gavinator68
New member
Hello All,
I have been lurking here for a bit and now need some help.
My situation is as follows:
1989 Johnson GT150 - J150STLCEM
Brief History..........I have a 1994 Hurricane deckboat with the 1989 GT150 installed with the original OEM Remote control that had an integrated warning horn. All seemed to work well, ran all last season without mechanical issue and zero warning horn issues. Now I have a continuous buzzer when I turn the key to the accessory position.
Recent History.......I needed to replace the OLD Remote Control due to a bad TRIM/TILT switch at the handle. I bought a NEW BRP side-mount remote control that came with a separate, TWO-wire warning horn. So I have a pre-1996 engine, pre-1996 wiring harness, and post 1996 Remote Control.
The swap of the OLD remote was pretty straight forward. The only difference in the wiring from the old 8-wire harness and the new 6-way connector was the black ground wire is coded with a white stripe on the new and plain black on the old. Easy enough. Trim/Tilt was also simple.
The new SEPARATE warning horn is a two-wire unit with one purple and one tan wire out the back. I added a small pigtail for the purple wire to give power to the horn and put the tan wire directly to the horn. All should work well. But alas it does not.
After replacing the remote I get a continuous strong buzz from the new horn when I simply turn the key to the accessory position. So I disconnected:
BOTH the PORT and STBD temp sensors at the small bullet connectors.
The 3-way connector that leads to the VRO2 pump assembly.
The black VRO2 tank bullet connector from the tan bullet connector that connects directly to the LARGE RED connector.
Removing all of the connections there was obviously ZERO buzzer noise when I turned on the key to the accessory position. Next, I plugged in the STBD temp sensor and turned the key........zero buzzer noise. Then I connected the PORT temp sensor and still zero buzzer noise.
I thought great!!!! That eliminates the temp sensors. Moving on I connected the single bullet connector that goes to the VRO2 tank and the buzzer turned on as soon as I turned the key. I have the two-wire, black lamp cord style. One end goes to the tan wire and the other is ground to the block. So I thought I would check continuity between those two VRO2 tank wires. ZERO continuity.
I then disconnected the 1-wire to the tan and tank connector I used in the last test.
Then I connected the 3-wire black plug and the buzzer made the same continuous noise as it had been. Being stumped I disconnected the tan wire that goes to the vacuum switch.........still buzzing in the accessory position. HUMPH!!!!
The VRO2 tank is full, the engine starts and runs well, but this darn buzzer is trying to tell me something.
I do not know what to do next. Any thoughts.
I have been lurking here for a bit and now need some help.
My situation is as follows:
1989 Johnson GT150 - J150STLCEM
Brief History..........I have a 1994 Hurricane deckboat with the 1989 GT150 installed with the original OEM Remote control that had an integrated warning horn. All seemed to work well, ran all last season without mechanical issue and zero warning horn issues. Now I have a continuous buzzer when I turn the key to the accessory position.
Recent History.......I needed to replace the OLD Remote Control due to a bad TRIM/TILT switch at the handle. I bought a NEW BRP side-mount remote control that came with a separate, TWO-wire warning horn. So I have a pre-1996 engine, pre-1996 wiring harness, and post 1996 Remote Control.
The swap of the OLD remote was pretty straight forward. The only difference in the wiring from the old 8-wire harness and the new 6-way connector was the black ground wire is coded with a white stripe on the new and plain black on the old. Easy enough. Trim/Tilt was also simple.
The new SEPARATE warning horn is a two-wire unit with one purple and one tan wire out the back. I added a small pigtail for the purple wire to give power to the horn and put the tan wire directly to the horn. All should work well. But alas it does not.
After replacing the remote I get a continuous strong buzz from the new horn when I simply turn the key to the accessory position. So I disconnected:
BOTH the PORT and STBD temp sensors at the small bullet connectors.
The 3-way connector that leads to the VRO2 pump assembly.
The black VRO2 tank bullet connector from the tan bullet connector that connects directly to the LARGE RED connector.
Removing all of the connections there was obviously ZERO buzzer noise when I turned on the key to the accessory position. Next, I plugged in the STBD temp sensor and turned the key........zero buzzer noise. Then I connected the PORT temp sensor and still zero buzzer noise.
I thought great!!!! That eliminates the temp sensors. Moving on I connected the single bullet connector that goes to the VRO2 tank and the buzzer turned on as soon as I turned the key. I have the two-wire, black lamp cord style. One end goes to the tan wire and the other is ground to the block. So I thought I would check continuity between those two VRO2 tank wires. ZERO continuity.
I then disconnected the 1-wire to the tan and tank connector I used in the last test.
Then I connected the 3-wire black plug and the buzzer made the same continuous noise as it had been. Being stumped I disconnected the tan wire that goes to the vacuum switch.........still buzzing in the accessory position. HUMPH!!!!
The VRO2 tank is full, the engine starts and runs well, but this darn buzzer is trying to tell me something.
I do not know what to do next. Any thoughts.