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Question about outboard water pump rebuild

R

RIBS

New member
Hi all, new guy here...
I am rebuilding the water pump in my Mercury 2006 50 HP 4 Stroke Bigfoot outboard...
when I disassembled it appears I have red thread locker? On most of the bolts. I thought anti-seize was the correct coating for threads. (Water pump and lower unit attachment bolts). What’s appropriate for reassembly? Thread locker or anti seize?
thanks!
 
Manuals I have on Merc engines just love to list Red (not to be removed) Locktite or such product. I have no idea as to why they use Red over Blue (removable) when they (should) know well and good that the engine is going to be serviced and the fasteners, at some point in time, are going to be removed....I have been using Blue in industry, around my farm, in my watercraft and all sorts of applications and NEVER have I had a fastener back out with it.

Blue in itself is also an anti-corrosion agent as it seals the threads and no air, no O2, hence no corrosion...BTDT on that too. On where I use or would recommend thread anti-seize it would be for spark plug threads and I use it religiously....as do I'd bet some Ford truck owners as I read Ford had a certain engine that had serious sparkplug seizure problems...like I read, plugs breaking before releasing.
 
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Yeah: the Triton V-8 and V-10s. Class action lawsuit against them. I used it to get the plugs in mine changed.

Jeff
 
I use anti seize on almost everything. Those bolts will likely never work loose. To tell you the truth, I rebuild chainsaws.....they are loaded with Loctite. I clean it off and use anti seize, and nothing ever strips or works loose.......and you all know how much a chainsaw vibrates. Been doing this for over 40 years, even before anti-seize became popular.
Jeff, Texas.....those Triton's are crazy.....plugs at the bottom of that small vertical bore, eh?......and a rubber boot with intention to keep out moisture and chloride. Just talked with a guy that the Ford dealer charged him $900 to change the spark plug. You gotta open the bore, blow and/or dig out crap. Soak with fresh acetone/ATF mix for up to 24 hours. Blow out again using a rag to collect debris and juice. Then you stand a chance of success. I know, got 2 of them, good motors, however. The heater core is another engineering masterpiece.........here's how they did it.......they set a heater core on the table, then built a truck around it!
Sorry, got off track. I recommend nickel anti- seize over the copper. Nickel has superior properties around moisture, salts, and even heat, when compared to the copper.
 
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On stainless steel fasteners anti-seize should be used to prevent the nuts from binding, I use it on all of them, waterpumps, and powerhead bolts etc. I only use Loctite on fasteners that are not Nylock and don't have to be removed frequently.
 
Use Mercury Perfect Seal on all bolts and gasket surfaces (with the gasket) I live in Florida saltwater world. It will not allow salt to invaide the threads or mating surfaces.
 
Yes I am not too familiar with saltwater use. Everything we have up here is "whistle clean"......I get spooked with saltwater and aluminum. I see the affects of salt and chloride on cars, trucks, trailers, cement....however. Worked on big ships...ocean-going vessels...we use anti seize by the gallons.
 
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