b80 Evinrude 35hp backfires when cold also no start Joe

[Peter Cronin]

" Two problems.
When first st

" Two problems.
When first started, my electric-start 35 hp sort of backfires (it kicks, almost stopping, then picks up to fast idle again) numerous times before it finally settles into a fast idle.
The colder it is (ambient temp) the worse this seems to be.
Is my choke sticking, or something? Or is this normal and nothing to worry about?

Second: The other day everything ran smoothly, docked the boat, then when it was time to go, nothing, nada, from the ignition switch. I couldn't hear the choke solenoid click, the motor wouldn't turn over; a quick check with the test light on the back of the switch showed no juice, but the battery was fine.
I then took off the engine cover, and used the starting rope to spin the engine. With the key turned on, the engine started immediately. It has since been started numerous times with the key, no problem.
Is this a problem with the ignition lock-out? (I don't even know what this is or how it works, but was told by a handy buddy that there is a lock-out somehow associated with the position of the flywheel, or something). This information was the limit to his handiness.
I just need to know if this incident is an indicator of a problem 1) I may be capable of dealing with, and; 2) that I should do something about before something blows up or we're stranded up that proverbial creek.
As always, thanks for your help. "

 

[joereeves]

"Peter.... The "kicking&#3

"Peter.... The "kicking' and "backfiring" as you call it may be what I would call having the engine spit back. This is usually due to a fouled or/and misadjusted carburetor. You can try the adjustment procedure listed below but if that doesn't cure the problem, I'd suggest that you remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor.
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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The no power problem may be caused by the neutral safety switch. If you're using a remote control box, that switch is uusually incorporated within it. If this is the case, holding the key in the start position and wiggling the throttle lever slightly back and forward would cause the neutral safety switch to engage and the starter to operate.

However, the neutral safety switch would simply pertain to the electric starter circuit and nothing else. It would not interfere with the electric choke etc. I would suggest (even if they appear clean and tight) removing the battery cables, clean them and the battery posts, then re-install them, tightening them with a wrench or pliers, not your fingers.

Joe

"