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Tiler to Remote: Mercury/Force Outboards

Justin Orr

New member
Hello everyone! I recently bought a Stamas boat that has an aux outboard bracket for a 20-25hp motor. I found an awesome deal on a 1992 Force 25hp motor (matches my 150 I already have on the boat) and I would like to make it remote. I don't need steering, just electric start & throttle if possible. Or is this something that needs to be a tiller? In case my large motor fails, I would like to just drop the aux in the water and be able to get home.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Do you have a serial number or model number for the 25 horse.

Some Force motors were built (by Merc) with Chrysler parts. Others were built with discontinued Merc parts and some were a "franken-outboard" cobbled together with both.

The 25 horse was not produced in 1992.

The 25 Force was built in 1989 (all chrysler), 1996/97 (if it has a Merc style serial 0Exxxxxx) then it was cobbled together with very old Merc ignitions and chrysler blocks.

So depending on what you have you may or may not be able to find parts to convert it over to remote throttle/shift. These never came in an electric start version, so unless you really want to go with a custom retrofit you are going to have to live with the rope start.
 
Do you have a serial number or model number for the 25 horse.

Some Force motors were built (by Merc) with Chrysler parts. Others were built with discontinued Merc parts and some were a "franken-outboard" cobbled together with both.

The 25 horse was not produced in 1992.

The 25 Force was built in 1989 (all chrysler), 1996/97 (if it has a Merc style serial 0Exxxxxx) then it was cobbled together with very old Merc ignitions and chrysler blocks.

So depending on what you have you may or may not be able to find parts to convert it over to remote throttle/shift. These never came in an electric start version, so unless you really want to go with a custom retrofit you are going to have to live with the rope start.

No, I don't have the serial/model for it... I was just going off what the seller had said.

I could live with rope start being it's just a aux motor, but the throttle is a must have. I will see if I can find the model number from the guy and i'll get back to you with it. Is there a verison of that motor that I should get? My plan was to tie it into the main fuel tank (a 50 gal tank), is this possible or will I need a 2nd tank/pump?
 
If you run mixed gas in your main tank then you can tie in the second motor no problem. One of the easiest ways to do it, is to add a water separating filter with a single feed in dual feed out to the main fuel line (after market models can be had pretty cheap from places like west marine).

If you are one of the few running the auto blend oil injection on your 150, then you will have either remove the auto blend and mix in the main tank OR run your kicker off a portable.

At full throttle a 6 gallon tank would give you almost 3 continuous hours of operation with the 25, at half throttle you would be up over 7 hours...
 
If you run mixed gas in your main tank then you can tie in the second motor no problem. One of the easiest ways to do it, is to add a water separating filter with a single feed in dual feed out to the main fuel line (after market models can be had pretty cheap from places like west marine).

If you are one of the few running the auto blend oil injection on your 150, then you will have either remove the auto blend and mix in the main tank OR run your kicker off a portable.

At full throttle a 6 gallon tank would give you almost 3 continuous hours of operation with the 25, at half throttle you would be up over 7 hours...

Oh wow, I didn't know that you could go that long on a 25. Is there a certain brand/size kicker motor I should be looking at? I'
ve been just scouring craigslist for one that's in my price range ($2-600). My force is a mixed tank so atleast I'm lucky there! Also I currently have a single in and single out water separator, but I don't know how old the filter is. Should it be a good idea to replace it?
 
Depending on the size of your boat, it's weight and what speed you are looking for with the kicker, generally 10% of the horsepower of the main motor is sufficient for a kicker.

If you are just going to use it to make trolling speed (maybe 3 mph max) then you could go a little less - if you are looking to run it at "no wake" speed, maybe 7-10 mph then you would need a bit more.

Running a 150 as the main motor, if it's suitable for the boat it's on (not over/under horsed), then generally a 9.9 or 15 horse would be a "typical" kicker, especially if you opted for one of the "high thrust" or "bigfoot" models that have lower gear ratio's such that they push heavier weight (at lower speeds) without overtaxing the motor.

If you run offshore etc or in canals with speed restrictions and you are looking for either a motor that will "get you home" if the main one conks out or will push you through the canal with sufficient control under breezy conditions, then a 20 or even 30 or more horses may be required. It really depends on how "YOU" plan on using it.

As to brands, personally I would stay away from Force. They were an ok motor when they were in production, but now they are an orphan that nobody wants much to do with.

Force was born out of the (bankrupt) chrysler marine group. In it's dying days Bayliner boats bought out the outboard division and started building motors to package on their own boats (one stop, boat/motor/trailer pkg). The first models were "Force by Chrysler", then Bayliner formed "US Marine" and the motors became "Force by US Marine" (still pretty much a 100% chrysler engine). Anyhow, a couple years after US Marine was formed, the Brunswick Corporation bought out Bayliner.

Brunswick already owned Mercury so they gave the US Marine division to them. Merc didn't want to continue the Force line but it solved a couple of problems for them for a short time. They now had truck loads of old chrysler parts plus they had warehouses full of really old Merc parts. So they started slapping together motors and putting a Force sticker on them. As an example, in 1991 they made over 30 different versions of the 90 horse Force. When they ran out of 1970 something cases of carbs, they found a different carb and "made it fit", changed the model number and fired up the production line again (31 different sets of parts = nightmare to try and repair).

Anyhow, long story short - if you are looking for a kicker I would first figure out "how many horses is enough" and then look for an older Merc, OMC (Evinrude or Johnson) or Yamaha and stay away from the older orphans like Force, Suzuki and even Honda (which has crappy parts support for older motors).

As to the water sep filter. At the very least it should be changed every second year. Even if the motor doesn't get run that much you may think it's ok to leave it for a bit but in actuality the less the motor gets used the greater the risk of moisture in the tank = the sooner the filter media in the canister loads up.

They are relatively cheap for a new filter = cheap insurance against getting stuck and needing a tow ($$$) or damaging a cylinder and needing a new motor ($$$$$$).
 
Thanks for the help! That answered quite a few questions.

The main thing is I'll be in the intercoasta and a little bit of offshore fishing (maybe 2-3 miles out).

It's about 2400LB fully loaded (I believe). It's hard finding any info out about the boat which is a Stamas or the engine, which is a 92'. Any idea on where I can buy gaskets as my #2 carb is leaking fuel.

Also, does anyone know where I can get parts for a US Marine throttle? The key is broke off and I can't use the ''primer'' with the key, i can only turn it (Previous owner said to push key in, then turn to start engine. If it's cold, I have to take cover off and manually push ''primer'' while starting to get the motor to run. Once warm, no prime is needed.

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1992 was a change over year for the 150 models - some were built as older chrysler models and some as "mercish" models - but regardless they both used old Tillotson carbs.

A Merc dealer has access to a limited amount of replacement parts for them (most gaskets and jets are still available, but they don't have enough parts to offer a complete repair kit anymore - it's a little hit/miss depending on what exactly you need). Best bet is to get to a Merc dealer with your model number and see what is still available.

As to the US Marine control, they are absolutely not in production anymore and I am not aware of any (kit) to adapt say a Merc control for use on a Force (Force controls work "backwards" compared to just about all the other mfg's - unless I have it backwards (probably :) Force shifters "pull" on the cable to increase throttle while everyone else "pushes" the cable.

A US Marine shifter can be adapted to work with Merc, Yamaha etc (as far as the cable throw and anchor point goes - probably since Bayliner originally offered other mfg's motors as an upgrade) but I am not aware if say a Merc shifter can be changed to push instead of pull the cable (never tried to convert one - so might be possible).

Alternately, you can look on Ebay for a used, functional shifter/control. Force was fairly prolific and they are now of the age where they are going from being functional motors, to paperweights, so there are used parts out there.

I do occasionally work on them and have found it pretty easy to obtain ignition parts and cast parts from Ebay - it's the carbs which are the &&()( to try and find parts for if Merc doesn't have what you are after.
 
Sorry, I was thinking "too deep", beside guy's idea you could also simply replace the keyswitch - I have done that on other control units with fairly generic ones from any marine place.

You would simply require the version with the "push to choke" on the keyswitch...
 
Sorry, I was thinking "too deep", beside guy's idea you could also simply replace the keyswitch - I have done that on other control units with fairly generic ones from any marine place.

You would simply require the version with the "push to choke" on the keyswitch...

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=50366&subdeptNum=50367&classNum=61535

So something like this is what I need right?

Also, where would I find the model/serial on my motor? I looked all over it tonight and I couldn't find it anywhere.
 
Yes, that keyswitch should work fine.

The model number should be on a plate "under the hood" OR on the bracket that attaches the motor to the transom.

Take off the upper cowl (hood). I believe it's on a plate on the right side of the motor (if you are facing the prop end of things) in front of the ignition boxes (blue boxes) if it has the chrysler type model number (eg. 1992-C).

If it has a Merc style serial there is a small sticker on the motor bracket and the serial would look something like 0E12345...
 
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