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Fuel line replacement on a 1969 800E 80HPe

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Russ696

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Anyone had the chance to replace fuel lines on one of these old 80HP engines, it’s impossible to reach the lower ones, with the middle cowling in the way, the question is how do you remove that middle piece that the electrical connector is mounted on, and will it slide down far enough to let me get at the fuel lines?
Any help or perspective is much appreciated! The SeaLock book is worthless on this subject, nothing at all is mentioned about fuel lines!
 
Disconnect the wires going to the switchbox, the rectifier and the choke solenoid and the wire that connects the manual choke (undo the bolt that goes into the bottom of the rod) also any ground wires - then undo the 2 bolts at the bottom and 2 at the top of the support bracket and it can be removed.
 
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202DB40C-FCCE-4691-9EF9-B403FA7CBB38.jpg322F0CC0-C751-4775-93E3-B226B7E9E83A.jpgI’m not following how removing the support bracket, will help me gain entry, to the side cowl, area where the duel fuel pumps are and the lower hose on the lower fuel pump, and the main line in off the quick disconnect to the upper fuel pump.
 
What about loosening the 3 screws that secure the lower fuel pump?, remove the pump and then remove the fuel line. I know someone on another site that makes the factory replacements with the same fittings if your interested.
 
Russ696 said:
View attachment 28086View attachment 28087I’m not following how removing the support bracket, will help me gain entry, to the side cowl, area where the duel fuel pumps are and the lower hose on the lower fuel pump, and the main line in off the quick disconnect to the upper fuel pump.
Click to expand...
I need to access the side housing, where the 2 fuel pumps are, am I able to loosen the side housing?, and slide it down to access the lower hose on the lower pump, and the Main line in, hose at the front of the engine, that goes to the top fuel pump?
 
No help from the factory 1966-1974 Master service manual. The bottom pan that is giving you the interference challenge to gain access to the lower fuel pump is pretty much sandwiched between the powerhead and drive shaft housing using a large rubber/ foam O ring to support it from vibration and rattles. You are going to need to remove the powerhead to gain access. It's actually very easy to do, just lots of parts to disconnect. You will just need to replace the powerhead base gasket after cleaning the mating surfaces, you will also need some sort of hoist and the lift ring that screws into the flywheel to lift the powerhead out.
 
That's not correct - the lower cowling is supported by the upper cowling mounts, it hangs on them, just undo all bolts that hold the whole thing together it will come apart.
topcowl.jpg
 
So if it's not correct, please provide the solution to his question... I think the powerhead needs to be raised or will the lower pan drop when it is unbolted from the cowl support framework? Answer please..
 
Undo the bolts indicated in this image and any wiring that interferes with reaching the fuel lines. The older motors sandwiched the lower cowl between the PH and driveshaft housing then in 1966 they developed rubber suspended cowlings to cut down noise.
stbside93E3-B226B7E9E83A.jpg
 
The bolts Quicksilver says, and the switchbox wires, the starter, that's to get at the top of the carbs. I also pulled the rectifier and if you can the coil, makes it easier to reach the tank fuel line connector. As well as that, get the same ferrules as it's a PIA if you use standard duple clips. I did this exact job in September. It helps if you have the hands of a child and the strength of superman:D
I will add, there is a plate under the fwd part of the pan which will need to be removed to get where the nuts of the fwd bolts will fall. 5/16th are the three wee bolts holding the plate.
 
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Re: Fuel line replacement on a 1969 800E 80HP

The lines are 52 years old they are cracked and leaking externally from age, but thanks for the thoughts on ethanol!, I have been able to remove the starter and replace the line to the carb behind the starter, I had the small cover off, but was not able to get on those 2 bolts behind them, I think the steering may have to be disconnected, if I remember correctly., I remember I had the cowling wobbling and loose, but dint know what was holding it the rest of the way, from falling down , I know the steer linkage at the front will only let it drop about an inch, but as long as the aft end drops it will help, as far as getting the wiring loose at the switch box, the nuts are so rusted, I may have to wire wheel them with a dremel tool, to get them spin again., but thanks one and all for the encouragement in the correct direction. Russ696.
 
There is no need to remove the steering. There is a recess for the nut under that plate, stops it from turning while you tighten the bolt. If you have a buddy with small hands to turn the bolt while you hold the nut in place until the bolt catches a couple of threads. It is a very tight squeeze. If you remove the coil HT lead and the carrier, it gives you a bit more room. In saying that, I manage it by myself and I ain't got wee hands.
 
The steering arm, passes right under the cowl, I’m trying to remove, so it won’t even drop one inch, and it will be right on thr steering arm. so need to unbolt that and lift the engine off the boat?
 
You dont have to remove steering. All you need to do is : 1) Remove lower trim cover so lower cowl has play..the cover below cowl with 80 decal... 2) remove the 4 bolts shown in post#10..... 3) remove the 2 bolts labeled #33 in post #8 and lower cowl will drop enough to get access to pump. A 5/16 size 1/4 drive swivel socket also helps
 
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