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Is this a decent motor? 1992 VJ140TLEN

S

Smgbad

Member
Hi all. I am in the market for a new motor, as my 86 Evinrude 150 is not going to be repairable. I was looking at something that is inexpensive and would offer a fairly straightforward swap out. The only motor near me that seems to fit the bill is this one. https://raleigh.craigslist.org/boa/d/creedmoor-1992-johnson-140-outboard/7198713553.html

Seems like a good deal as he says it's been rebuilt 2 years ago. All the bolts should move fairly easily I think. He's willing to take me out with it on his boat and help me do the swap out. Any red flags or tips to check before buying? Worth $2k? Looks like it would be able to use the current OMC controller with the red plug.

I bought my current motor as "water ready" and the guy started and ran it for me when I purchased it and the boat, but from the moment I got it home it had all sorts of issues with gas leaks, starting, overheating, you name it... and I never actually even got it in the water before I tried replacing the head gaskets and ended up breaking of 7 bolts in the block trying to remove the port side head. It's just far too rusted to be easily serviceable to a backyard mechanic like me... So I guess I'll scavenge whatever parts that are on it to sell on Ebay to help towards the cost of the next one.
 
Prices vary across the country. To me it seems like a fair price for a good "no problems" motor. I would definitely confirm those compression numbers, and go for a serious test run (at least thirty minutes (so it has time to heat up) of running, starting, stopping, wot, trolling). It should start after only a couple of revolutions. If it has to crank for a while, there is an issue. If it won't idle and let you shift gears without dying, there is an issue.
I paid 1600 for a 1990 90 Johnson, and it has been a good motor for me for a few years now. The only issue I have had is warped plastic carb bowls, which was an easy fix.
 
He said the only thing going on with it is that if you leave the tilt/trim up for a few days it'll slowly make its way all the way back down to the lowest position on its own. Thinking a leak of some sort
 
You need a better discription of "rebuilt". What was rebuilt?
Im in south Texas,that 28 year old motor mite fetch 1500 in good running order,with controls and gauges.
Prices seem to be higher up north.
 
From the seller via email "Everything was within tolerance, so it was honed out and went with new pistons, rings, bearings all the gaskets and Boyson reeds.It was a WSM complete rebuild kit. I may still have the receipts in my email. Then the new ignition parts, the motor had been sitting a few years when I got it so I just felt better going through it to rule out surprises that would trash it."

Also from the ad "complete rebuild kit, new stator, coils, powerpack, rectifier/regulator and a seal kit was installed on the foot with new water pump"

And no, it wouldnt come with the controls, but should (I believe) match up with the OMC with red plug already in the '86 150 I have on it. Hoping that both that and the mounting holes would be the same.
 
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Hard to believe a motor that old would only need a hone. Usually when I find that in the description is because it is already .030 over and nowhere else to go. The Boyesen reeds are also a concern. Try to get the paperwork from the WSM kit. The part # will tell you the piston size.
 
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He got this kit. Says Big Bore (as this is a Big Bore Looper model). Size .040. WSM Johnson/Evinrude 120 /140 Hp Looper '88-'95 Big Bore Rebuild Kit 100-135-10
(Size: .040)
P/N: 100-135-14

Says he used the standard 2 stage composite Boyesen reeds when he rebuilt the carbs.
 
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I would not buy that motor, it is already .040 over for the second time in its life. If it was .030 and he tried honing it .010 to get to .040 that is another recipe for disaster. The boyesen reeds have a life span of about 2 yrs.
 
What is the difference between a normal and a Big Bore model? Isn't it .40 from the factory? Follow up question... If it needs them, how hard is it to just replace the reed valves? I'm only asking because this really does seem to be the only motor that is a fairly direct fit for my setup available anywhere near me, and the guy is being nice enough to help with install (as I have no cherry picker).

Not AT ALL trying to discount your much appreciated observations and opinions on it, but whats the main concern here? Sorr for the ignorance.. I'm just at my wits end with this thing already. 40+ hours labor and $3k over my original budget and STILL havent got a working motor to take my boat out. Only time I ever had it out I had to just use my Terrova trolling motor. So again... sorry for my eagerness to really want this motor to work out... Just not any other options in my area expect sub-100 HP.
 
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Smgbad said:
What is the difference between a normal and a Big Bore model? Isn't it .40 from the factory? Follow up question... If it needs them, how hard is it to just replace the reed valves? I'm only asking because this really does seem to be the only motor that is a fairly direct fit for my setup available anywhere near me, and the guy is being nice enough to help with install (as I have no cherry picker).

Not AT ALL trying to discount your much appreciated observations and opinions on it, but whats the main concern here? Sorr for the ignorance.. I'm just at my wits end with this thing already. 40+ hours labor and $3k over my original budget and STILL havent got a working motor to take my boat out. Only time I ever had it out I had to just use my Terrova trolling motor. So again... sorry for my eagerness to really want this motor to work out... Just not any other options in my area expect sub-100 HP.
Click to expand...
Motors do not come .040 over from the factory!. The first version of that motor came out in 1985 and a smaller bore than yours. After some yrs they increased the bore and that why there are big bore and small bore loopers. The motor you are looking at has been Bored out by a machine shop as far as the block will allow. A little patience on your part might do.you some good. Good luck with whatever you decide I have given you my opinion and it is up to you now.
 
Ok. So if it needs to be bored again it would have to be taken to a machine and cyl sleeves added, correct? Or is the motor just completely gone at that point?
 
Smgbad said:
He got this kit. Says Big Bore. Size .040. WSM Johnson/Evinrude 120 /140 Hp Looper '88-'95 Big Bore Rebuild Kit 100-135-10
(Size: .040)
P/N: 100-135-14

Says he used the standard 2 stage composite Boyesen reeds when he rebuilt the carbs.
Click to expand...
If he only honed it then it have to have been bored out 0.040" and rebuilt before if those are the correct piston sizes.

A lot of people think they can install Boyesen reeds to get more horsepower from an outboard. Those don't make any difference unless you make a bunch of changes to carburetor, timing, porting, decking, etc. Stock reeds work just fine for the life of a stock engine unless they were physically damaged in some way.

KJ
 
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