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Preventing rusted bolts

T

tedm2

Contributing Member
After having to drill out 7 bolts from an engine/drive swap out, I am looking for the best way to prevent bolts from corroding in their housings. Is there any problem with wrapping the threads and the entire bolt shaft with teflon tape. I would think that this would prevent the different types of metal from reacting with eachother thus prohibiting corrosion. It should also act as a mild thread locker (at least it works that way with plumbing fittings).
Any thoughts or other suggestions?
 
Just apply a generous coat of Perfect Seal (Quicksilver product) or equivalent (Loctite Gasket Sealant, Permatex #2, OMC Gasket Sealing compound, etc) to bolt threads and shanks. Cheap and very effective.
 
Engine or Out Drive related bolt threads?

There is a special Marine version of Anti-Sieze that works well in a wet environment. It contains no condcutive materials.

If dry location... such as engine components, the automotive version of this can be used.

.
 
emac said:
for the same reason its also good to treat the threads of your sparkplugs when installing
Click to expand...
You know..... I never bring this up because some will Foo Foo you on this idea. But I've read many a thread whereby someone has rounded the hex, or has broken off a spark plug because the threads are siezed.
The thread title is usually; "Help...Broken spark plug.... how to I get it out?"

I've been using the Never-Sieze for over 40 years, and I have used a very light coating on some spark plugs before! Seems to work well if you understand fastener torque.

Another one that used to get you Foo Foo comments, was to lubricate wheel lug nuts.
Years ago, not many would do this.... some would even say "Don't".
Now days, watch what the tire shops will do when they change a wheel!

An FYI.... large equipment manufacturing designers/engineers, will often offer two torque specs for certain threads.... one for dry threads.... one for lubricated threads.

OK... off my soap box... carry on! :)
 
RicardoMarine said:
You know..... I never bring this up because some will Foo Foo you on this idea. But I've read many a thread whereby someone has rounded the hex, or has broken off a spark plug because the threads are siezed.
The thread title is usually; "Help...Broken spark plug.... how to I get it out?"

I've been using the Never-Sieze for over 40 years, and I have used a very light coating on some spark plugs before! Seems to work well if you understand fastener torque.

Another one that used to get you Foo Foo comments, was to lubricate wheel lug nuts.
Years ago, not many would do this.... some would even say "Don't".
Now days, watch what the tire shops will do when they change a wheel!

An FYI.... large equipment manufacturing designers/engineers, will often offer two torque specs for certain threads.... one for dry threads.... one for lubricated threads.

OK... off my soap box... carry on! :)
Click to expand...

Now's my turn to stand on the soapbox :D

I have been using never-seize for years on spark plugs, and other than it is a bit messy I like it. It makes the removal of spark plugs much easier. I normally use Loctite Silver Grade.

One note for the ones running 4 bangers with OHC: try not to use copper-based anti-seize. Copper and aluminum do not mix well.

Regarding lug nuts, I don't see anything wrong with oiling them (or the studs or bolts) as long as the "wet" torques are applied when tightening them instead of the dry torques.
 
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