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New to me 2002 BF130 - Rough idle

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mashenden61

Member
I have a 2002 BF130 with about 200 hours - new to me. It has a rough idle that I hope to resolve.

My plan is to:

  1. Do a compression test - I sure wish I had done that before I bought the boat/motor since I do not know if the block was replaced under the recall.
  2. Replace the spark plugs.
  3. Replace the thermostat in case it is stuck open and running cold - it has been run mostly in salt water.
Any guidance on where the thermostat is located would be appreciated. I figure it will be apparent when I am at the boat, but right now I am not there so I thought I'd ask.

Thank you in advance.

Matt A
 
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Thermostat is on the port side near the top of the engine.

You are doing the right thing checking all the things that you listed. If all that turns out to the good, check the idle air control valve.

Idle is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve #25 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2002/BF130A2 LA/INTAKE MANIFOLD/parts.html

Mike

#24 is a screen that gets carboned up and needs to be cleaned occasionally with solvent. Also, it helps to clean the carbon from the barrel of the throttle body.


One thing I forgot to mention. Take the compression with the throttle in throttle only and full throttle. Disconnect the safety landyard and cut the spark.
 
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Skooter said:
Have you checked fuel/water separator? Also be wise to replace fuel filters. How old is the fuel in the tank?
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Thank you for the reply. I'm told that the fuel system had been worked on so I believe it is OK. Fuel is at least 50% fresh (I put it in) and what was there had stabilizer in it, so I "should" be OK there. That said, if these other steps do not have a positive effect, I will be taking a closer look at it. I did notice that the line from the bulb to the motor had not been replaced (the section most prone to UV deterioration) so I am a bit skeptical.

Is the "install a piece of clear hose to see if there are bubbles" advice relevant to this model of engine, and if so where would I put it?
 
hondadude said:
Thermostat is on the port side near the top of the engine.

You are doing the right thing checking all the things that you listed. If all that turns out to the good, check the idle air control valve.

Idle is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve #25 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2002/BF130A2 LA/INTAKE MANIFOLD/parts.html

Mike

#24 is a screen that gets carboned up and needs to be cleaned occasionally with solvent. Also, it helps to clean the carbon from the barrel of the throttle body.


One thing I forgot to mention. Take the compression with the throttle in throttle only and full throttle. Disconnect the safety landyard and cut the spark.
Click to expand...

Very helpful info - thank you. I would not have known to open the throttle.
 
One thing I forgot to mention. The most critical issues with the 130's are it must have good fresh fuel and the correct/good spark plugs. Make sure you get the NGK plugs.

Adding fresh fuel to questionable fuel, could still give you questionable fuel. When all else fails, get a small tank with fresh fuel and flush the fuel system with the fresh fuel....draining the fuel out at the nipple on the vapor separator. Then give it another try.

Mike
 
It looks like the issue was the plugs. When I started it up this weekend, the miss was much more notable - would not get up on a plane. In the past it would smooth out at higher RPMs, but not this time. I pulled wires and isolated the issue to Cyl #2. After putting a replacement plug in that cylinder the problem went away.

I then replaced the rest. I did not see water on them and they did not look overly fouled either. I can't say I noticed a difference between the plug that was causing the problem and the ones that were not. It must be a subtle thing.

Regardless, this looks like a promising solution - hopefully nothing else is wrong that is causing the plugs to foul quickly. I really need this motor to run at idle since I will be wanting to troll fish in the Fall.

I still want to do a compression test (no excuse for why I bought the boat without doing that first - boat fever, I guess). It looks like the thermostat had been replaced recently but I will still put the new one in next weekend now that I have a gasket. Then I'll see if the new plugs stay good for at least a season. Hope so because short of this issue, I am very happy with the performance. This boat is notably less thirsty than the Grady White 22 w Yammy 225 4 stroke that I used to own.
 
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mashenden61: I am in the same 'boat' as you, having recently acquired an early BF130 saltwater motor. Take a look at my thread for signs of corrosion on the steering arm before spending any more time on the water with it. Mine was about ready to snap, and a little wiggle with pliers was all it took to separate from the steering entirely. It's tucked up under the cowl and hard to see unless you're looking for it.

Regarding your idle, mine idles a little rough when cold too. If I bump it up above 1000rpm with neutral engaged it purrs like a kitten. I removed and checked the plugs and the gap was at spec and they all looked identical (NGKs) - dry, gray/black, no residue on the threads. Due to the steering arm issue I haven't put it in the water so I've only run it on the hose with muffs since bringing it home. If you come up with any more findings I would appreciate you updating your thread so I can follow along. Tight lines this fall
 
Wow - I have noticed some corrosion on my steering, and it did spend some time in FL. I'll take a closer look. Just for clarification is the Steering Arm the same thing that is called the Mounting Frame in the parts pictures?
 
mashenden61 said:
Wow - I have noticed some corrosion on my steering, and it did spend some time in FL. I'll take a closer look. Just for clarification is the Steering Arm the same thing that is called the Mounting Frame in the parts pictures?
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Yes that's the same part. The good news is it's not a difficult replacement to perform at home, the bad news is it seems the Hondas are highly susceptible to this failure and it'll probably happen again in its lifetime. One member mentioned sending it to a plating company for some zinc plating protection and I'm thinking that's not a terrible idea. The cheapest I've found a new OEM part is $240 and the supporting pieces to replace add another $170 or so to do it right. The local yards want $700+ just for the labor to change it out so I'm still well ahead. This one lasted 15 years but it was probably due for replacement 2-5 years ago. I don't know if anyone ever attempted to maintain it with a rinse of Salt Away and a coat of grease prior to its ultimate demise, but I suspect not.
 
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