Logo
FULL SITE MENU

70443 1974 Hustler

J

JimBe937

New member
Hello!

I bought a 1974 MFG Gypsy with a 70443 Hustler engine. This boat has had two previous owners and they both took very good care of the boat. The previous owner said the carbs didn't need rebuilt, but when taking it out the engine would run fine at idle and high speed for a while and then start dying at idle.

Carb rebuild kits were included with the boat so I took them apart and rebuilt them. I did find some chunky stuff in 2 of the high speed jets and the bolts behind two of the low speed jets were very loose. Cleaned all passages with carb cleaners and buttoned it back up.

The previous owner had removed the electric choke spring and plunger because he said it quit working and doing it manually worked fine for him. I like things to work how they're designed to work, so I installed the spring and plunger on top of it and then connected the spring thing coming off the plunger top to the middle carb place it should go from what I have found. I push the toggle switch on the control and it pulled the plunger in, but didn't close the chokes. I am going to try adjusting the solenoid, but what pushes the carbs back open when you release the toggle switch? Is these a spring that should be somewhere?

Thanks!
Jim
 
Yes, there's a wound spring on the shaft that the butterflies are mounted to. Or, there should be. When you close the butterflies with your finger, they should close back up, right? Actually, as the diagram attached shows, it's not a wound spring, but #21 is the spring that makes the choke close. Also, when you clean the carbs, be sure to remove the plugs #4 and #5 to clean all the passages under those plugs. Drill a small hole in them and then screw a small screw into the hold ane pry them out. The kits come with replacements.
 
Oldsaltydog said:
Yes, there's a wound spring on the shaft that the butterflies are mounted to. Or, there should be. When you close the butterflies with your finger, they should close back up, right? Actually, as the diagram attached shows, it's not a wound spring, but #21 is the spring that makes the choke close. Also, when you clean the carbs, be sure to remove the plugs #4 and #5 to clean all the passages under those plugs. Drill a small hole in them and then screw a small screw into the hold ane pry them out. The kits come with replacements.
Click to expand...
This first picture isn't from my boat, but this is what it looks like for the most part, but the spring at the front of the plunger is like the one in the second picture. My middle carb does have that wire which is attached to the switch that lets you choose between Open, Automatic, and closed. I'm assuming Automatic means you will be using the choke switch on the control, since it doesn't appear my engine has the built in automatic choke. Anyway I'm not sure what that spring does, but it doesn't seem to pull mine open that I can tell. I'd love to see a video of this system working, but have yet to find one!
 

Attachments

  • Choke-1.JPG
    Choke-1.JPG
    63.4 KB · Views: 8
  • Choke-2.JPG
    Choke-2.JPG
    17.6 KB · Views: 6
Choke solenoid need to be positioned / adjusted for proper operation.-----There is also a spring thingy that holds choke flappers from bouncing at full throttle operation.
 
flyingscott said:
Those are pretty touchy on the adjustments so try moving it.
Click to expand...
So I pushed the solenoid all the way back and it just causes the spring to stretch out when I hit the switch. I attached pictures of my setup and it looks proper. The choke moves very easily by hand so I don't know why it's not working. It's like that spring is too light. The last picture is on Automatic and I did notice when I turn the key to On it does engage the solenoid partly without my hitting the switch. Does that mean my engine does have the automatic choke that will close and open as the engine warms up? When I hit the button it pulls the plunger even further back, but again just stretches the spring.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6395.JPEG
    IMG_6395.JPEG
    607.2 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_6396.JPEG
    IMG_6396.JPEG
    611.9 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_6397.JPEG
    IMG_6397.JPEG
    612 KB · Views: 7
flyingscott said:
sorry that is the correct one I was looking at the other pics. Have you checked for 12 volts at the coil? Take the center out of the choke coil and put a screw driver in and see if the magnet is working.
Click to expand...
I'm not so sure. I ordered one that will be here Monday.

I have the solenoid all the way back and you can see the plunger is pretty far forward. In the second pic I have the engine in the on position, but not running and the plunger is pulled back a little. In the third pic I have pushed the choke switch and the plunger is all the way in the solenoid, but the spring just stretches! The choke movement is very light! You can touch it with you pinky and it requires little force. So I'm hoping a new spring will help. Also, if the solenoid pulls the choke closed, what causes it to return to open when it's released?
 

Attachments

  • Capture-3.JPG
    Capture-3.JPG
    32.5 KB · Views: 2
  • Capture-4.JPG
    Capture-4.JPG
    41.6 KB · Views: 2
  • Capture-5.JPG
    Capture-5.JPG
    38.4 KB · Views: 2
It is FIXED!!! Goodness gracious!

I didn't expect this to become such an issue for something that appears to be so simple!

Today I got the new spring and it was in fact the same as the previous spring. $10 down the drain! SO I continued tinkering with the carbs and choke linkage. I noticed when I disconnected the linkage to rebuild the carbs that the center carb really wanted to open on its own, so I removed the linked from the top and bottom carbs and sure enough, the middle carb would open on its own when I closed it. This was an ah-ha moment for me! I hooked the linkage to the upper/lower carb and sure enough they both wanted to open up fully if I closed them let go. I was hooking up the middle/lower carb and it was not fitting well at all and would cause a bind that did NOT allow them to fall open once you close them with your finger! After a short examination it all became clear. The middle/lower carb linkage was upside down and after I removed it I couldn't even replicate how it had been hooked up without fear of bending the metal! After putting it in properly, all three carbs would hang open with the help of gravity. This also freed everything up enough which allowed the automatic choke to work properly! I was so excited!

Turning the key to the on position now causes the choke to snap closed. I haven't tested with water to see if it opens once it warms up, but that's coming soon!

However, in the spirit of full disclosure, I may have caused this issue myself....or not. I don't have evidence one way or another since I don't have pics of this setup BEFORE I rebuilt the carbs. What I do know is that the previous owner had removed the plunger and springs from the solenoid because he said it quit working after some work was done on the control.

I really hope this helps someone else at some point as I did a lot of Googling and documentation finding without finding the answer.

Thank you all for your input on this issue!

Jim
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6426.JPEG
    IMG_6426.JPEG
    604.7 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_6427.JPEG
    IMG_6427.JPEG
    648.1 KB · Views: 2
Back
Top