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Lower unit damage advice. Near water pump

Echdogg85

New member
I'm new to forums and boats in general. What I have is a 1982 90hp johnson seahorse lower unit that has some casting damage below the water pump. As in 2 half quarter sized chunks missing! Should I just throw the gasket and pump assembly on it and call it replaced or is this catastrophic problem that needs addressed before it's put back together? How is this fixed? Aluminum weld? Jb weld? Let me know guys and thanks in advance.

ERIK
 
I feel like it will possibly suck air into the pump now that I think about it. How much are lower units like this? Or how could it possibly be repaired? Jb weld and silicone lol...thanks for the prompt reply boobie, I tried to get pics uploaded last night but figured out this morning my pics were too big and had to resize
 
Damage of that nature (on both sides) was caused by someone carelessly prying out that top gearcase seal and bearing housing assembly.

The water pump absolutely cannot function properly and will draw air.... either that area has to be repaired or the gearcase replaced.

DO NOT ever use silicone anywhere near a outboard engine (ugh!)... and JB Weld will not do that job successfully!

That area would have to be quite clean then you could have it heli arced (aluminum weld) and resurfaced at a machine shop... OR... by using a substance called "Marine-Tex-Gray" (not white), available at most reliable marine shops, dealerships, etc... and using masking tape as a wall to mold that area back into its proper shape (a little at a time)... after which it will harden to a strength greater then steel and you can then carefully (very carefully) file the top surface down to be exactly lever with the gearcase top surface.

One hellava job to do yourself... and time consuming. Best route would be the machine shop.
 
Use JB weld and fibreglass matting.---------Lay it horizontal and do one side at a time.--------Build it up so that you have to file it down for a perfect fit of the pump plate.-----------Results / opinions will vary of course.
 
I'd probably go the gray Marine Tex route as Joe suggested. I've used that stuff and had good luck with it.
 
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