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LM318 Starter Issue

RosieB12

Member
Hi folks ... I'm a newbie, so bear with me. (b.t.w. - I tried getting registered on Marinette Boat Forum, but can't seem to stay logged in.)

Now ... my new (old 1988) Marinette 32 flybridge is in the water. Chrysler LM318 engines ran well after launch for about 30 minutes and I got her into the slip. I replaced two gunky fuel filters (filled them, but forgot to otherwise prime engine). Port engine started fine & runs well. Starboard engine began to turn over, but then I got a very LOUD SCREECHING sound and the engine was not cranking. Screeching stopped only when I turned off the ignition. I believe this is a starter motor breakdown? Any other thoughts? Is replacement as easy as just (1) disconnecting battery leads, (2) removing the two bolts, and (3) sliding out and replacing the starter?

Also... the port engine has an ID plate in place with ID numbers indicating LEFT prop rotation, and a symbol on top of the block that seems to show CW rotation. My starboard (troubled) engine has no ID plate anywhere, but the symbol on top seems also to show CW rotation. Is it possible (likely) that both engines have CW rotation? I know a replacement starter will need to match THAT rotation, right? Thanks... BILL
 
The starter drive sounds like it's slipping and needs to be replaced. (That's a reverse rotating motor, so you need the correct starter for it.) Removal is simple--two bolts. I suggest you get it rebuilt at a reliable rebuilder--cheapest way, and you know it'll fit. I have one in Allentown, PA if you want to use them. They accept mail in starters.

Jeff
 
Thanks, Jeff. I was hoping to make contact since you seem to be "The Man" when it comes to all things Marinette. Yes, I'd love to have the name, address, phone, web...whatever...for your rebuilder. Thanks for being such a GREAT resource. BILL
 
Glad to help! These are good people who do a good job and don't rob you blind:

Park Manor Sales and Service
915 Greenleaf St.
Allentown, PA 18102-1473
610-770-9488

Jeff
 
First let me welcome you to the Marinette Club. Your boat is young compaired to most. She will give you a lot of pleasure and a lot of pain...just like any woman ;)

Not so fast:p on changing the starter. We need more info!

Did you open your sea cocks :rolleyes:..got to ask.

Did the engine stop turning over, or would it just not start/run?

Your screeching could be the v belt slipping. Someone could have missed a pulley while installing a new belt...etc.

It could also be the sea pump impeller coming apart.

Give us a little history on the boat, has it been sitting for a long period of time?

Try the Marinette site again http://www.marinetteboat.com/forum/
 
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Sorry to have been outta action for awhile. Turns out that my "screeching" was something stuck in my raw water pump impeller. Marina mechanic removed it (no charge-5 minutes) and the engine's running fine. Well...it now seems to be running at close to 200 degrees on my temp guage. Don't know if it's accurate. Is this too hot for a raw water/cooled LM316?
 
No charge! 5 mins :rolleyes: ...super mech that does not charge :rolleyes: ... better keep that guy! It wouldn't be the same guy that dewinterized your boat would it???:confused: (the one that left the seacock closed...did I say that??):eek:

Did he remove the impeller? Should have replaced it when he had it out.... I suspect the impeller to be old with a few fins missing....but I'm not there, and you will not give us the boats history.

200* is way too hot for raw water engine. Your thermostat should keep you at 140*. Again the higher temp points to a bad raw water pump impeller or thermostat.

Do you have an IR temp gun yet? Tell 'em Jeff...you can ck temp against the other engine.



Keep us up to date.
 
Thanks, guys. I'll check again with my "Uber-Mechanic" and try to clarify exactly what he discovered and corrected. At this point all I know is Biblical: "I don't know by what authority he healed me, but once I was blind and now I can see." The seacocks ARE/HAVE BEEN open. Regrettably perhaps, I'm the "guy who dewinterized" - am still dewinterizing - the boat. When the troubled engine first ran at spring start-up it was running cool (145 deg) per my guage. Port engine temp gauge is not operating, so I guess I'll have to replace that. I'm going to get into that stbd impeller today and pull/replace as you suggested. Thanks for the "heads up" on the IR temp gun. Never heard o' such a thing, but I'll surely get one now. As for "not wanting to share the boat's history," not quite accurate. I really don't know the boat's history since it came from an estate sale in Baltimore. Records, logs, spare parts, general condition of boat all suggest great care by this one original owner - though I suspect he may have been ill for some years before sale and may not have done all he had in the past. Thanks again for being out there, ya'll. I'll keep you updated. Oh...b.t.w.... As for the free-5 min mechanic - I know his mother and where he lives....
 
Warning! Before removing that raw water pump LABEL the way it was together. You can easily put it together in the port engine configuration where it will not pump (and fry your brand new impeller. Don't ask!)

Note also (literally--draw a sketch) of how the impeller vanes bend over since they will NOT self correct in run.

Jeff
 
Gee whizzzzz...Jeff. Of course you know that before seeing your last post, I had already taken the pump off and removed the cover and impeller. So... now am I cooked? How do I conjur how to put the impeller in so it's turning in the right direction, AND get the pump back on the way it came off? There seems to be a 1 and a 2 stamped on the pump ports, and I assume that 1 is "In" and 2 is "Out." True? Regardless, I think the way the two hoses are bent and configured, I can get the pump back as it came off. Which way the impeller turns is still eluding me.
 
I was afraid of that, but no matter. Got you covered! Print out the below and you'll be fine.

Jeff
 

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Jeff, I just peeked in on this thread, and I have a question for you re; this image.



Assuming that these are belt driven/forward engine mounted, if the above image displays a front view of the engines looking AFT, and if these views are cut-a-way views of each sea water pump ..... isn't your Port/Stbd labeling reversed?
IOW.... the Stbd image would actually be Port..... and the Port image would actually be Stbd?


Below:
The first pump shown would be for a LH Std rotaion engine. Notice the direction of the impeller and folded blades.
This would be the same as your right side image.

Further down:
The pump shown at the left would be for a RH Reverse rotation engine......... the pump at the right would be for a LH Std rotation. Yes/No?

.
 

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It's a from aft looking forward view of the pumps--sorry that I didn't make that more clear. (I can't physiclly look at them from the front on my boat--a bulkhead is in the way.)

Jeff

PS: I'll make a note of this on my revised sketch.
 
It's a from aft looking forward view of the pumps--sorry that I didn't make that more clear. (I can't physiclly look at them from the front on my boat--a bulkhead is in the way.)

Jeff

PS: I'll make a note of this on my revised sketch.
No biggy, Jeff, and I didn't mean to step on any toes.... I just happened to catch it.

What caught my eye, was that the actual pump pictured (above the two drawings) is showing a RH Reverse Rotation engine pump housing as though viewed from forward looking aft. Then if the OP had looked at the two impeller direction drawings..., it may have thrown him off.
I didn't want the OP to make a mistake when reinstalling these..... and it can be easy to do!
In fact, I believe that a year or so ago, someone posted a similar thread and had installed one pump reversed.

.
 
Thanks for the clarification, guys. My boat's in the same configuration as Jeff's so his diagram made perfect sense at the time. Always good to ask. Ya'll have "made my day." Peace..
 
Oh...another quick question: What is the "non-petroleum lubricant" the instructions want me to put in the impeller housing?
 
dish washing liquid will work just fine. Not much need to prime the pump with water since you have the lube in. Put your strainer bowl cap on open sea cock and crank engine over. You should get water flow pretty quick.

Do you have strainer bowl with clear top??
 
SUCCESS! Feels REALLY cool to have my starboard engine RAW pump running again with my new impeller. Jeff...the tie down cinch worked really well as did your great pictures and schematics. Tundra...the dishsoap was a stroke of genius. Thanks to all from RosieB12 running at 140 degrees. Peace...
 
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