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Cutting in and out

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gus

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" JoeReeves,
In reading the

" JoeReeves,
In reading the post about Surging Evinrude, you mention cutting in and out which seems to describe the situation with my 89 175 Evin. I ran the continuity tests on the wires. I would actually get a reading but it seemed difficult to get a good contact within the boot with the probes of the ohm meter. In any case I am replacing the whole wire set. Question is should it be that difficult or is this what you mean by intermittant. I actually reset the spring on all the wires and engine ran good for a while but then she began cutting-in-out.
Also when checkin the actual coil what do you mean by "using the ohm meter on the prong you'll see within the coil". Is that from prong to ground? I've ordered a wire set from Boatus (MagStar) by the way, not from the dealer.
Thanks for your input
Gus "
 
hello i have a 1973 evinrude

hello i have a 1973 evinrude triumph 65 hp that seems to be running on only 2cylinders. I checked the plugs and found the lower one not sparking.I have changed the coil for that plug with no change. occasially it will kick in and work for a short period then stop firing again. At full throttle I am only getting 2600 rpm. Reg
 
"Gus.... The difficulty you e

"Gus.... The difficulty you encountered at the spring type terminals is exactly what I was speaking of.

Many plug wires lose their continuity simply because the "spring" terminal that contacts the s/plug is not actually touching the "wire" portion of the s/plug wire. The wire & terminal can usually be removed (and installed) easily in the boot by coating the wire (or boot) with a slight bit of WD-40. I always cut the insulation back slightly so that I can flare the inner wire back on top of the plug wire insulation like a fan, then cut away the excess that may flare past the insulation diameter. I then install the spring terminal into and through the insulation so that the point is pushed into the actual wire and pushed up hard against the fanned out wire. You're guaranteed continuity in the plug wires with that procedure.

To make a tight fit (wire against spring terminal) hold the spring terminal along side the wire, then with the spring terminal end at a 90° angle to the wire, insert the pointed end in to the wire slightly farther back than normal. After that, swing the coiled end in front of the wire so that it is forced against the inner wire.

The plug wires actually screw into the coils. Unscrew a plug wire from one coil, then look into the hole in the coil that the wire just came out of. You will see a prong that has sort of a sheet metal screw appearance. When inserting a plug wire, coat it slightly with WD-40 and screw it into the coil such as if you were tighting up a bolt.

There are three (3) wires to a coil, or two (2) wires and a ground plate... The primary (leading to the p/pack), the secondary (leading to the s/plugs), and a ground. Always disconnect the primary to avoid a false reading. There must be continuity between the spark plug terminal to the primary... and also between the spark plug terminal to the ground wire/plate.

If you have removed the plug wire from the coil, then the continuity would be between the coil prong to the primary.... and prong to ground.

Joe
"
 
"Reg Cook..... On the page pre

"Reg Cook..... On the page preceeding this one, the one that has the titles of "Outboard", "Inboard", "Misc", (whatever), page down to the bottom so that you can list your question under your own title/listing. As it stands here, your question falls under a 1989 175hp "Cuttin In & Out". List yours with a title as you see fit (73 65hp missing), something of that nature, and we'll do whatever we can do for you. Before you do that though.... take a compression check of all cylinders, and check the spark (with the s/plugs out). The spark should jump a 7/16" gap on all cylinders. We have to know what those specs are.

Joe
"
 
" Joe,
I get what you're

" Joe,
I get what you're saying about resetting the "spring" terminal. It was a real "bear" pulling the boots off/on (the WD40 will help). I will use the 90 degree swing technique to get a tight fit.
As far as the coils though, the other end of the spark plug wire just plugs onto the coil on a stub, similiar to the spark plug end.
It looks like its a metal "C" shaped terminal not a "Spring" terminal. I'll have to check the mechanism that attaches this "C" shaped terminal to the wire there. "
 
"Gus.... Sorry about the coil

"Gus.... Sorry about the coil description. I've been involved in a few engine problems whereas the coils were the other type and apparently my thoughts got stuck. You of course have the later model coils which incorporates the tower stud that accepts the s/plug type rubber boot also. The stud would replace the prong that I spoke of in eariler posts. The boot should be slightly shorter that the s/plug boot.... but it should have the same type coil like spring contact within it, not the "Automotive" "C" clamp type contact.

Joe
"
 
" Joe,
Replaced the wire set

" Joe,
Replaced the wire set and did a "bay test" this weekend. Again it initially starts right up and "seems" to power up and then it cuts in and out. Eventually, it runs fine. What's weird is that if I put it in neutral and rev the engine, it seems to help clear up the problem. (I read about the shift safety switch in a previous post and will have to test/disable it).
The flywheel magnets(loose) and stator(leaky) where "fixed" 3 years ago. I haven't looked under the flywheel, yet but will. The powerhead was replaced 4 years ago, but will do compression test.

Also, I'm pushing a 24 ft WellCraft AirSlot, which is pretty heavy, and I've never been able to reach 5000 rpms. I changed the prop a while ago to increase the rpms and it helped, should I repitch again to get to 5000. "
 
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