Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Honda 225 WOT Problem

T

tompass

Contributing Member
I have a problem that began the first time I put boat in water this season. Started and idled fine and would run up to about 4K rpm but would not respond to throttle beyond that. Had local mechanic drain VST, replace all three filters, and pull/check the plugs. Also added some injector cleaner. No improvement at all so called Honda dealer for dock call. Hooked up the computer and told me it was the IAB, air intake bypass valve assembly. Said it was only reading .5v and also stated that there was plenty of fuel pressure to injector rails. Came back and installed the part and now running worse than ever with low speed missing, shaky idle, and can not get much over 2K rpm. Said he was returning today with computer, which he should have had, and will check it out again. Anyone have any thoughts?
 
I would rely on the HDS output from the computer. If that does not pinpoint the problem, I would first look for an air leak in the fuel feed system. It is quite possible that the O rings on any one of the three new filters were misaligned, or one of the filter fuel line connections is not fully seated. Make sure the drain screw to the VST is fully seated. Get a piece of clear plastic hose to match the fuel line from the LP filter to the VST and look for air bubbles. Closely inspect all fuel line connections. When engine is running, make sure you are maintaining pleanty of fuel in the water seperator and LP fuel filter bowls.

BTW - when is the last time the plugs were changed?
 
Before the Honda Tech came with computer, marina mech pulled and inspected the plugs and drained the VST. No junk at all in tank and both hp and lp filters changed. Plugs are original 2003 but have 170 hours on them. When inspected, it was reported that they were all clean.
 
Replace the spark plugs. I can't count the times over my past 35 years of working on all types of engines that spark plugs which look fine are in fact the cause of poor running engines. Heck in 87 I bought a new boat with a brand new 115hp suzuki.... 5 hours of run time it started missing badly and I brought it back to the dealership. Turned out one of the spark plugs had gone bad.
 
OK, is it fixed? , what was the problem? This is the type of thing we all look for in case we have the same type of problem.
 
dear frinde.

1) u need to check the fuek line to crushing line, the most common place is befor the water seprator in the engine.

2) the v tech wil not open (4400 rpm) if ther is alert,high temp,low oil pres, i suggust u to replace the oil and the oil filter.

3) air in the fuel line can do some of the problem that u told ad so u need to check it to .

alex.
 
I'm having a similar problem and saw this same post on another site. Here's the resolution that was posted:

"Last word was bad fuel injector. Also had them clean remaining injectors and
pull and clean VST."
-------
"All fixed but at very high dollar cost. Five injectors cleaned and one replaced.
Six new plugs. VST cleaned although was not really the problem.
Hit 6K RPM with no effort. "
 
I was having a similar problem with my 2002 BF225. At ~4000rpm the engine would hesitate and it would not go above ~4200rpm. After reading this thread and other similar ones, and trying all the easy things (seafoam, fuel filter changes, etc), I was getting ready to call in a professional. Before giving up, I decided to try to replace the lower port plug to see if that would solve the problem (since I only had 1 spare plug and that plug always comes out looking worse than the rest). Changed the plug and took it for a ride, back to 6000rpms and its running as well as it every has.

Thanks to all the contributors to these threads.
 
A fouling lower port plug may be an indicator that the exhaust pipes had not been modified per Honda Service Bulletin #56. Would advise that you get the modification done. Also, keep an eye on your HO2 sensor becaue the unmodified exhaust tubes tends to blow it.

Also, I make it a habit to change plugs every 200 hours instead of the recommended 400 hours. Every time I pull a 100-hour maintenance routine, I pull the plugs, inspect them, and re-install with marine anti-seize grease on the threads. If a plug looks dirty, or blackened, I change it immediately.
 
Thanks for the info on the exhaust pipes and changing blackened plugs. This is my third season with the 2002 BF225 (BAGJ1000429). During my first season, I was getting intermittent O2 alarms and replaced the O2 sensor. No alarms since. I have been changing the 2 lower plugs every year. This one seems to have fouled within ~70 hours.

Is there a way to determine if if SB #56 has been done or do I need to call a Honda dealer and have them look it up?
 
I would recommend that you call Honda Customer Relations on 770-407-6400. There is no record of any warranty ever being done on your motor (with the serial number you gave). It is in the system...but no service history. The warranty people will have to do some research to check for sure. Honda updated their computer system a few years ago and many engines with the vintage of yours did not get all the warranty info transferred.

The Customer Relations folks will research it for you or put you in contact with the right people.

Mike
 
I called Honda Customer Relations at 770-497-6400, option 8, and spoke with a rep. He looked up my serial number and told me no warranty work has been done on this engine for the past 5 years (that as far back as their records go), so I think its safe to assume the repair has not been done. I asked if Honda would consider "good will consideration" for the repair and he said the engine is over 8 years old and too far out of warranty for Honda to provide any assistance, so I'm on my own.

I reviewed the SB (Thanks chawk_man) and see that it recommends replacing the exhaust pipes (larger relief holes, larger mounting surface and reinforced ribs to improve strengh) and oil pan gasket (better seal, additional holes added) to descrease the possiblity of water being drawn into the combustion chamber. The procedure looks fairly invovled (removing under covers, removing lower unit, removing oil pans (21 bolts), etc, replace oil gasket, exhaust pipes, etc and reassemble) with a 2.5 hour flat rate time. From my novice review, the replacing of the oil pan gasket looks much more involved than replacing the exhaust pipes and its not clear to me how replacing a oil pan gasket will stop water from entering the combustion chamber. I know to be safe I should do both, but would I get the majority of the benefit if I just replaced the exhaust pipes?

I
 
Search this forum. About a year and a half to two years ago one of the members posted his process for changing out the exhaust tubes and posted pictures of the whole process.
 
To replace the oil pan gasket, once you remove the exhaust pipes, you just have to remove the oil pan, water tube and oil pickup.

When you put the new one on, it would be helpful to have a second set of hands to hold it in place as you put the oil pickup and oil pan back on. Make sure the positioning studs are in the upper side of the housing so you can be sure to put the gasket on straight the first time.

In other words...I would put the new one on.

The pictures in the post that chawk refers could be very helpful. Also, when you do this, take a lot of pictures along the way, so you know where to put things back.

Mike
 
Thanks again guys. Your comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
I'll attempt this repair after I haul the boat in November and let you know
how I make out. I'll also try to post the condition of the lower
port spark plug when I inspect them next fall. Hopefully the repair
will prevent any related issues and the lower plug will look like the
rest of them (not blackened).
 
Back
Top