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impeller stuch in ice (1977 6hp)

coteno

New member
Lucky no damage but this outboard dont drain itself completely even if you store it strait down.
I notice the ice when I change the impeller last week (January 2021).
The impeller was distord but not broken. After the impeller was indoor for a few hours it took is original form and could be reuse.

But be aware cold boaters, those old outboard dont drain completely.

Normand
Québec
 
It helps if you slowly rotate the flywheel right after removing the motor from the test bucket.----They are self draining unless it is so cold that the water freezes before it has finished draining.
 
Yes, let them drain awhile standing upright, then I like to pull them over a few times after I've put a little 2 stroke petrol base oil into the cylinders. Got motors up at the camps, same water pump impeller for 40 years. Why? Maybe I'm stupid, but the old original impellers are way better material than this "plastic" synthetic rubber, they use today. The "recipe" for rubber is way different than what was used 40 and 50 years ago. Next summer, if they let us back to Canada....I'm gonna document.....just for the forum here.....the removal of a 40 year old impeller. My feeling is that once you take out that old original, and replace it with "plastic", then your committed to replace them every 3 or 4 years.
 
Normand, do like Racer & Tim mentioned.
I have a ‘74...After final use I fog the engine,(with fuel line pulled off). When the engine dies, I pull the plugs, spray some fogging oil into the cylinders, & pull it over a few times.
This will turn the impeller, & allow any water to be moved. It won’t hurt anything to have some water remaining, freezing damages when the water is confined fully, & has nowhere to go when it expands
 
Those who know and understand will put a lower unit into the water in freezing temperatures.-----Then wait for any ice in the pump to melt before starting the motor.----Those that use a boat in the winter know to leave the lower unit submerged.
 
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