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BF50 overheating

T

Tony9th

New member
I recently replaced the water pump and overhauled the carbs. Let the engine idle for nearly 2 hours through the wash port hose connection with no overheating. Took the boat out on the water and it ran good for about 45 minutes at full speed, then overheated and shutoff. Had to get a tow back. When I got home I took out the t-stat and it appeared to be fine. The proceeded to look at the water pump and I noticed the wash port screw was gone. Must have been lose and fell out. Also the water pump looked fine.

Could the wash port screw missing cause the engine to overheat?

If not I need some ideas on what could cause the overheating.
 
Yes, I believe the screw being gone would allow too much water to escape out the flush port and starve the block and head of cooling water as a result. It's easy enough to prove or disprove. Just install the screw and take her for a long run but not getting too far from your mooring.

If I'm right, she shouldn't overheat.

Good luck.
 
I forgot to say that you should NOT allow the engine to get to the point that it was the other day ie: hot enough to shut itself off. Allowing an engine's temperature to elevate to the degree that the EPF (Engine Protection Function) de-powers and, ultimately, shuts down the engine is TOO HOT!

When an engine gets to that point, damage may be occurring.

Prevent damage to your engine by closely monitoring the head temperature with an infrared, non contact thermometer. These can be purchased in many hardware and tool stores...Harbor Freight has them....for a reasonable amount of money. The thermometer is essential for testing and keeping your engine safe while sorting through issues like this. The cost of the tool and the "hassle" of temperature monitoring is nothing when compared to ruining your outboard.

When I say hassle, I mean things like driving the boat and monitoring at the same time. You don't want to have to do that. If troubleshooting requires that you get help, then get some help!
Fixing your Honda should not include endangering yourself or someone else. Which is what we do when we don't get help when it's REQUIRED. Plus, multitasking like that could have you missing crucial info in addition to the danger.

Good luck.
 
Thank you for your initial reply. My original post was from short and to the point because I was on my phone and didn't have a lot of time.

Well, I took the boat out again on Saturday after replacing the wash screw, changing the t-stat, and changing the oil in the engine. The engine started smooth and continued to run smooth for about the first 10-15 minutes. After which the engine started making a clacking sound. I throttled the engine back and had my father help me with boat while I removed the cowling. The sound was coming from the valve cover and after inspection sounded like the valves where being started of oil. We shut off the engine and let it sit for a moment, then checked the oil level. The oil was fine, on the high side of the acceptable range. We restarted the engine and turned around to head home. We slowly idled back to the ramp (less than 2000 RPMs). The valves continued to make the same noise the entire time and right before we got back to the ramp the oil pressure light went off and the red warning light came on. By this time we are at the ramp, so we took the boat out of the water and haven't had a chance to look at it any more.

The only thing that was curious to me was when we were changing the oil (prior to taking the boat), is came out very slow like there no oil but the dip stick showed oil and it continued to drain. It problem took 10-15 minutes to drain the oil from the engine.
 
Well I took the boat out this and the engine gave me trouble again. I checked the t-stat and changed the oil. The oil appeared to be really thick. I waited nearly 30 minutes for the oil to drain. Replaced the oil filter and added new oil. The engine ran good for the first 15 minutes, then the valves sound like they were starting to be starved of oil (tapping sound). I shut off the engine and checked the oil to verify it was in the acceptable range. The oil looked good. So I turned the boat around and started heading back at half throttle. About the time I made it back to the docks, the oil pressure light went off and the red warning light came on. Like I said before I think the top end of the engine is being starved of oil not completely but slowed and based on the thickness of the oil, maybe the oil pickup screen is particially clogged. What are your thoughts. Also is there an additive I can add (seafoam) to the oil to break up any potential sludge followed by another oil change? Thanks in advance.
 
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