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BF30 Neutral Safety Starting Issue

M

Mutinous_Scallywag

New member
Last week, our tender needed a tow because it suddenly wouldn't crank. Turning the key on the throttle box produced no reaction, not even a click.

Yesterday I finally cracked open the throttle box, expecting a neutral safety switch in contact with the throttle lever. But it's actually in contact with the fast idle lever. The lever cam pushes a black plastic pointer, which in turn pushes the plunger switch. But a quick test revealed that pushing the lever wasn't actually doing that.

I put everything back together, and this time pushed the fast idle lever past its natural resting position while turning the key. The motor started.

If that's what I have to do from now on, it's not a huge deal. But it's still weird that it went out of spec like that. Is there an adjustment screw? Did a piece break off the little plastic pointer?

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20230813_121410.jpg
 
Neutral switch is on the motor. You'll find if you bump shift lever backwards and forwards slightly it'll start. Either a cable adjustment issue or stiff cables not allowing shift to drop back into the neutral position properly
 
iang6766 said:
Neutral switch is on the motor. You'll find if you bump shift lever backwards and forwards slightly it'll start. Either a cable adjustment issue or stiff cables not allowing shift to drop back into the neutral position properly
Click to expand...
I tried rocking the throttle previously, as the mothership has the same issue. But no effect. Whether the switch in my picture is the neutral safety switch or something else, I've established that applying pressure to it allows the motor to start.
 
I don't know, never worked on one of these and not sure what remote set up you've got.
I thought neutral safety switch would be engine side too.

However, in the parts list for one remote below, there's a "neutral switch "spacer". Item #34. But, there's then no listing for a neutral switch given???

Anyway, I just wanted to say that, yes, you might be right that something has changed or broken and not allowing the switch to be activated correctly.

The other possibility is that the switch is just worn and needs to be depressed more deeply to work. If that's the case, it either needs a new switch (not available??) or maybe McGiver the end of the button to extend it a mm or two. I have some epoxy that's great for doing stuff like that.

Good luck.
 
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