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Changing -99 BF50A side mount remote control for a top mount?

H

hawgorn

New member
Hello,

I'm having my side console boat converted to have a center console. My trusty BF50A from 1999 has the side mount control box with fast idle&choke lever and indicator lights. The existing control box naturally would have to be installed more or less vertically due to the cables and I'm fine with that except the indicator lights are pointing downwards. I imagine the hidden indicator lights can probably be solved by remounting the lamp assy to dash, or with some other (universal?) indicator light assembly (leds are leds after all..)

But I started thinking about if and when I have to replace the old workhorse. I'd be stuck with the cable routing and control box mounting options even with the new motor. So the question arises, is there any reason why I can't use a more recent top mounted box 06240-ZW5-U40 and the Push to Choke Panel 37452-ZW7-110AH?

Hondapartsnation.com does not list 06240-ZW5-U40 compatible for BF50A LRTA (mine is LRTF, but that shouldn't make a difference here); but I can't find anything about excluding it from https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/marine/pdf/accessories/controls.pdf. And as far as I understand the panel should also work https://marine.honda.com/parts/accessories/categories/key-switches#panels-push-to-choke

I'd appreciate if anybody has any input on the matter.
 
There are a LOT of people using that old side mount box in a center console like position. Think pontoon boat! Mounted carefully those lights can be seen easy enough. Maybe not as well as a stand alone set, but usually well enough. The big thing, from my standpoint, is to be able to hear the buzzer when/if it goes off.

That said, the push to choke panels (there are a couple of them), will work fine as long as you are going with the older style with 2 lights. The newer fuel injected motors use a 4 light panel, and though the old 2 light is compatible, you'll probably want to change to the 4 light when making that move. The controls though, could be reused on the new motors with no down side.

So it's your call. Just know that the 2 light panel compatible with the carbed engines will likely be replaced when going with an injected engine.

Personal 'druthers, my thought is properly maintained, it's going to be hard to wear out the motor you have now..... in fresh water anyway.
 
Thanks for the reply Alan. My problem seems have solved itself, I can't find the 2 light panel anywhere. But as I think of it, I can't see any reason why the electronics could not be pulled from the side control box and installed on a aluminium plate like in the the OEM-panel. I'll have to talk with the mechanic.

Yes, the motor will probably last a long time to come. And the boat too, it is only a 24 year old youngster made of welded aluminium.
 
If you are going with something "custom", which shouldn't be too big a project, I'd highly recommend using a "push to start" ignition switch. WAY easier to deal with than that clumsy high idle/choke arrangement.....

Re: youngster made from welded alum.

Yup!
'99 24' pontoon, 90 hp Honda (fully restored)
'93 22' Lowe deck boat, 90 Honda
'94 19' Grumman deck boat 115 Johnson (fully restored)
'96 17' Polar Craft fishing boat - used to test the many 40-50 hp Honda's I do serious work on as a hobby/something to do/for mad money (mad money that bought most of these boats!).

Big fan of welded alum. here too!
And so I don't appear too eccentric, these boat are spread out between homes in Mi and Fl. -Al
 
Last edited:
Alan Hicks said:
If you are going with something "custom", which shouldn't be too big a project, I'd highly recommend using a "push to start" ignition switch. WAY easier to deal with than that clumsy high idle/choke arrangement.....
Click to expand...

My first thought was to rig the choke solenoid with some kind of rubber protection boot to an aluminium panel with the key/starter switch andt the dual lights part. But yes, a ready made starter is obviously better than a custom contraption. Thanks.
 
I've used something like a waterproof horn button to operate the choke several times. Anything to get it out from the control box. Using one of the standard "push to start" ignition switches available from countless sources makes for an easier install though, and easier to use. Push to start lets you do everything with one hand, while operating the warm up lever with the other....
 
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