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Land run 2017 BF60A

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GlennG2759

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I recently inherited a boat with a Honda BF60A engine. It’s been sitting in South Carolina since July ‘23. I planning on changing plugs, dumping oil, cleaning fuel tank, and filter/separator. My question is what is the procedure for running out of the water. I’ve flushed via the hose bib in the motor, but the owners manual say do not run the engine during this. Pardon my ignorance I’m new to boating but is there another way I can run this motor out of water just see how it runs. Thanks.
 
Others will probably disagree with me but, in my opinion, the safest way to run an outboard on land is in a trashcan full of water.

There are devices called "muffs" (like ear muffs) that you connect to a garden hose and put the muffs over the water pump inlet screens. They do work and I've used them myself but they have to fit perfectly and not leak.

Some outboards have water inlets in addition to the ones that the muff ears cover. You need to know about those and tape them shut or you risk destroying the pump and cooking your engine. As a result, I prefer and recommend the "test tank" or trashcan method.

Using the trashcan you still need to understand that the outboard lower end be submerged so that the anti ventilation plate is at least about 2 or 3 inches under water for proper water intake depth.

You also have to limit the time you run in a tank so that the water doesn't get hot from the engine's exhaust. Either that or constantly add cool water while closely monitoring the temperature.

A big advantage to running in a tank vs. muffs is that it gives you an accurate indication of how the waterpump is performing. You won't get that by force feeding water into the pump via the muffs.

Good luck.
 
Others will probably disagree with me but, in my opinion, the safest way to run an outboard on land is in a trashcan full of water.

There are devices called "muffs" (like ear muffs) that you connect to a garden hose and put the muffs over the water pump inlet screens. They do work and I've used them myself but they have to fit perfectly and not leak.

Some outboards have water inlets in addition to the ones that the muff ears cover. You need to know about those and tape them shut or you risk destroying the pump and cooking your engine. As a result, I prefer and recommend the "test tank" or trashcan method.

Using the the trashcan you still need to understand that the outboard lower end be submerged so that the anti ventilation plate at least about 2 or 3 inches under water for proper water intake depth.

You also have to limit the time you run in a tank so that the water doesn't get hot from the engine's exhaust. Either that or constantly add cool water while closely monitoring the temperature.

A big advantage to running in a tank vs. muffs is that it gives you an accurate indication of how the waterpump is performing. You won't get that by force feeding water into the pump via the muffs.

Good luck
 
I also only use an old plastic barrel for running the outboard, my 130 takes a long time of running to get the water temperature in the barrel up to say 160/180. Usually I’m doing this to rinse the salt out, so I’m running at 2000 rpm for 15 minutes, the barrel water never gets real hot.

I’d run a heavy dose of sea foam to the gas to clean out the fuel system too, gets rid of varnish and any moisture.
 
I use an IBC tank with the top cut off.
700L of water allows me to run my 225 for quite a while before it starts getting warm.

Another benefit of an IBC is that I can leave it filled and move it around with my pallet truck.

Not a big fan of muffs and apparently they can't supply enough water to keep a 225 cool although you might not have that issue.
 
Definitely listen to JGMO, he knows these engines. I use a 2X3 stock tank for my BF200. Before you dump the oil, you should run the motor in a test tank and get it nice and warm. The warm oil will drain better.
 
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