Trying to keep this short..My son borrowed my Carolina skiff and said the motor was running good pumping water good he got in some shallow water and set the temp alarm off. He got in clean water and the water was pumping clear but the temp alarm stayed on and obvious the engine was hot to the touch. We got the boat home and put the muffs on after the engine was cold as a cucumber and started it up. As soon as she fired up the temp light and buzzer was on. She was pumping good clean cold garden hose water and the engine is cool to the touch. ( No thermostat installed) Back flushed with cool water and upon starting the same thing.. Pumping good cool water, engine cool to the touch. But temp alarm screaming. Could that indicates a blockage in the alarm area of the temp sensor ?, BUT....why is the alarm triggering as soon as she starts?? Did the sensor burn up?? Its a 2 wire sensor how would i test that ??
Back up a little. last year i did a tune up and adjusted all the carb and idle settings using a manual. After all of that was tuned by ear i adjusted the bolt under the flywheel (spark advance screw) to get the idle rpms to spec as per manual. But set to what my tach was reading. My son primarily uses the boat and had told me the idle seem higher lately and when the throttle opened up it would go as high as 7000rpm on the tack or higher but the sound of the engine didn't seem that high. Of course the idle rpm was higher also by the tach but not by ear. So i tried turning the spark advance screw to adjust the idle rpm some but no matter how much i turned it CW or CCW i got no change in idle. Actually could back the screw all the way out with no change in the idle rpm. Would the timer base assembly have any thing to do with this ?? Could the timing have to do with the temp alarm and block getting hot even when it was pumping good clean cold water ??
To end my problems. Running on muffs and trouble shooting, the pump decided to stop completely...Was my over heating problem a result of a weak pump that i couldn't tell by eye that was about to go anyway? and just wasn't enough psi to travel through out the block ?
First plan of attack is to change the water pump, pull the head gasket and exhaust gasket and try to flush and blow out the water journals.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Back up a little. last year i did a tune up and adjusted all the carb and idle settings using a manual. After all of that was tuned by ear i adjusted the bolt under the flywheel (spark advance screw) to get the idle rpms to spec as per manual. But set to what my tach was reading. My son primarily uses the boat and had told me the idle seem higher lately and when the throttle opened up it would go as high as 7000rpm on the tack or higher but the sound of the engine didn't seem that high. Of course the idle rpm was higher also by the tach but not by ear. So i tried turning the spark advance screw to adjust the idle rpm some but no matter how much i turned it CW or CCW i got no change in idle. Actually could back the screw all the way out with no change in the idle rpm. Would the timer base assembly have any thing to do with this ?? Could the timing have to do with the temp alarm and block getting hot even when it was pumping good clean cold water ??
To end my problems. Running on muffs and trouble shooting, the pump decided to stop completely...Was my over heating problem a result of a weak pump that i couldn't tell by eye that was about to go anyway? and just wasn't enough psi to travel through out the block ?
First plan of attack is to change the water pump, pull the head gasket and exhaust gasket and try to flush and blow out the water journals.
Thanks in advance for any info.