Logo
FULL SITE MENU

That old BF225 O2 issue!

C

Courageous351

Member
Hi guys, am the lucky owner of one of these motors. We had the warranty replacement performed here in Spain but it didn't include the manifolds. As far as I know it included sensor and ECU.

Since sensors are lasting little over a year I am thinking of getting the local tech to replace the manifold/s.

1) Is it both manifolds or just one?
2) Does anyone know the part number of the new ones?
3) Honda parts sites seem to want me to put in the serial number - do the manifolds vary or are they all the same for that model?
4) Sensor prices seem to vary massively! Anywhere from around $190 down to like $25! What's the catch? Do these cheap ones work? Where to go for the best functioning ones?

Sorry for so many questions but can't seem to find definitive answers for all on a search. Thanks in advance
 
The exhaust pipes were re-engineered and installed somewhere around 2007, starting with BAGJ 1500325 and BAHJ 1500023.

Send an e-mail to me at [email protected] and I will return service bulletin #56 and #70 which are relevant to your problem. SB #56 gives you the step by step procedure for changing out the exhaust tubes and gives the part numbers you will need. The kit costs a little over $100 in the US from Boats.net.

The cheap HO2 sensors are Chinese knock-offs and generally do not work well, if at all, and don't last. OEM HO2 is $173.00 on Boats.net. See:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...5A3 XA/EXHAUST MANIFOLD THERMOSTAT/parts.html

When fixed correctly, these HO2 sensors should last a long time. I have over 2000 hours on my late model 2007 and it still has the original HO2 sensor.
 
Brilliant Chawk, thanks for that. Email on the way. When you say 2000 hours is that with a 2007 engine or newer (or modified exhaust). I suppose to some extent that will depend on the port height above the water of course as well. Is yours fairly high? Our warrantly replacement lasted just over a year - OEM of course but old manifold arrangement. Thanks for coming in on this.
 
Sent the two service bulletins via e-mail.

The engine is an original BF 2007, but the SN indicates it had the modified exhaust tubes factory installed. Exhaust port height is very important. My exhaust ports are only about 7 inches above the water line. Minimum according to SB #56 is 5.9 inches.

I think I haven't had a problem because of the way I operate. Boat is on a lift, and I start the engine while lowering it into the water as soon as the water gets above the cavitation plate. While fishing, I mostly troll, especially in heavy seas, so the engine is always running which puts positive pressure in the exhaust tubes and prevents and significant water incursion. If I have to dock the boat for any significant amount of time, or in rough water, I raise the engine so the leg is out of the water.
 
That's great thanks Chawk. Service bulletins received thank you - they are very informative aren't they? I just checked my exhaust port and she sits about the same as yours at 7". If I was the only user of the boat I would adopt your technique but we are a diving company and as such the client takes the boat without us supplying a skipper. I have seen some sights with these so called "experienced skippers". It makes my toes curl watching them charge into our mooring sometimes....... Getting them to adopt such a procedure would be impossible. I have tried to ask them to decelerate in a turn to prevent the wash catching up but waste my time there too! Well I think you've given me a wealth of data to work on but I have one last question for you if you don't mind:

Have you ever tried to clean an HO2? I have an ultrasonic bath and was just wondering........ ;)
 
Personally, I've never had to clean one. My understanding is that the problem with cleaning them is that the critical ceramic parts are inside the steel cover on the bottom, and that only has very small holes for access. They get fowled from carbon that's being layered on the sensors at 600 F and above. Not sure your ultrasonic bath can get in there and do its job. No particular reason for not trying it, but I'd have a spare standing by in case it doesn't work or it get's fowled up.

Check around on the Internet. Just be cautious, there's a lot of bad info bouncing around out there.

I do have a write-up on testing them. I think it's from Auto Zone. Send another e-mail if you want the procedure that I've downloaded.
 
Thanks Chawk, may give it a go. You're dead right about that advice on the internet. I once had a guy tell me the best thing to remove staining on stainless steel was wire wool. I tried it on a small patch and of course it was horrible. I went back at him on the forum and his reply? "Well not all advice is good advice". Nice eh? May be a while before I try this since the sensor is troublesome but when I do I will post back here.
 
In order to keep the O2 sensors clean, it was recommended to us to run the engines above 5000rpm for a minute or two at the end of the day. Since we adopted that policy the engines do seem to run/start better and we no longer get O2 fault codes. Courageous351, you may not want want to encourage those "experienced skippers" to open her up, but if someone you trust could do that periodically it may help you get more life from your sensors. It seems to have worked for us.
 
20fish - thanks for that advice. Were you getting issues with salt water getting in then? If so I assume that was pre-mod? I am rather hoping post mod like Chawk says the issue goes away without having to rev up like that.
 
I agree with 20fish on revving up the engine at the end of the day in order to clean out the carbon and keep everything properly seated. After fishing, I return to my pier at the max rpm's that conditions will allow. If flat water, I'll push the engine to WOT, which is now 5900 rpm's for my setup.

Couragous351 - have you checked your engine SN's against those listed on SB #56? Does the SB apply to your engines? If not, take a close look at SB #70.
 
Chawk we already got the ECM and HO2 changed out under warranty so I guess we are implicated. Will have to check s/n soon any way. Having only got just over a year out of that warranty replacement HO2 we will definitely have to go for the change in pipes......... Thanks!
 
Do the newer engines have this same problem? I have 2 honda 225s.. they are about 2 years old (one a little more than 2 years the other a little less). I had to replace the o2 sensor on the starboard engine (BAHJ-1800104) in May, when it was about a year old and now I just started getting the check engine light again - seems to be the o2 sensor again. I had to replace the o2 sensor in the port engine (BAGJ-1801268) 2 months ago. These things are getting expensive.
I rarely run them at full speed, and the engine do sit low on my 27' worldcat te. I didn't measure the height - will next time I go out. I do go out in rough water and drift a lot.
 
when coming off plane or loading or unloading trim motors up to ensure exhaust ports aren't underwater helped me a lot w my old 225
 
The new exhaust pipes were installed on all 200's and 225's starting sometime around the middle of 2007 - BAGJ 1500325 forward and BAHJ 1500022 forward.

Service bulletin 70 also addresses failing HO2 issues on some engines for BAGJ through 1509999 and BAHJ through 1509999. If you need a copy send an e-mail to me at [email protected].

There is also a SB #71 that addresses an issue with the ECM not detecting a failed HO2 sensor, but I don't think that applies to you.

Beyond that I don't know of any other SB's concerning the HO2 sensor. It's possible that there is, but I don't know about it.
 
Back
Top