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Evinrude Lark III - points shorted when physically open?

S

Screamin283

Member
Model # 35524

Long story short, I have no spark. I replaced the points, condensers, coils, and ALL of the wiring in the engine, and in the boat. Gapped the points to 0.020". Coils adjusted on their bosses per the manual.

For testing purposes, I've been testing for spark using the pull starter and the engine wiring harness disconnected from the key switch harness at the plastic connector, and using an automotive style spark tester set to 7/16".

After doing all that, still no spark. So going more in depth, what I have found is that the points are shorted even when they are open (physically open). However, if you disconnect the wire from the coil to the points, (leaving the kill wire and condenser wire connected) this issue goes away. Disconnecting the black kill wires or the condenser wires from the points have no effect on the problem.

Again, on both sets of points, IF a coil is connected to them, they are electrically shorted when the points are physically open. This can't be right? They are, of course, also shorted when they are physically closed.

I checked for continuity in the coils, and I got 1.7k ohms between two leads and the spark plug...needle (?) where the spark plug wire installs. I'm not sure if this is a good measurement, and my manual doesn't have a specification on it. I've looked at a wiring diagram for my engine, and I have to believe its wired correctly.

So, any ideas or information is appreciated.
 
The points are not directly shorted to ground when the condenser and coil wires are attached, your ohm meter is simply reading the continuity resistance of the coil etc (normal).

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)
Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.
NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.


(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)
To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creats friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.


(Regular Magneto Coils - Continuity Test)
(J. Reeves)
Checking the continuity of the ignition coils....... Have the ohm meter set to High Ohms.
Remove the primary wire from points. Remove the coil ground wire. You do not want either of these wires touching anything.
Connect the black lead of a ohm meter to the spark plug boot terminal, then with the red ohm meter lead, touch the ground wire of the coil.
Then touch (still with the red lead) the primary wire. You should get a reading on both touches (contacts). If not, check the spring terminal inside the rubber boots of the spark plug wire.
If there is no continuity between the secondary circuit (spark plug) wire and the primary or ground, remove the coil from the armature plate, then check the continuity directly between the prong within the coil (prong that the plug wire connects to) and the primary and ground. Poor or no continuity of a coil (or plug wire) is one reason for weak spark, s/plug fouling, or no spark.
 
Thanks for the reply joereeves.

Well, in that case my coils check out. My multi-meter only has one resistance setting unfortunately, and the needle was pegged with the points closed or open (if the coil was connected). So that is how its supposed to read, correct? Other than swapping out points and condensers on a few old cars, I'm not too familiar with these systems.(The cars didn't give me any issues like this outboard has, so I never had to go in depth to investigate a no-spark condition on them).

When I set the points, I did it exactly as you described. I'm pretty sure I read what you wrote there before, either on another post or on another website. The crankshaft had a setting called "TOP" that I set them with.

I also did exactly what you described for coil alignment.

So, if everything is as it should be with the points, I'll button it back up (for the 4th time) and see if I have spark. In the event that I don't, I honestly don't know what my next troubleshooting step should be. I'll post my findings.
 
35524 = 1961 40hp Evinrude.

If you set the points with the word "top" instead of the method I recommended, I'd suggest you double check your settings. The cams that had "top" imprinted upon them usually indicated that they could be installed in either direction, one of which was wrong. If a cam had anything imprinted to indicate where to set the points, it would be a very small imprinted word as I also mentioned previously...... "set".
 
I went out and double checked - as far as I can tell, there is no "Set" position on the cam - only Top with a small arrow. The arrow is at the point where the points open the furthest. Was "Set" imprinted on a different part of the cam than "Top" and I'm not seeing it?

EDIT: I tried to get a picture, but my camera can't take a good close up photo.
 
Last edited:
The "set" mark was normally used on the later model engines, smaller hp now that I think of it. It wouldn't be on a 1961 model.
 
Ahh ok. Well, I suppose everything is ok under the flywheel then - nothing left to adjust or replace. I'll put it back together and see if it sparks. I'll post the results.
 
In not sure if you got my message but it sounds you have your hands full with the help you already have if you want to cut through the bs call me at 850-570-9393 It seems to me this is a form for book smart tecs trying to prove how smart they are. When training a new tec i teach common sence ie cause and effect/keep it simple, 35 years ago a master evenrude tec gave me this valueble addvice now the student has become the teacher i hope to pass along what took over theree decades to learn.
 
And Need To Know Comments "It seems to me this is a form for book smart tecs trying to prove how smart they are".

Really not the most brilliant manner to start off an association with "techs", some of which might just know what they're talking about.
 
Hats off im new at this. it just seems we as techs forget the guy asking for help may not have the equiptment or understand the technical language. your experence is obvious. OFFER STANDS SCREAM283 call me at 850-570-9393 ill walk you through it. all you need is a cheep ohm meter and feeler gauges or a pack of smokes the box is .020 need to know
 
have you checked the ground? its under the armeture plate connects to block . the happolon plug wire and rubber boots on coils need to be inspected/ignition takes its least path of resistence to ground you may not find your problem with a ohm meter.the rubber boots if cracked or split will short to the armeture plate plug wires are between the plate and keeper dissemble to inspect. while apart the black duplex wire/kill wires/ should be replaced lamp cord works perfectly this is oem. when done if only one cylender fires kill wire from vacume switch /rev limiter / disconnect if you have ignition you need to check the spring in the switch.almost forgot befor installing flywheel lightly pry the points cam up remove and inspect make sure its not split.
 
I've got an ohm meter and feeler gauges - I've set a bunch of points on cars before, but never had the ignition problems I am having on this engine. On the cars, I never had any issues - put them in, gapped them, and the car would fire right up. And I know the matchbook trick, used that one when swapping out points in a dark parking lot one night when my distributor crapped out!

Here's a question - how many flywheel magnets does the flywheel have? I was dangling a screwdriver on a string to check the magnets, and it appears as though I only have one. There appears to be a location opposite the one magnet that looks like another one, but it doesn't attract the screwdriver. Is there only one, or should there be more than one?

And Need To Know, thank you for the offer; I may be giving you a call after this weekend if it still won't spark.
 
Need To Know: Kill wires and plug wires are brand new - however, you hit on something I think - the rubber boots aren't there. They weren't there when I got the engine. Perhaps the coils are shorting to the armature plate, as you said? I used tin-coated copper marine wire for the kill wires, and for all the other wires on the engine. (Except the spark plug wires, I used marine spark plug wire for those) For testing purposes, could I just use electrical tape to seal them off until I can get ahold of some boots?

racerone: Thanks for the info! I was thinking there only needed to be one, but I wanted to be sure.
 
Tight lines 283 . Joe sorry for the comment the other evening,i lost my son Joshua recently and after thinking about my comments im imberresed and would like to apoligize.This is a valuable tool and after reading your previous replys i can see how many you helped and how greatfull they are. sincerly need to know
 
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