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59 18hp

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bigtrout29

Contributing Member
Hey guys working on a friends 59 18hp fd13 fired runs great but has a weird sound almost like a misfire sounds like a pssssh also fires up first turn of the key.new points coils and condensers.the timing is bang on couldn't get it any closer any suggestions would be great Thank you
 
Yes it has an air silencer would that make it do that.when it makes the sound it kinda shimmies alittle nothing drastic just don't it to blow
 
I haven't had a chance it is 630 am where I am don't think the neighbour's we be happy I will try tonite and let u know I was messing with it a bit last nite and it calmed it down not as bad as it was the first time it started maybe just need alittle more fuel
 
2 hose pressure tank and fuel/air lines not leaking??? Cap secure and not leaking???? Can you be a little more specific on the Pssssh sound?
 
The tank is a 2 line has a couple little cracks and the top of the tank leaks alittle air. The sound almost sounds like an air blaster that would go on a compressor. But not a high pressure air blast
 
The tank and hose MUST not leak with the cap tight and motor running.------------Cap is to be tight for operation of the motor.
 
Hey guys been awhile been crazy busy so I pulled out the motor and resealed the tank and lines and still make the sputter sound then dies I was looking at the armature plate aswell and I read that the 2 marks are to be straight back at full throttle and they are not would this cause my spitting problem and hoe do I correct it thanks
 
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 
Did all of that and still no change unless the carb is gummed again had the needle all the way out to were I could have pulled it out and no change and it was allready rebuilt
 
I didn't us a timing light just a gap tool set points at .20 but when they are saposed to open up does not line up with the two lines on the armature plate is there a way to adjust the plate abit to et those to line up
 
When the timing marks line up that is when the points start to break,so your .020 will come slightly after when they are fully open.
 
Ok thank you but when my points just start to break the line on the fly wheel is about 3/4 of an inch out side the 2 lines to the left that's what my concern is I will have to look and see if there is a way to adjust the plate so it sets up bettee
 
You have the advantage on having a points gap window on the flywheel. Connect a timing light on any 12v battery and put it on the top plug wire and start the motor point it at the two lines on the side of the points plate. The single mark on the flywheel should be inbetween the two marks on the plate. Do the same for the bottom plug wire. To adjust the timing you adjust the points gap wider or closer depending on what side of the two lines on the points plate the flywheel mark is. To adjust engine sync there is a mark on the throttle cam you want the carb to just begin to open as that mark passes center of the roller. Being out of sync could be the coughing noise its making. I have a large alligator clip with a long wire attached, clip that on the throttle shaft on the carb and from slow slowly advance the timing while watching the wire. The wire should just begin to move as the line on the cam passes center of the roller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/THROTTLE-CA...ash=item461acfdd62:g:00sAAOxyYSdS~oEt&vxp=mtr
To make that adjustment loosen the two screws holding the cam on the plate and adjust the position of the cam and check it again until you get it close to exact with the wire. Once the timing and sync is correct you will find the carb will be alot more responsiv and you can idle down to a crawl.
 
thanks Kim I will have to try and sync it and all the o rings are new spent alittle coin on parts as it was sitting in a barn for who knows how long.i was trying to post some pics but it wont let me should the 2 lines be dead center of the carb because this are over to the left abit thanks again for all the help guys sorry to be a bother
 
Are you talking about the two marks on the points plate if so the answer is read my last post. Those two marks are for ignition timing it dont matter what position they are the line on the flywheel needs to be inbetween those two marks. There are two marks on the flywheel 180 degrees out one for each set of points. You can adjust point gap through the window on the flywheel, just be sure and clean the feeler guage good with acetone or rubbing alcohol. wider retards the timing and closer advances the timing.
 
Always thought the 2 lines are saposed to be dead center of the motor least that's what I did when I rebuilt my 73 9.5 and it runs like a champ
 
Hey guys thanks for all the help. I had to remove the plate again and rotate it abit now the line on the fly wheel is dead center of the 2 lines on the plate haven't had a chance to fire it yet to see if the help my problem or not so hopefully.noticed now when it is in forward at wide open the shift locks sit in there respectful location on the plate were it didn't before and the carb goes wide open thanks again
 
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