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JR Timing Method Gone Wrong?

GearFly

New member
I have Johnson 1997 twin 60 hp two stroke motors (J60TLEUA). I used the JR method for timing. Starboard engine went good and timing was in range. Port engine was out by 6 degrees. Pulled flywheel to check Woodruff key and flywheel magnets, looked ok. Adjusted the timing screw and then tried to check my adjustment with timing light, but there was no spark on #1, so i changed coil pack got one brief timing flash and then no spark.

Went through the DVA tests per manual for port engine and it indicates that the port stator and timing base is bad ( only 8 V on charge coil of stator instead of 250v +).

For reference I checked the starboard engine and that indicated that the stator was also bad but the timing base was OK.

What could I have done that fried the stator on both motors?

Wired timer base all the way forward, pulled plugs grounded #2 & #3, used spark tester on #1 with timing light. Cranked the engine (also used muffs to protect impeller).

Any help is appreciated as it appears I have done at least $600 dollars in damage to my engines and will still need to set the timing after the repair.

Thanks

Marc
 
I have Johnson 1997 twin 60 hp two stroke motors (J60TLEUA). I used the JR method for timing. Starboard engine went good and timing was in range. Port engine was out by 6 degrees. Pulled flywheel to check Woodruff key and flywheel magnets, looked ok. Adjusted the timing screw and then tried to check my adjustment with timing light, but there was no spark on #1, so i changed coil pack got one brief timing flash and then no spark.

Went through the DVA tests per manual for port engine and it indicates that the port stator and timing base is bad ( only 8 V on charge coil of stator instead of 250v +).

For reference I checked the starboard engine and that indicated that the stator was also bad but the timing base was OK.

What could I have done that fried the stator on both motors?


Wired timer base all the way forward, pulled plugs grounded #2 & #3, used spark tester on #1 with timing light. Cranked the engine (also used muffs to protect impeller).

Any help is appreciated as it appears I have done at least $600 dollars in damage to my engines and will still need to set the timing after the repair.

Thanks

Marc



Going to replace parts today any suggestions on how to check WOT timing not using JR method or a test wheel?
 
Have you checked the connectors to make sure a pin didn’t get pushed in? It’s weird that both bases would get burned out. How did you ground it? I always pull my primary wire to the coils so the voltage isn’t even allowed to multiply.
 
Have you checked the connectors to make sure a pin didn’t get pushed in? It’s weird that both bases would get burned out. How did you ground it? I always pull my primary wire to the coils so the voltage isn’t even allowed to multiply.


The tests were very definitive and I triple checked that I had good contact with each pin in the connector that was under test.

I did ground the secondaries of #2 and #3 by clipping a ground wire from spark plug boot to bolt on engine block. It was my understanding that was done as a precaution to avoid ignition of fumes coming out of open spark plug holes.

It was only the base on the port side (the one where timing was out 6 degrees) that failed, but BOTH stators failed dying after the JR method timing attempt.

I did not realize that my engine had the QuickStart feature that Joe Said had to be disabled to get an accurate timing value. Never ran the engines, only cranked them so I don’t think that would be a source of damage, but would invalidate any timing information.

Thanks for responding.
 
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