Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Honda BF150 Prop Shaft Carrier Removal

C

codycat

New member
Hello all, new poster here.

Replacing the seals in the lower unit, and really struggling getting the prop shaft carrier out. Removed the two bolts and have been trying. Tried making my own slide hammer to no avail. How is it supposed to come out? Can I get a long 2 jaw puller to grab the inside edge and pull it against the end of the shaft?

Does the carrier come out and shaft stay in place or does the shaft come out with the carrier?

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Hi,

I've never done a 150 so this ain't the gospel.

But I've done many smaller ones and they are similar.

The propshaft and holder should come out as an assembly with everything behind the dog clutch (item 1 in the link below) held on the shaft by the shifter pin (item 2)


I'm not sure if the shift shaft needs to be removed or repositioned first so you should confirm that before pulling it.

Actually, the ONLY reason I am responding to your question is to WARN YOU NOT TO FORCE the holder from the case. If you haven't cracked the case yet by using a slide hammer, you may surely crack it using a puller.

I suspect that it's simply being held by corrosion and that will need patience and temperance in order to get it moving.

Judiciously applied pressure is what is needed to coax it out without further damage to the case.

Penetrant oil and heat from a high watt heat gun can help but it takes a very long time to work. As in weeks or months sometimes.

Sorry, but it happens to many outboards.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Hi,

I've never done a 150 so this ain't the gospel.

But I've done many smaller ones and they are similar.

The propshaft and holder should come out as an assembly with everything behind the dog clutch (item 1 in the link below) held on the shaft by the shifter pin (item 2)


I'm not sure if the shift shaft needs to be removed or repositioned first so you should confirm that before pulling it.

Actually, the ONLY reason I am responding to your question is to WARN YOU NOT TO FORCE the holder from the case. If you haven't cracked the case yet by using a slide hammer, you may surely crack it using a puller.

I suspect that it's simply being held by corrosion and that will need patience and temperance in order to get it moving.

Judiciously applied pressure is what is needed to coax it out without further damage to the case.

Penetrant oil and heat from a high watt heat gun can help but it takes a very long time to work. As in weeks or months sometimes.

Sorry, but it happens to many outboards.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your response. Unfortunately I found out what not to do. Didn't use a puller, but I did try working it slowly and methodically. But apparently not enough of either. I ordered a new assembly through Babbits, and it says online I should receive in 7-10 days. I'm gonna call Monday to verify to make sure it's in stock. Luckily the starboard motor isn't leaking yet. I think when that time comes, I may take it to someone to have it done
 
Ouch!

Yeah, the corrosion slone can cause enough damage that it can ruin
a case no matter how careful you are.

Taking it to someone is a big gamble too because they tend to be in a hurry to get paid.

Hope it all works out for you though.
 
jgmo said:
Ouch!

Yeah, the corrosion slone can cause enough damage that it can ruin
a case no matter how careful you are.

Taking it to someone is a big gamble too because they tend to be in a hurry to get paid.

Hope it all works out for you though.
Click to expand...
Is it one of those things that just happen or is there something preventative I could be doing? It's s new to me boat, so bot much I could have done to prevent. But should I be disassemble it periodically?

I could tell someone has replaced seals previously as the pry areas were chewed up
 
Get a genuine Honda service manual for your engine. They aren’t cheap, first repair job you do you have covered the cost of the manual in labour saved. I find them handy to determine if I have the skill and tools required to fix whatever is in need of attention.
 
William01 said:
Get a genuine Honda service manual for your engine. They aren’t cheap, first repair job you do you have covered the cost of the manual in labour saved. I find them handy to determine if I have the skill and tools required to fix whatever is in need of attention.
Click to expand...
 
Well....
It's a hard question to answer but I'll give it a go.

The corrosion problem, in my opinion, has a lot to do with the water that you operate on.

Salt water being the worst but "fresh" water can also be bad.

Water is different all over the globe and the minerals that cause the corrosion differ from place to place.

The absolute worst though is leaving the lower end submerged for long periods of time. If the previous owner did that, then that's a glaring mistake.

I can only say that pulling the propshaft holder every few years might help but I don't really know for sure.

Keep in mind that the water is also flowing throughout the cooling system and will be leaving minerals behind too. So, setting up a reliable flush regimen will pay huge dividends in lessening cooling system issues.

Sadly though, the water will eventually take it's toll.

William is right about having a REAL shop manual. If you're interested in getting one here is the link:

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com
 
Here's a ccw (left hand) for a reasonable price in case you might be interested. UPS shipping is reasonable if needed.
Same guy is selling it's right hand mate as well.
I shop the San Francisco Bay craigslist site for used Honda parts all the time because there is a lot there.

sfbay.craigslist.org

Honda BF150 25” (LH) lower unit - boat parts - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

2007-present Honda BF150 25” (LH) lower unit Unknown hours, f/r/n gears shift smoothly Includes shift rod *off govt. owned/maintained vessel
sfbay.craigslist.org
 
jgmo said:
Here's a ccw (left hand) for a reasonable price in case you might be interested. UPS shipping is reasonable if needed.
Same guy is selling it's right hand mate as well.
I shop the San Francisco Bay craigslist site for used Honda parts all the time because there is a lot there.

sfbay.craigslist.org

Honda BF150 25” (LH) lower unit - boat parts - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

2007-present Honda BF150 25” (LH) lower unit Unknown hours, f/r/n gears shift smoothly Includes shift rod *off govt. owned/maintained vessel
sfbay.craigslist.org
Click to expand...
Wow, that's actually a pretty good deal I'd say! When I called babbits today, they said honda was showing 2 in stock. Said to call back tomorrow to see after the order gets in if I get one of the 2. But this is a good alternative if it goes on backorder.

I'm gonna have to think hard about buying the standard rotation just to have it as a backup
 
Just keep in mind that they are 25". You DO NOT want to do a mainshaft swap because they don't match your old ones.
Way more to it than most folks are prepared to deal with.

If "government owned" they've likely had very good maintenance and fairly easy service. But get all the info you can about them before pulling the trigger if you decide to buy.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Just keep in mind that they are 25". You DO NOT want to do a mainshaft swap because they don't match your old ones.
Way more to it than most folks are prepared to deal with.

If "government owned" they've likely had very good maintenance and fairly easy service. But get all the info you can about them before pulling the trigger if you decide to buy.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Yes, I need 25 inch. They are for a Worldcat 246sf
 
jgmo said:
Well....
It's a hard question to answer but I'll give it a go.

The corrosion problem, in my opinion, has a lot to do with the water that you operate on.

Salt water being the worst but "fresh" water can also be bad.

Water is different all over the globe and the minerals that cause the corrosion differ from place to place.

The absolute worst though is leaving the lower end submerged for long periods of time. If the previous owner did that, then that's a glaring mistake.

I can only say that pulling the propshaft holder every few years might help but I don't really know for sure.

Keep in mind that the water is also flowing throughout the cooling system and will be leaving minerals behind too. So, setting up a reliable flush regimen will pay huge dividends in lessening cooling system issues.

Sadly though, the water will eventually take it's toll.

William is right about having a REAL shop manual. If you're interested in getting one here is the link:

Honda Marine | Shop Manuals Publications | Honda Power Products Support Publications

publications.powerequipment.honda.com publications.powerequipment.honda.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link! I previously had purchased a Seloc manual, but they leave out the section on lower unit disassembly
 
In the world of factory service manuals, Honda doesn't provide a really outstanding one. But it's waaay better than the knock offs like Seloc or Haynes and others.

Those "manuals" contain enough errors and omissions that using them could have you destroying your outboard instead of fixing it.
 
A couple more for cheap. But...caveat emptor!

2008 Honda 150hp Outboard + Lower unit + Cover- Parting Out - boat parts - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

For Sale Parting out a 2008 Honda 150hp Marine Outboard. Engine is burning/loosing oils through the piston ring(s). Low compression on cylinders (Let me know what parts you need for pricing) 2009...
sfbay.craigslist.org

I have found, over the years, that most people are pretty honest with this stuff but you have to keep in mind that, often, even the most honest person doesn't know the first thing about mechanics and can BELIEVE something is in good shape when it isn't.

In this ad's case for instance, I would definitely ask for some photos before considering a purchase. If the seller isn't willing to do that or answer some questions about the item then your money is best kept in your pocket.

Also, many sellers can be averse to shipping and may even get hostile about you even asking. Don't take it personally and don't let that stop you from shopping for a deal because there are DEFINITELY some very good ones out there.

It's best to get the shipping question out of the way right up front. I will typically offer to pay all shipping charges PLUS a reasonable fee for someone's trouble.

Often, you will find that "parts flippers" will be fully prepared for shipping and will have a fee structure for doing so already set up. You then just have to decide if it seems fair or not.

Just remember this:
The "GREATEST DEAL IN THE WORLD" comes along about every 10 minutes.
So don't be bothered if you miss an item or feel like something isn't right and you need to move on.


TRUST YOUR "SPIDEY SENSE".
If anything makes you uncomfortable about a seller or their item....take a pass.

Good luck and good hunting.
 
jgmo said:
A couple more for cheap. But...caveat emptor!

2008 Honda 150hp Outboard + Lower unit + Cover- Parting Out - boat parts - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

For Sale Parting out a 2008 Honda 150hp Marine Outboard. Engine is burning/loosing oils through the piston ring(s). Low compression on cylinders (Let me know what parts you need for pricing) 2009...
sfbay.craigslist.org

I have found, over the years, that most people are pretty honest with this stuff but you have to keep in mind that, often, even the most honest person doesn't know the first thing about mechanics and can BELIEVE something is in good shape when it isn't.

In this ad's case for instance, I would definitely ask for some photos before considering a purchase. If the seller isn't willing to do that or answer some questions about the item then your money is best kept in your pocket.

Also, many sellers can be averse to shipping and may even get hostile about you even asking. Don't take it personally and don't let that stop you from shopping for a deal because there are DEFINITELY some very good ones out there.

It's best to get the shipping question out of the way right up front. I will typically offer to pay all shipping charges PLUS a reasonable fee for someone's trouble.

Often, you will find that "parts flippers" will be fully prepared for shipping and will have a fee structure for doing so already set up. You then just have to decide if it seems fair or not.

Just remember this:
The "GREATEST DEAL IN THE WORLD" comes along about every 10 minutes.
So don't be bothered if you miss an item or feel like something isn't right and you need to move on.


TRUST YOUR "SPIDEY SENSE".
If anything makes you uncomfortable about a seller or their item....take a pass.

Good luck and good hunting.
Click to expand...
When I followed up with Babbits today, they said one of those 2 is mine. I should expect it on time between the 11th-17th. It is already on the way to them.
 
Ok, good deal.
I hope that you get it replaced and get great service from it. Let us know how you make out.
 
Back
Top