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'91 60hp Hard to Start When Cold

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papafrancisco

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I read MANY posts on the subject and have gotten a lot of good information. Problem: The motor eventually will start at WOT. I no longer engage the primer solenoid when starting however I do engage the ignition primer switch three times. My question is where should the throttle be for a normal start? When I push the throttle forward (when starting), there is a dead zone before there is any rersistance. With the motor shroud removed, I noticed the linkage does not move until I get past this dead zone. Is this the motor idle zone? Should the motor start in the idle zone or with more throttle? I also noticed the linkage does open the butterflies until closer to WOT. I noticed the large black plastic cam is not in contact with the small black dowell for engaging the butterflies. The arrow on the cam does line up with the aforementioned black dowell however if does not contact the large cam. Should the cam contact the black roller dowell when throttle is at home position? BTW the primer solenoid is in auto/normal position. The primer solenoid was checked by removing the hoses to carbs and the switch engaged. Solid gas flow from both ports.
 
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hard to start have you checked your flywheel key ,im not sure what year the newer flywheel was introduced hower the timing hub had a tendecy to slip causing this very problem. the newer flywheel looks like a frisbe the older one was flater on top. good luck id like to know what you find.
 
At idle the throttle plates MUST BE CLOSED !!!!-----------------------The cam does NOT CONTACT the roller at idle on a motor in good condition.-----------------------Throttle plates do not open fully on most outboards untill after ignition is fully advanced.-----------------Some of these adjustment just " look wrong " to many folks , when they are correct !!!!
 
Tried the following using earmuffs:

Linkage for openning carb butterflies - Move the small roller dow onto the larger cam at the arrow (loosen screw and moved)

Moved the throttle slightly above idle position.

Pushed primer on ignition 3 times with about 5 sec dwell.

Results - Started up MUCH better however smoked (again using muffs, maybe a little flooded).

Anyway it appears I'm slowly eliminating the simple things i.e. did not have to go to WOT!
 
Thanks Racerone. The throttle plates are closed at idle. I will defintely put this back. I moved this approx .030 off the cam (feeler gauge) BTWm what position of the throttle i.e "gear shift like device by the steering wheel for lack of a better description" do you define as idle? Is this the zone when starting that the linkage does not move?
 
Most control boxes have the lever straight up and down for nuetral-- ( pictures )----------------first bit of motion shifts it and no throttle is applied.-----------------Most have a lever for throttle only as well.---------------Do you have an owner's manual for the motor ??.----------------Do you hold the key pushed in while cranking ???-------------Do you give it plenty of " throttle only " for starting.
 
No, I no longer use push the key in while starting. I believe I am flooding by doing this. As I mentioned in previous posts, I now push in 3 times for 5 sec each and then start. I do not give it WOT however I do move off of idle.
 
There must be something wrong !!!------------You hold the key in ( activate the primer ) when cranking it over to start.----------And push the key in as needed to keep it running till it warms up !!!-----------Owners manual would outline the starting procedure for your motor.
 
dealing with a 1990 60 horse johnrude myself. cold it needs a push (fuel enrichment if you will) of the key while cranking. it will fire then quit. no more push of key but put up on high idle and crank it will fire and run. if throttle is backed down to far or to quick it will stall. repeat from the start and good to go. i know this is not the way it should be but it is what it is. it will idle in gear (rpms ? but not fast at all) all day and never miss or load up. new timer base, cdi box, stator, and plugs. i was told gap between roller and cam to be .050 and 6 to 8 degrees but havent checked. our used motor has 125 psi on all 3 and is abit fussy cold but runs out supreme. we run a pontoon where only air boats go and love the isolation from the rest of the crowd. i suspect sync as the rpms creep up/down a bit after throttle has been set in a certain spot but we are still tweekin it in. we have been with no starts but never stranded. the second happiest day is way far away. the rectifier has been acting up all along on and off the whole time making troubleshooting hit and miss as well. dont give up
 
Holding the key IN (activating primer solenoid) while cranking will in most cases flood the engine.
Just press the fuel hose bulb firm, key 'ON' then a couple of times push in for a second or two and crank. As soon as engine starts, if no quick start, it might be needed to shortly push the key in a couple of times until warm.
 
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