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Prop for Evinrude Intruder 150

That's a 14.5" prop with a 22 degree pitch. You just had your numbers backwards. What are you trying to achieve with a new prop? What is your WOT RPM's an speed with the prop you have now? That's a lot of pitch, are you struggling to get on plane?
 
Oldsaltydog said:
That's a 14.5" prop with a 22 degree pitch. You just had your numbers backwards. What are you trying to achieve with a new prop? What is your WOT RPM's an speed with the prop you have now? That's a lot of pitch, are you struggling to get on plane?
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Ahhhh, my fault. Just shows my lack of boat knowledge.
It is just for testing. The boat gets on plane really quickly. I am running rt at 40 mph @ 5100 rpms. If i go any higher rpm wise, the motor cuts in and out! So my thought is, a stronger prop, faster speed @ lower rpms!
 
Chinatown317 said:
Ahhhh, my fault. Just shows my lack of boat knowledge.
It is just for testing. The boat gets on plane really quickly. I am running rt at 40 mph @ 5100 rpms. If i go any higher rpm wise, the motor cuts in and out! So my thought is, a stronger prop, faster speed @ lower rpms!
Click to expand...
Okay, now we're getting somewhere. What do you mean by "If i go any higher rpm wise, the motor cuts in and out!"? Before you go buying parts and swapping props you really need to fight the root cause of the issue then fix that specific problem.

Please describe exactly what happens when "the motor cuts in and out" after you increase throttle beyond 5100RPM.
Does the engine bog or 'hunt' for RPM?
Does the engine misfire (sputter)?
Does the engine over-rev?

These are all very different issues that each go down different troubleshooting paths. If the engine bogs or hunts at high RPM you're probably looking at a fuel delivery issue. If it misfires then it's an ignition system issue. If it over-revs, then drops, then revs again you could simply be looking a cavitation issue and altering the engine setup on the transom will solve the problem. A failing prop hub can also cause problems.

At 5100 RPM you're 400RPM short of max WOT rating for this engine. When changing props the general rule is each 1" change in PITCH results in a 200RPM difference. You would need to go DOWN to a 19P to increase your WOT RPM to achieve max operating range. Unless you have this engine on a really big boat, or a very inefficient hull I'd say that's unlikely. In most applications a 24P and sometimes 22P is an ideal prop for these engines. Do a little more troubleshooting and document exactly what's happening then report back here. It's also helpful if you can post a video showing the problem.

KJ
 
kevinj said:
Okay, now we're getting somewhere. What do you mean by "If i go any higher rpm wise, the motor cuts in and out!"? Before you go buying parts and swapping props you really need to fight the root cause of the issue then fix that specific problem.

Please describe exactly what happens when "the motor cuts in and out" after you increase throttle beyond 5100RPM.
Does the engine bog or 'hunt' for RPM?
Does the engine misfire (sputter)?
Does the engine over-rev?

These are all very different issues that each go down different troubleshooting paths. If the engine bogs or hunts at high RPM you're probably looking at a fuel delivery issue. If it misfires then it's an ignition system issue. If it over-revs, then drops, then revs again you could simply be looking a cavitation issue and altering the engine setup on the transom will solve the problem. A failing prop hub can also cause problems.

At 5100 RPM you're 400RPM short of max WOT rating for this engine. When changing props the general rule is each 1" change in PITCH results in a 200RPM difference. You would need to go DOWN to a 19P to increase your WOT RPM to achieve max operating range. Unless you have this engine on a really big boat, or a very inefficient hull I'd say that's unlikely. In most applications a 24P and sometimes 22P is an ideal prop for these engines. Do a little more troubleshooting and document exactly what's happening then report back here. It's also helpful if you can post a video showing the problem.

KJ
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Kevinj and racerone,
Here is the short version of this..... 88 bumble bee 178v. 1991 150 intruder motor.
Guy i bought the boat from said he threw this motor on the boat to sell it. Knowing that, first thing i done was adjust the motor up and down so the boat would get on plane. Before any motor attention, the first few trips out w it, top speed 49 mph @ about 5500 rpm. Then it started cutting out at 5k rpm. Replaced and or rebuilt everything fuel wise, 1 system at a time w many test runs in between with no changes.... roughly 36-38 mph @ 5000-5100 rpm
Then changed plugs n wires, no change in performance. Swapped out power pack, ran much worse. Possibly a bad power pack that i tried.
So, i am down to the stator and OIS system, which i have heard and studied about, doesnt really have anything to do w top end speed.
I am searching for the probably small simple issue, just dont know where else to look.

Thanks for anymore input.
 
Chinatown317 said:
Kevinj and racerone,
Here is the short version of this..... 88 bumble bee 178v. 1991 150 intruder motor.
Guy i bought the boat from said he threw this motor on the boat to sell it. Knowing that, first thing i done was adjust the motor up and down so the boat would get on plane. Before any motor attention, the first few trips out w it, top speed 49 mph @ about 5500 rpm. Then it started cutting out at 5k rpm. Replaced and or rebuilt everything fuel wise, 1 system at a time w many test runs in between with no changes.... roughly 36-38 mph @ 5000-5100 rpm
Then changed plugs n wires, no change in performance. Swapped out power pack, ran much worse. Possibly a bad power pack that i tried.
So, i am down to the stator and OIS system, which i have heard and studied about, doesnt really have anything to do w top end speed.
I am searching for the probably small simple issue, just dont know where else to look.

Thanks for anymore input.
Click to expand...
And i have a video of the tach when it cuts in n out, but i cant post it here for some reason
 
That boat is 17' 6" and 900lbs dry.....it should absolutely fly with a 150 on the back. My Ranger is 18' 9" and well over 1500lbs with batteries, full fuel, passengers, and tournament load. I can comfortably hit 55MPH @ 5,500 RPM with my '96 Intruder 150 running a Raker 14.5 x 24 prop.

If you're down over 500RPM and 10MPH you possibly have an ignition component failing under load. Just to cover bases, go through the OIS2000 V6 Troubleshooting Guide and make sure all your ignition components measure within spec. You may need to check it cold, then run the engine and check it when hot if you have a component failing after heat soaking. Confirm spark on each cylinder and pull the spark plugs to observe the color on them. Pay special attention to the #1 cylinder (starboard top) as the early 60 degree V6 blocks had issues with water intrusion in that cylinder.

Out of curiosity have to cleaned the optical sensor? It could be as simple as a piece of crud giving you bad data at high RPM and creating timing issues. However, since the 'motor was just thrown on to sell the boat' you really want to test compression and give the engine a complete once over.
 
kevinj said:
That boat is 17' 6" and 900lbs dry.....it should absolutely fly with a 150 on the back. My Ranger is 18' 9" and well over 1500lbs with batteries, full fuel, passengers, and tournament load. I can comfortably hit 55MPH @ 5,500 RPM with my '96 Intruder 150 running a Raker 14.5 x 24 prop.

If you're down over 500RPM and 10MPH you possibly have an ignition component failing under load. Just to cover bases, go through the OIS2000 V6 Troubleshooting Guide and make sure all your ignition components measure within spec. You may need to check it cold, then run the engine and check it when hot if you have a component failing after heat soaking. Confirm spark on each cylinder and pull the spark plugs to observe the color on them. Pay special attention to the #1 cylinder (starboard top) as the early 60 degree V6 blocks had issues with water intrusion in that cylinder.

Out of curiosity have to cleaned the optical sensor? It could be as simple as a piece of crud giving you bad data at high RPM and creating timing issues. However, since the 'motor was just thrown on to sell the boat' you really want to test compression and give the engine a complete once over.
Click to expand...
Kevinj,
I will look thru the troubleshooting guide. Thanks
And i just cleaned checked the optical sensor. Two reflective eyes, seemed to be free and clear. Sprayed them w electrical cleaner.

Question to you, how does your boat come out the hole w the 24 raker?
 
You only clean eyes with isopropyl alcohol as other cleaners can fog the plastic lens leading to weird ignition hicups

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