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Replacing powerpack cdi and trim motor problem

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craigytech

New member
Hi I bought this 70hp force mercury recently.

Was told it just needed a powerpack replacement which I got but having some problems wiring up.

There are 2 yellow and black wires I think for ignition on the new powerpack and the old one only had one

Also the trim motor spins but doesn't seem to raise engine. I took apart the top of the motor casing and when I tried to screw it back in it cracked at the top. I put the cap back together with epoxy glue praying it will fix it. Is there a way the motor is meant to fit back in? I must have screwed it when it wasn't in the right place?

Attached pictures if anyone able to help.

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I know that at the ignition switch, has a yellow/black wire that supplies power to the ignition system. I'm pretty sure the top of the motor has a splined shaft that goes into the pump. You have to make sure the splines line up with the splines inside of the pump that the motor attaches to. If you can supply more info on the motor (year, model number, serial number.....), I'm sure someone here will be able to supply you with a wiring diagram and other information. I think your epoxy job might be fine. If the motor spins when you try to raise/lower the motor, you probably need fluid. If the hydraulic cylinder is full, then the seals are bad and not allowing the pump to build pressure. I think we need to get the motor running first.
 
They are not yellow/black wires. They are Black/Yellow (yellow stripe)
These are for kill switches -- one is typically from the throttle/ignition control (emergency kill switch).

The other is for a tilt kill switch bolted onto the engine (Google mercury outboard tilt kill switch)
It typically mounts next to the powerpak to kill the spark when the engine is tilted.
One lead goes to the box, one to ground.
Leave both kill switch wires OFF when testing the box. If it works, then connect them (so you are not mislead by a bad kill switch/no spark.)
Some take off the switch on the engine when the cowl is off (or if the switch goes bad.)
 
They are Black/Yellow(stripe) not Yellow/Black and are from kill switches.
Typically, one is from the throttle control (emergency kill switch)

There may be another from a tilt kill switch
mounted to the engine next to the powerpack to kill the spark when the engine is tilted.
One lead from the tilt kill goes to the box (center terminal,) the other to ground.
Sometimes the tilt kill switch is removed (goes bad and not replaced.) Leave the kills disconnected until you verify the spark so that a faulty kill switch doesn't confuse the troubleshooting.
 
K_Mann said:
They are Black/Yellow(stripe) not Yellow/Black and are from kill switches.
Typically, one is from the throttle control (emergency kill switch)

There may be another from a tilt kill switch
mounted to the engine next to the powerpack to kill the spark when the engine is tilted.
One lead from the tilt kill goes to the box (center terminal,) the other to ground.
Sometimes the tilt kill switch is removed (goes bad and not replaced.) Leave the kills disconnected until you verify the spark so that a faulty kill switch doesn't confuse the troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
Thank you so the other yellow black goes to ground?
 
Do not heed the previous posting as motor do not have this part. Both the blk/yell tie to blk/yell from control harness. Sometimes there is a supplied Y harness to do this.
 
As I said your engine might not have the tilt kill switch, which the replacement box has the wire for.
Two kill wires are meant for two kill switches. Is this a generic replacement box or original equipment, ie Mercury part?
What is your engine serial number?
Part number of the original box?
Part number of the replacement box, and did it come with instructions?
With those I can probably find the correct schematic for you.

If you ground the wire it will kill the spark. As I said - they both come off the same terminal in the box, and NO they both do not need to go to the harness kill wire, that would be redundant (although it would not hurt anything to do that.) Alternately you could tape or wire nut off the end and just zip tie it from flopping around.

Below is the second (tilt) kill switch for the second wire, but this is on a 1985 75 Merc.
 
@craigytech

If you go back to the parts listing and look at the picture of the CDI box vs. the OEM or Sierra you will see that it is simply ‘more generic.’ For cost saving aftermarket parts are oftentimes produced to fit many models or configurations or options. Perhaps there’s an engine it also fits that has the second kill switch I described or that uses a female rather than male bullet connector.

As an aside had you tested the old box, stator, etc.? I paid a tech 125$ to diagnose a no-spark on the 75 merc and he said the box was bad. Well, we replaced it and, no, it isn’t the box. So you can’t always go by what someone tells you is good or bad. Now we are testing everything ourselves and need to order or borrow a DVA to check the stator and trigger.
 
If that is a CDI Electronics replacement the extra blk/yel wire is for a rev limiter if equipped, if not tie both to the blk/yel wire from main harness
 
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