Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Alpha shift cable core question - pinch screws are damaging the cable core - about to pinch it in two- contemplating a fix

woodbender

woodbender

New member
Hello everyone, my first post here. THANK YOU ALL for such great information.

Please excuse the newbee question that's probably been asked 110 times. I couldn't find good info in the search.

The pinch screws holding the shift inner core have been tightened enough times to just about cut the core in two. I'm exaggerating a bit - it's more like crushed into an hourglass shape where the screws are. I'm concerned it will fail.

I'm thinking that I could nibble off the end of the cable just enough to have a new spot for the cable end pinch screws have a new purchase - 1/8" +-, then re-adjust to the 6" center to center.

Would this work?
 
Hello kghost, thanks for the comment. My first question and you're disgusted with me already! :oops:

I discovered the situation with the cable end while following your excellent instructions for adjusting my shift cables.
Shifting GREAT now, thanks to you.

I read in one of your posts that problems in this area with set screws is quite common.

So am I just being a worry wort? (I'll post a photo when this rain stops. I'm just north of San Diego, CA.)
Is there a fix for this short of replacing the cable and the housing?
Can you enlighten me a bit about why this would not work?
 
That portion of the cable if a newer style is mostly if not completely solid.

Either way, it is common to create a pinch point. In order to pull the inner cable out the deformed area must be carefully filed smooth/round and/or pinch with pliers to get back to round again. If you dont the inner cable will not pull out.

All that being said, if it is not broken dont "fix" it.

If you need to replace the cable, the only thing to do it buy new.

The cable has a vedy specific lenght so cutting it shorter will alter the designed overall lenght of travel.

I have never cut one and readjusted to determine if it will work.
I have and will only replace with new when the short shift cable is suspect or damaged
 
Thank you kghost.

Yes, the correct way to handle this issue is replacing the cable. I do understand that.

And yes, I can see it would be impossible to remove the inner cable with this flat spot. If it comes to replacing the cable, that advice is priceless. I doubt I'd have thought to do that.

This is an old boat new to me. Apparently a lot of people have had their way with her. The screws have obviously been tightened, maybe over-tightened, many times. I've done enough mechanical work to realize there is that 'one time too many' that Murphy seems to love.

I'm wondering about how shortening the tip of the cable an eighth or so would affect travel the length of travel. The cable has roughly 1/2" of play. So wouldn't this process just take-up 1/8" of the play? Is there a minimum amount of play?

For context, I totally understand this is something you would NEVER do on a customer's boat. I just try to gather as much information as I can before I do something like this. I try my best to figure out what I don't know.

Thanks so much for your input.
 
Its not the travel, its the position relative to the travel. By shortening the cable, you will loose positioning at the shift linkage at the gimbal housing.
 
The shift linkage is "clocked" based on the cable length not the travel distance of the cable. The travel distance is controllled by the primary shift cable movement from shift control box.
The Short cable adjustment is to set up the correct travel to match control cable and engage F/N/R. If the short cable is to short or to long the linkage at the gimbal housing will be out of postion.
 
Yes, I see, the shift lever is like one of the hands on a clock. If I'm following you, this would be equivalent to setting the clock at one when it's actually noon.

That, Sir, is profoundly useful information.
 
IF the threaded shaft on the short shift cable had enough threads what you suggest may work. But I dont believe it does.

By adding another 1/2" - 3/4" of threads you then could relocate the shift arm (F shaped piece) where it needs to be for proper F/N/R
 
Ok.... I'm going to go sit in the bilge with the engine cover off and contemplate this whole thing for a bit. (I've learned the hard way that when I get some nutty idea in my head, I do nothing for a while..)

I really appreciate you taking the time.

One more thought... and I mean this in the most complimentary way..... your avatar is REALLY creepy... 😱
 
What is truly CREEPY IS,
How many people buy old used boats to save a buck and try to nickle and dime fixing it correctly.

If anyone who knows little to nothing about boats should be buying newer or new boats that are 100% operational.

Learn to enjoy boating vs learning to fix other past owners F ups.
 
You've hit the nail on the head, as usual. When we take on a project like this (a 40-year-old boat with a frozen engine), there are several aspects to it. One, of course is how much fun it is to take my wife and the dog out for a boat ride. (Dog loves in on the bow..).

Another aspect, for me personally, at least, is the challenge of bringing a machine like this back to life despite whatever her history might have been. When I heard the engine fire up for the first time it was a great thrill - and well-wroth the cost and effort. There's great satisfaction in hearing her purr like a kitten whether or not we're actually out on the ocean. To give you some idea, I've named the boat Second Chance.

Getting insights from someone as knowledgeable as yourself makes the process all the more fun.
 
On second thought and a closer look, I'm going to leave the cable as is.

Could I ask to have you look over the three shift lever positions please? Forward is at noon, neutral at 1:00 o'clock, reverse at 2:00 o'clock.

Do they look ok?

Your input helped immensely in figuring out what to do, or in this case, what not to do.

cable.jpgfull fwd.jpgneutral.jpgfull rev.jpg
 
In the pic Full Fwd

The vertical shaft with the upsidedown U shape, it looks like it has been spread out a bit. Usually from trying to remove drive when not in Fwd gear and forcing it out.

Get some good strong pliers and sqeeze it together a little bit so the bronze shift arm in lower fits snuggly into the U shaped shift shaft end.

It is very tough to do, the U shaped piece is very strong.
 
Fwd is at noon
Neutral is at ~ 11
Rev is at ~ 10-9:30

The description is from looking from the back of boat looking forward and down at shift linkage
 
Yup, got it. I'll squeeze the U a bit to narrow the slot and fit to the shift arm without so much clearance. I've done things like this before using vise grips tightening the adjuster screw just a tiny amount between squeezes.

Yes, I see I was visualizing the clock differently. Thanks again.
 
Back
Top