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Question for the pros about trailering my 1992 Yamaha 40 MSHQ 2 stroke

D

Douglasdzaster

Member
I got approached the other day at the boat ramp. A gentleman wanted to help me by telling me what I was doing wrong. The motor is on a 16 foot extra wide and deep flat bottom.
When I first got it I had several questions and y’all’s help really bailed me out and got it going. Someone even linked me to an awesome service manual for the motor. Thanks again by the way. After using the boat for a while (this all started 2021). I removed the floor to see if it needed cleaned up and found 3/4” treated plywood and corrosion. So I spent a lot of time getting rid of the corrosion. Built a new floor and decided to just rebuild the boat the way I wanted it. Finally to a stopping point where I can use it for a while before tackling the front deck and painting it.
Anyway the Yamaha is running great. Here’s how I trailer it. At first left the motor down vertical and just went. But I noticed the motor jiggling around and a little bouncing I didn’t like.
We have one road here actually called The Hemorrhoid. Because of how rough it is.
I loaded my boat and began getting it ready for the road. I lift the motor just enough to get a transom saver under it so the angle is not to great then I use a small ratchet strap going from the trailer around the outboard above the cavitation plate and tighten it enough do the motor doesn’t bounce out and fall. Not using a bungee cord because it’s manual tilt.
This gentleman walked over and ask if it was my first boat. I replied no I have had several. A fish and sky then a few bass boats. But that was 20 years ago and this is my first aluminum boat.
He proceeded to inform me that I was messing up my outboard by not leaving it vertical and then ask if I put it in gear while trailering to keep the prop from spinning. I said I never move the gear lever (on the side of the motor/Tiller steer) while the motor isn’t running. Again he said I’m wearing out bearings and seals by letting the prop stay in neutral.
Then my son begins agreeing with him who has never owned a boat.
I started researching online and find there’s actually a lot of conflict between people about both subjects. I noticed Mercury says to put theirs in gear according to a lot of Merc owners its in the manual. Then I noticed people saying Yamaha says to leave the outboard vertical.
I go down rough roads and after noticing the outboard moving around so much I found a couple of cracks forming on top of the transom. I went and had them welded started Douglas what I’m doing and haven’t seen any more problems. So now I’m not letting it go with my son until I see if this guy was right.
I know I’ll get the correct answer on here.
Thanks for reading my story.
:Douglas
 
I've always been told to keep the motor as vertical as possible. Less strain on the transom the closer you can get to straight up and down. I've never heard of putting in gear while trailering. The foot is full of lubricant, so I don't see why "free wheeling" is doing it any harm. Did you ask the guy how many million revolutions those bearings are good for? I usually appreciate someone sharing their KNOWLEDGE with me, but this guy is simply stating his OPINION. Did this guy even have a boat, or was he fishing off the dock right next to the "NO FISHING FROM DOCK" sign and telling all the boaters what they were doing wrong?
 
One issue with the motor being vertical…ground clearance. This can result in the skeg being very close or hitting the ground when going over uneven terrain such as a driveway or dip at a boat launch. There is no way I would ever trailer my Volvo penta I/O in the Dian position.
i purchased a 15hp motor that the owner snapped the pivot assembly clean off, when he forgot about a door sill while backing his boat into a barn with the motor vertical.
vertical does result in less strain on the transom, tilted up creates a moment arm, the transom takes the force of every bump. The heavier the motor, the greater the force.
Also, on smaller motors, the tilt lock is not designed to handle bumpy road loads, and/or it may become disengaged, dropping the motor.
Those issues are addressed by a transom saver. Properly used there is nothing wrong with trailering with the motor “up”.
 
Oldsaltydog said:
I've always been told to keep the motor as vertical as possible. Less strain on the transom the closer you can get to straight up and down. I've never heard of putting in gear while trailering. The foot is full of lubricant, so I don't see why "free wheeling" is doing it any harm. Did you ask the guy how many million revolutions those bearings are good for? I usually appreciate someone sharing their KNOWLEDGE with me, but this guy is simply stating his OPINION. Did this guy even have a boat, or was he fishing off the dock right next to the "NO FISHING FROM DOCK" sign and telling all the boaters what they were doing wrong?
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😂 he had an old pontoon boat. I think it’s rude anyway to go up to a stranger at a boat lunch and start telling him what he’s doing wrong unless they are ask for help. I think he was trying to imp his girlfriend/wife that was there.
He was also blocking the exit lane rather than park in the designated sections for getting your boat road ready. As far as for putting it in gear it’s a 1992 outboard I don’t think neutral will harm it. Just for giggles I did some research and Mercury actually recommends putting some of there’s in gear. Mines a Yamaha and Yamaha says to never shift will motor is not running.
I don’t tilt mine up high and the transom saver is attached to the trailer And I use a small ratchet strap attached to the trailer to go around the motor just under the anti cavitation plate to put just enough pressure to hold it in the saver. When I first got the boat it was a project. After I got it running I would take it to a small near by lake to test and work on it. The first couple of trips down the rough roads and kept seeing the outboard bounce a lot and it’s a 40 hp on a 16’ extra wide flat bottom. I also had noticed the aluminum cracking on top of the transom on both side of the motor.
I got the transom saver and had the cracks weldEd. And no more issues.
 
Edchris177 said:
One issue with the motor being vertical…ground clearance. This can result in the skeg being very close or hitting the ground when going over uneven terrain such as a driveway or dip at a boat launch. There is no way I would ever trailer my Volvo penta I/O in the Dian position.
i purchased a 15hp motor that the owner snapped the pivot assembly clean off, when he forgot about a door sill while backing his boat into a barn with the motor vertical.
vertical does result in less strain on the transom, tilted up creates a moment arm, the transom takes the force of every bump. The heavier the motor, the greater the force.
Also, on smaller motors, the tilt lock is not designed to handle bumpy road loads, and/or it may become disengaged, dropping the motor.
Those issues are addressed by a transom saver. Properly used there is nothing wrong with trailering with the motor “up”.
Click to expand...
Mine is a 40 hp Yamaha a 1992. Got the boat for a project. First I noticed two cracks in the aluminum on top of the transom one on each side. And the motor bouncing pretty bad on our rough roads getting to the ramps. I got a small transom saver then attached it to the trailer and have the motor tilted very little. Had someone weld those cracks and I’m through rebuilding the boat pretty much anyway. I’ve put 900 plus miles on the trailer according to my truck. And no issues at al. The welds still look great and no new damage. The motor doesn’t bounce and turn back and forth. And like you mentioned sir. I don’t have to worry about dragging the lower unit. The very tip of the scab is gone I bet from some previous owner dragging it on something.
 
“Mines a Yamaha and Yamaha says to never shift will motor is not running.”
Many of the Evinruse/Johnson’s also state that. There is nothing wrong with shifting a stopped motor, AS LONG AS YOU DONT USE FORCE. Things might not be quite aligned in the gearcase, if you force it,you will break something. Simply turn the prop or flywheel a bit, or pull the starter cord, whatever is easier. That will turn the driveshaft, parts will align, & it will shift the same as if running.
 
I think you've got all your bases covered. Next time you see Pontoon guy, tell him "there's a jet skiier over there that's in need of some good advice!".
 
I was going to ask him just how long has he been a Yamaha technician.
But I like the idea of aiming him at some jet fleas.
I had just finished drifting a big flat where two of them come by so far away i could barely tell what they where. But there music was so loud it sounded like it was in my boat.
 
It is a good idea to put an outboard in gear on the trailer.----Saves wear on the rubber seals.----Just turn the prop while shifting.
 
racerone said:
It is a good idea to put an outboard in gear on the trailer.----Saves wear on the rubber seals.----Just turn the prop while shifting.
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You may not remember but you’re one of the gentlemen that helped me save the carburetors on this same outboard 1992 Yamaha 40 MSHQ. They where really a mess.
It was a long thread and y’all took me through every problem I encountered.
Now I’m going to have to trailer it in gear.
If or I should say when I have to replace the seals I’ll be back on here screaming for help again since it’s new territory for me.
Thank you for the help sir.
 
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