Power to tan temp switch wires????

[SandCruiser]

I’ve been struggling with a bogging 1992 155 90* cross flow after it overheated. It’s doing exactly how it would in SLOW mode. I know other ignition components can do the same but today I tested just to see and I 100% have 12.2 V/DC going to all tan wires for temp switches as well as disconnected VRO tan wires. So the tan terminal to the PP had 12.2 V/DC too. Is this the same as SLOW and/or cause bogging under load?

Also, I’m super confused because grounding the tan wires do not arc and do activate the warning horn.

 

[racerone]

Correct grounding the tan wires sounds the horn.----Do a compression test.----Check for spark on all leads.-----Do not run motor until you find the bogging issue.

 

[SandCruiser]

Thank you racerone! Compression is within spec. All fuel system has been gone through. Currently learning to test all ignition components using OMC manual and CDI website. I know very little about DVAs and ohms but I’m learning.

Back to the tan wires… they 100% have 12v. I turned the key off and lost power, then with key on I unplugged the large red harness and lost power to tan bullets as well. So I just pulled the tan wire from the horn itself and power goes away. Tan back to horn and power is back. So I’m guessing the horn shorted to power across to tan wire. Will be ordering a horn soon.

Now my big question is… would that 12v being “back-fed” into the power pack cause SLOW type symptoms? Also, would that affect other ignition tests?