mercury 60 horse bigfoot no tilt/trim or crank

[timebombprod]

the outboard is a 2013 mercury 60 horse bigfoot, this is a 4 stroke EFI motor.
the motor has no crank at all and no tilt or trim, im testing the tilt and trim strictly from the motor and not on the hull. everytime you try using the tilt either up or down the relay clicks, sometimes when you crank a relay clicks, i havent ensured its the same one.
the fuel pump turns on when key goes to on position.
the starter solenoid is getting the full battery voltage on the "power in" side but none on the "power out" side when cranking which i figured it wouldnt. the signal wire does not get any voltage whatsoever but the ground itself seems to be good.
i tried tracing the signal wire from the starter solenoid and it ends up being a yellow and red wire, i tried tracing that and i cant find it on the other end but the harness that the wire ends up in goes to the same relay as the tilt and trim are on.
im going to ensure all connections from the battery to the motor aswell as anything on the starter circuit or secure aswell as clean, and i plan on swapping relays on the motor to see if that fixes the issue, aswell as seeing if the battery can handle a load properly.

if anyone has any ideas of what it may be aswell as any tests i should run please let me know!
i dont know how to test the relay itself other than getting it to click but it does click everysingle time so im not entirely sure. ill take a video and i will let you all know what happens.

 

[racerone]

Charge the batter and have it load tested.----Often a free service at battery retailer.

 

[timebombprod]

okay so just to recollect everything i know

the motor is a 2013 mercury 60horse 4 stroke EFI bigfoot.

-the motor has no crank or trim

-direct power was gave to the trim and they work fine so the PT&T is fine

-the starter solenoid was given direct power and works fine so the starter solenoid is fine

- the 3 relays that are on the motor for the trim and starter all click consistently when given power the all 3 relays are fine

-these 3 relays click at the appropriate time when given either up or down trim both from the motor and the control module, aswell as when you use the key to try to crank. so the wires between all are fine.

- the fuel pump aswell as the alarm turn on when the key is turned from off to on and they work consistently so they are fine.

-the battery itself has the proper amount of voltage and only drops down .1 of a volt when key is turned from off to on so the battery is fine

-there is the same amount of voltage the battery reads to the cables aswell as all the cables and wires being secured properly on the motor so the cables and voltage is fine

-the fuses on the motor are all good, so the fuses are fine

-when moving the throttle and shift control while trying to crank the motor nothing changes so the neutral safety is POSSIBLY fine

-when testing for a open and then closed circuit on the ignition barrel, i am able to have a open circuit when key off and a closed one when key on with no resistance, but i have not checked when trying to crank, so the ignition barrel is POSSIBLY fine

now for the problems

-with the diode suppressor disconnected, a multimeter is probed on the yellow and red wire that connects to the suppressor diode, aswell a ground, the multimeter is placed on direct voltage, and with the key turned to crank the motor over, there is a consistent reading of .02 volts on the multimeter, that goes away when back to on, and comes back when trying to crank.

- a 25 amp fuse was blown on the fuse box on the motor, that was replaced and hasnt blown again but nothing has changed as far as the problem goes

- the suppressor diode when being checked for resistance has a closed circuit but no resistance going both ways when connecting the probes to the red and yellow wire, and the brown wire, then the probes swapped.

im going to take the suppesor diode out of the equation for now because there is no voltage even reaching it to create a signal to the solenoid.

so the only things that i would know of is the neutral safety and the ignition barrel being an issue, but i dont think the neutral safety would cause there to be no voltage to the trim, but maybe the ignition barrel could be the culprit to both of those. but seeing as i get a consistent flow of voltage when trying to crank that leaves when stop cranking i would think the ignition barrel is doing what i should even if it is only .02 volts.

this boat has one battery in the back and one under the center console. this is a pontoon boat.

please if you have any tests i can do to find further information or have a suspicion please let me know!