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First engine start in the Spring?

am_dew

am_dew

Advanced Contributor
Given that I did not fog the cylinders in my AQ130C last Fall before laying the boat up for the winter, would it be wise to squirt some oil into each cylinder's spark plug hole and let it penetrate for a while before starting the engine up the first time? If so, what kind of oil?

Thanks!
 
No one? I'm presuming this means that either everyone fogs or else they don't do anything to prep the cylinder walls before the first engine start in the Spring.
 
I would pull the plugs, put a small amount of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, and let sit overnight. I would then rotate engine by hand, then install sparkplugs, and start.
 
crankbait said:
I would pull the plugs, put a small amount of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, and let sit overnight. I would then rotate engine by hand, then install sparkplugs, and start.
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Do I need to be concerned about the plugs being fouled by the oil? Or shall I install an old set of plugs temporarily?
 
after you have rotated the moter by hand, cover the spark plug holes with a large towel, connect the battery, and spin the engine briefly. install the plugs, they will be fine.
 
am_dew said:
No one? I'm presuming this means that either everyone fogs or else they don't do anything to prep the cylinder walls before the first engine start in the Spring.
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Ayuh,.... Foggin' is for motors bein' mothballed for Years, not months,...

I don't fog motors for just a winter lay-up,...
Nor do I oil the cylinders before Spring fire up,...

It usually takes a few 5/10 seconds bursts of the starter for the fuel pump to prime the carb anyways,...
Durin' that time, the oil pump is pumpin', 'n the impeller is movin' water,...
By the time the carb is primed, givin' a couple of pumps, 'n the choke is set,...
It's Ready to fire off, 'n go Boatin',...
 
Suggestion for Next Winter:

After your oil/filter change, and after fuel stabilization, pull the seawater pump impeller and store it.
Do your last engine firing and fogging while the impeller has been removed.
(You/we can easily fog cylinders in 10 seconds)

Do not allow the fogging solution to kill combustion..... instead, ask a helper to cut the ignition for you at/near 1,200 rpm while you continue fogging.
This ensures better fogging solution protection.

This not only helps extend impeller life, but it allows for a quick "dry start" that will blow the exhaust system dry.


.
 
RicardoMarine said:
If your concern is rust scale on the cylinder walls, borrow a bore scope and take a peek. If the engine had been put away correctly, you should see none.
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No so much that, rather it was concern about whether or not there would be sufficient lubrication before the oil pump did its job. I pictured "dry" cylinder walls, rings, etc. for those few engine rotations before the oil pump does its thing.
 
am_dew said:
No so much that, rather it was concern about whether or not there would be sufficient lubrication before the oil pump did its job. I pictured "dry" cylinder walls, rings, etc. for those few engine rotations before the oil pump does its thing.
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Piston Rings are seldom left dry of oil from non-use........... even after sitting for a duration.

The oil pump does not lubricate piston rings.
Piston Rings are splash lubricated via the rotating assembly after the oiling system has done it's job.

IOW.... all piston type engines initially fire up without any fresh piston ring lubrication.



.
 
RicardoMarine said:
Piston Rings are seldom left dry of oil from non-use........... even after sitting for a duration.

The oil pump does not lubricate piston rings.
Piston Rings are splash lubricated via the rotating assembly after the oiling system has done it's job.

IOW.... all piston type engines initially fire up without any fresh piston ring lubrication.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info, Rick. You can probably guess I'm not an engine expert by a long stretch. :)
 
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