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Merc Alpha 1 reliability - things to look for when buying

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swampyankee

Contributing Member
I'm out looking at older boats, mostly because I'm a cheap SOB that doesn't mind working on fixing stuff and don't like the uber-sculpted styling of late model boats.
I found a 23' cruiser type boat with Merc 5.7L/Alpha 1 drive. A bunch of guys I know all say I/O's are unreliable, and to avoid them. But there are gazillions of boats, old and new out there running single and twin I/O, so I'm thinking with proper maintenance, how bad can they be.
So my question is, is an Alpha 1 drive on a 5.7 pushing a 4000 lb. pocket cruiser looking for trouble? If not, what should I look for when inspecting the drive? take an oil sample and check for metal particles? Check for looseness in the drivetrain? Noises? Shifting?
Most likely I won't be able to sea trial the boat, especially when looking this time of year. But I don't expect to be paying top dollar either. Any advice (no bashing allowed)?
 
I own a 1987 21 ft open bow (3400 lbs dry weight no gas or anything in the boat) Gas tank is 63 gallons.
It has a 5.7 260 hp original engine. Outdrive was new in 1995 because of marina hit original with fork truck, insurance paid for new one.
I took ownership soon after new drive was installed in 1995.


FRESH WATER USE ONLY. NO SALT WATER USE AT ALL.


So I own a 1987, purchased in 1995.
Boat 31 years old
Outdrive 16 years old.

Last season I had to replace some seals/o-rings in lower unit.

FIRST TIME outdrive has been apart since 1995 except for water pump impeller replacement which is normal maintenance.

So not sure what you are hearing the rumors.......

Many factors,

Boat brand
Fresh or salt water use
How boat was used, enjoyment or a lot of water skiing/tubing or high speed
How boat was taken care of.........many just park them uncovered in their yards and they go to hell.
 
The boat currently in question is an '80's Formula 23 cruiser. It would be used all around Narragansett bay and out to the islands, mostly cruising and weekending.

Any "rumors" I've heard were from folks down at the marina, who see I/Os left in salt water for the season where corrosion takes its toll, and maintenance is questionable.
Although I'd plan to rent a slip for the season, I'd expect to trailer mine home 1/2 the time for cleanup, maintenance and just so I don't have to worry about it. Keeping a boat in the water all season is a source of stress I'd rather avoid.
 
swampyankee said:
I'm out looking at older boats, mostly because I'm a cheap SOB that doesn't mind working on fixing stuff and don't like the uber-sculpted styling of late model boats.
I found a 23' cruiser type boat with Merc 5.7L/Alpha 1 drive. A bunch of guys I know all say I/O's are unreliable, and to avoid them. But there are gazillions of boats, old and new out there running single and twin I/O, so I'm thinking with proper maintenance, how bad can they be.
So my question is, is an Alpha 1 drive on a 5.7 pushing a 4000 lb. pocket cruiser looking for trouble? If not, what should I look for when inspecting the drive? take an oil sample and check for metal particles? Check for looseness in the drivetrain? Noises? Shifting?
Most likely I won't be able to sea trial the boat, especially when looking this time of year. But I don't expect to be paying top dollar either. Any advice (no bashing allowed)?
Click to expand...

The 5.7 and alpha are one of the most numerous and longest produced marine engines and outdrives out there. Sure if you are comparing a 30 year old carbed and points igniton to a new 4 stroke FI outboard, yes there is a defernce in maintenace requirements, but not reliability when properly maintained. Like Kghost I have been using the same boats for decades as well. First boat was 25 years old when I sold it in good running order, this one is 6 years with me 16 years total... so no reliability issues with IO's.

As far as checking sea trial would be the best bet, maybe you can agree to a price pending sea trial hold some oney back until weather breaks. I dont think that would be that unusual a request.

at least run the engine on the hose (can be done if drive is off for storage) do a compression check and check oil pressure when hot and will it stay to temp. Drive look at oil for water and metal contamination, pressure test for seal integrity. Check the bellows and shift shaft pin for play. You have to expect some issues but having a reasonable idea of what you are getting into $$$ wise. Also look at general way the boat is kept and if they have repair records. Like KGhost pointed out if it was left outside or has leaves on mold on the interior move on cause they didnt do any mechanical maitenace. On the other hand if they did what most folks do and pay the marina $700-1000 a year to winterize, oil, outdrive lube, fuel filter and some odds and ends etc chances are you will have a good boat.

Trailer look at the tires and brakes, likely they need replacement. When I bought my new boat I spent about $800 on a complete new brake system (self installed) and new tires.

What is your usage ? Salt can be tougher on IOs if somemone doesnt keep up with their annode maintenace and use a mercathode in a slip boat
 
There are so many boats out there. My advice is to buy the most that you can afford and not go cheap. I assume that you'll be trailer storing this thing, yes? So you're limited to a boat that's within the capability of the tow vehicle. In the 1970s and 80s there were a lot of "chop gun specials" that were poorly laid up, had little tabbing or encapsulation of the internal structure, and badly installed fit up. Avoid Boston Whaler type construction. It's basically marshmallow fluff inside a candy shell. If you look at an older one, they're loaded with stress cracks. Junk.
So what does a good hull look like? Good hulls are made by hand. They consist of layers of fiberglass woven roving, not chopped strand. The longitudinal stringers are completely wrapped in cloth roving and solidly attached to the inside of the hull 4-6 inches out on both sides. If it's a monocoque, the inner and outer hull will be hand laminated from cloth, not chopped strand.
A hull built this way will not show signs of stress cracks even 40 years on (my Allmand is made this way). Avoid hulls that are sandwich made of balsa wood core. Without super strict quality control, the sandwich core can become waterlogged and the hull is no good (yes, Carver/Silverton, I'm talking to you). Good hulls are heavy. They sound deep and solid when you knock on the sides. They don't belly or oil can.
Test the decks and transom for moisture content. You need a special instrument to do this, so it's a good idea to hire a marine surveyor to inspect for this kind of impossible to detect damage. This is true if the boat you're looking at is $1000 or $10,000,000. Spend the few hundred to have it fully assessed and you'll save yourself a lot of heartbreak.
If you're buying old, stick with the classics...Bertram, Chris Craft, Phoenix, Larson, Mako, Sea Fox, (some) Wellcraft. There are others but you really gotta know your brands or else you can end up with a t*rd.
As for reliability, it's hard to beat a small block Chevy, and lots of stern drive have one of those sitting in the back. I guess the outboard fans prefer having a big honking lump hanging off the back getting in the way of your fishing rod. In either case if you run into a rock it's gonna ruin your day, so know your waters and keep out of the sketchy areas.
If you fall in love, send us the info and we will happily tell you the truth about your prospective engagement. We've all gotten burned buying a boat that was cheap. looked good, but ended up being a money pit (Anacapri 23, Carver Mariner 28).
Bottom line, a quality boat whether it's built 40 years or 4 days ago will stand the test of time and be a reliable solid piece of gear to get you out and back safely.
A 5.7 will push a 23 foot Mako nicely but will struggle with a similar sized Stamas because the Stamas is constructed like a proverbial brick (poop)house. Hard to say in general terms what's what without more info.
 
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swampyankee said:
The boat currently in question is an '80's Formula 23 cruiser. It would be used all around Narragansett bay and out to the islands, mostly cruising and weekending.

Any "rumors" I've heard were from folks down at the marina, who see I/Os left in salt water for the season where corrosion takes its toll, and maintenance is questionable.
Although I'd plan to rent a slip for the season, I'd expect to trailer mine home 1/2 the time for cleanup, maintenance and just so I don't have to worry about it. Keeping a boat in the water all season is a source of stress I'd rather avoid.
Click to expand...

Formula is a good boat.

Out drives regardless of boat type or of how often you pull to clean/flush, If left at a slip will cause the O/D life to be shortened. It will erode due to salt/brackish water and stray current at the marina/slip.

If this boat has a BIG BLOCK-454 and an Alpha one---------------stay away. If it has a Bravo one then you are ok as far as power to outdrive goes.

In the mid to late 80's they stuffed a lot of boats with big blocks and Alpha's..........Lets just say there are not many left........They cant handle the torque of a big block under heavy load.
By 1989-1990 they started to use Bravo one with all Big blocks

On the brighter side, You can always buy a used spare drive or two for relatively low cost compared to new. Just do so where boats are used in fresh water only.

My friends late 80's boat needed a replacement Alpha 1 gen 1, the whole drive, last summer. Catastrophic failure, His fault!

I found a fresh water only one on Craigslist with the correct gear ratio for $650.00 (New replacement $3500.00)

I did water pump impeller and pressure checked (passed) and new gear lube. Used it all summer no issues!
 
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o2batsea said:
There are so many boats out there. My advice is to buy the most that you can afford and not go cheap. I assume that you'll be trailer storing this thing, yes? So you're limited to a boat that's within the capability of the tow vehicle. In the 1970s and 80s there were a lot of "chop gun specials" that were poorly laid up, had little tabbing or encapsulation of the internal structure, and badly installed fit up. Avoid Boston Whaler type construction. It's basically marshmallow fluff inside a candy shell. If you look at an older one, they're loaded with stress cracks. Junk.
So what does a good hull look like? Good hulls are made by hand. They consist of layers of fiberglass woven roving, not chopped strand. The longitudinal stringers are completely wrapped in cloth roving and solidly attached to the inside of the hull 4-6 inches out on both sides. If it's a monocoque, the inner and outer hull will be hand laminated from cloth, not chopped strand.
A hull built this way will not show signs of stress cracks even 40 years on (my Allmand is made this way). Avoid hulls that are sandwich made of balsa wood core. Without super strict quality control, the sandwich core can become waterlogged and the hull is no good (yes, Carver/Silverton, I'm talking to you). Good hulls are heavy. They sound deep and solid when you knock on the sides. They don't belly or oil can.
Test the decks and transom for moisture content. You need a special instrument to do this, so it's a good idea to hire a marine surveyor to inspect for this kind of impossible to detect damage. This is true if the boat you're looking at is $1000 or $10,000,000. Spend the few hundred to have it fully assessed and you'll save yourself a lot of heartbreak.
If you're buying old, stick with the classics...Bertram, Chris Craft, Phoenix, Larson, Mako, Sea Fox, (some) Wellcraft. There are others but you really gotta know your brands or else you can end up with a t*rd.
As for reliability, it's hard to beat a small block Chevy, and lots of stern drive have one of those sitting in the back. I guess the outboard fans prefer having a big honking lump hanging off the back getting in the way of your fishing rod. In either case if you run into a rock it's gonna ruin your day, so know your waters and keep out of the sketchy areas.
If you fall in love, send us the info and we will happily tell you the truth about your prospective engagement. We've all gotten burned buying a boat that was cheap. looked good, but ended up being a money pit (Anacapri 23, Carver Mariner 28).
Bottom line, a quality boat whether it's built 40 years or 4 days ago will stand the test of time and be a reliable solid piece of gear to get you out and back safely.
A 5.7 will push a 23 foot Mako nicely but will struggle with a similar sized Stamas because the Stamas is constructed like a proverbial brick (poop)house. Hard to say in general terms what's what without more info.
Click to expand...

All great info Thanx! The boat is an 85 Formula 23 SC. Full interior with enclosed head for the wife, hull with a good reputation for me, overnighting capabilities for exploring the bay and the cape for both of us. It is a small block Chevy. Trailer is aluminum with surge brakes. Not very old and seems to be in good repair. The seller has owned the boat for about 9 years, trailering it to the bay and the cape, and using it for cruising and fishing. It looks like he kept it clean and it good repair, although it does need a few things - par for the course on a boat this old. We could afford to pay more and I would if I found a newer boat with the same features. But today's pocket cruisers are all about style and upholstery, and that reverse sheer bow on most just doesn't look seaworthy. The Formula hull has a 24 degree deadrise and good reputation. Besides, I've never owned a boat that wasn't a project to some degree. It's part of the fun of boat ownership for me. :cool:
 
'85 is a two piece rear main seal if 350 engine is original.

Thunderbolt iV electronic ignition, Very dependable but if your going out to sea get a spare cap, rotor, sensor pickup assembly and carry with you on boat. Cheap insurance if ignition fails. Also spare V belts

Most likely a Rochester 4bbl if original

If outdrive is original, it most likely is either an R drive or MR

most likely an MR which is basically the same as Alpha one gen 1 no differences worth noting, Predecessor to Alpha one gen 1

R is basically the same but several different parts internal, water pump design/parts, and bearings and seals. etc...

Good to know so pics would help...

Is this a "closed cooling" or raw water cooling? Difference is easy to spot. Closed has a heat exchanger, a 4 inch diameter tube with several hose connections.
(closed is preferred for salt water use as it keeps raw salt water out of exhaust manifolds and engine block)
 
kghost said:
'85 is a two piece rear main seal if 350 engine is original.

Thunderbolt iV electronic ignition, Very dependable but if your going out to sea get a spare cap, rotor, sensor pickup assembly and carry with you on boat. Cheap insurance if ignition fails. Also spare V belts

Most likely a Rochester 4bbl if original

If outdrive is original, it most likely is either an R drive or MR

most likely an MR which is basically the same as Alpha one gen 1 no differences worth noting, Predecessor to Alpha one gen 1

R is basically the same but several different parts internal, water pump design/parts, and bearings and seals. etc...

Good to know so pics would help...

Is this a "closed cooling" or raw water cooling? Difference is easy to spot. Closed has a heat exchanger, a 4 inch diameter tube with several hose connections.
(closed is preferred for salt water use as it keeps raw salt water out of exhaust manifolds and engine block)
Click to expand...

The owner said he replaced the original motor with a 5.7 a couple years ago and had a mech go thru it. He said the drive was replaced as well. Its an Alpha 1 gen 1.
 
Get a survey. Think with your head not your heart. Formula is an OK builder but you def want an expert eye on it before you pay for it. The potty is probably not up to current legal standard, unless it's a porta potti. You don't wanna get hit with a big fine for fertilizing the waterways
 
Last edited:
o2batsea said:
There are so many boats out there. My advice is to buy the most that you can afford and not go cheap. I assume that you'll be trailer storing this thing, yes? So you're limited to a boat that's within the capability of the tow vehicle. In the 1970s and 80s there were a lot of "chop gun specials" that were poorly laid up, had little tabbing or encapsulation of the internal structure, and badly installed fit up. Avoid Boston Whaler type construction. It's basically marshmallow fluff inside a candy shell. If you look at an older one, they're loaded with stress cracks. Junk.
So what does a good hull look like? Good hulls are made by hand. They consist of layers of fiberglass woven roving, not chopped strand. The longitudinal stringers are completely wrapped in cloth roving and solidly attached to the inside of the hull 4-6 inches out on both sides. If it's a monocoque, the inner and outer hull will be hand laminated from cloth, not chopped strand.
A hull built this way will not show signs of stress cracks even 40 years on (my Allmand is made this way). Avoid hulls that are sandwich made of balsa wood core. Without super strict quality control, the sandwich core can become waterlogged and the hull is no good (yes, Carver/Silverton, I'm talking to you). Good hulls are heavy. They sound deep and solid when you knock on the sides. They don't belly or oil can.
Test the decks and transom for moisture content. You need a special instrument to do this, so it's a good idea to hire a marine surveyor to inspect for this kind of impossible to detect damage. This is true if the boat you're looking at is $1000 or $10,000,000. Spend the few hundred to have it fully assessed and you'll save yourself a lot of heartbreak.
If you're buying old, stick with the classics...Bertram, Chris Craft, Phoenix, Larson, Mako, Sea Fox, (some) Wellcraft. There are others but you really gotta know your brands or else you can end up with a t*rd.
As for reliability, it's hard to beat a small block Chevy, and lots of stern drive have one of those sitting in the back. I guess the outboard fans prefer having a big honking lump hanging off the back getting in the way of your fishing rod. In either case if you run into a rock it's gonna ruin your day, so know your waters and keep out of the sketchy areas.
If you fall in love, send us the info and we will happily tell you the truth about your prospective engagement. We've all gotten burned buying a boat that was cheap. looked good, but ended up being a money pit (Anacapri 23, Carver Mariner 28).
Bottom line, a quality boat whether it's built 40 years or 4 days ago will stand the test of time and be a reliable solid piece of gear to get you out and back safely.
A 5.7 will push a 23 foot Mako nicely but will struggle with a similar sized Stamas because the Stamas is constructed like a proverbial brick (poop)house. Hard to say in general terms what's what without more info.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for all the information..
 
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