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Bf20d3

Hi Jim,

First, get your parts ordered. The link below has two kits listed. The "short" (item 1) and the COMPLETE, (item 2). Get the complete kit. It has all you need (except the drive key) to do the job CORRECTLY. Using the complete kit ensures 100% pump efficiency when you're done. If the new impeller is paired with a worn, warped housing/wiper cup assembly, you may find yourself tearing it back down to find out why it doesn't pump so good.

Gotta run....
.....more later.


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...F20D3 SRTA/WATER PUMP IMPELLER KIT/parts.html
 
Do yourself another favor and order a new drive key. Even though your old one might not look worn, it IS. And a tiny bit of wear will cause you problems if you choose to re-use it. It could even damage your main/vertical shaft if you get real unlucky. (Item 24 in the link below)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...SRTA/WATER PUMP VERTICAL SHAFT (1)/parts.html

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2003/BF20D3 SRTA/GEAR CASE ASSY/parts.html
The link directly above shows you the gear case, minus the propeller. That's the part of the ouboard that has to be removed to access the water pump. You may leave the prop in place for this if you want but I always take it off to get it out of the way and protect it too from being damaged. It is also good practice to remove the prop so that you can take off the thrust washer and examine it for wear. While doing this, you will, more than likely, find fishing line wrapped up around the prop shaft. This is THE #1 CAUSE FOR PROP SHAFT SEAL FAILURE. Any wear to the thrust washer is cause for getting rid of it. I have a BF 20 D and I keep 2 spare thrust washers on hand at all times.

Got to go again.....more later.
 
This will have to be my last post for a day or two because I'm having surgery in the morning. But "AH'LL B BAHK"!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...20D3 SRTA/GEAR CASE EXTENSION CASE/parts.html

The link above depicts the gear case separated from the extension case. The reason I send you this is that it shows the 5 bolts you need to remove to drop the case. There are 4 bolts up front (items #12) and one bolt in the rear, (item # 15).

But, before you remove those bolts, you need to uncouple the lower shift shaft from the upper shift shaft.

You must shift the outboard into reverse to expose the shift shaft connector nut and the jam nut that keeps it locked in place. You have get low and look for the shaft at the front of the gear case. Once you locate the nuts, you need two 10mm open end wrenches to hold the connector nut and loosen the jam nut.
Once the connector nut is loose, turn it clockwise so that it travels upward on the upper shift shaft and eventually releases the lower shaft. Once that is done, you may remove the 5 bolts holding the gear case and wiggle and pull and work the gear case away from the extension case. The mainshaft will slide out with it and you may need to tilt the outboard up to make it clear. You will then be able to work on the water pump.

Refer to the link below for items 11, 12, 13 and 30. Those are the upper and lower shift shaft sections and the connector and jam nuts.


http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...SRTA/WATER PUMP VERTICAL SHAFT (1)/parts.html
 
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