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2009 bfp60 / 480hrs / 1st time in 14y it has not started

Hi Pete,
Love your "handle"....it's....well....bitch'n ;>)

You probably won't be happy with my answer but here goes anyway.

There's no easy way. You either need an injector bench tester rigged up to specifically test those injectors or....and I hesitate to say this....
....it might be possible to pull the fuel rail and spray them in a container. BUT...
That's dangerous because;
1. The injectors wouldn't be secured and are likely to pop out and have gas spraying everywhere and...
2. Well....see 1.

My point is that if you think the injectors are the issue, it's probably wiser to send them out for cleaning and testing or simply replace them. But first...

....What testing have you done to make you suspect them?

Have you tried firing the engine on alternate fuel? Propane works great to prove/disprove fuel starvation.

Do you know they're even getting fuel?

Are they being powered at the connectors?

Have you listened to them to see if they're clicking while cranking the engine?

Have you tried using a noid light to see if the ECM is firing them?

Is there spark while cranking?

Those aren't all the ways to check injectors. Just listing some things that are commonly done to troubleshoot.

Good luck.
 
hello jgmo...
regarding the testing ive done up until now...

- I've checked the supply of fuel from the water separator, through both low and high pressure pumps (it still hums), into the fuel "rail".

- it has good ohhmmeter returns for the injectors (10 ohms) while in the cylinder head.

- it also has voltage to the each injector of 4.75 - 5.25volts.

i can't tell if they're clicking because the cranking engine is too loud. i didn't think of the noid light. there is a spark, but its yellow-ish.

-5volts found at MAP sensor, TP sensor, trim&rudder sensors and the O2 sensor.

the last 20m of it running...
on sep15th, my buddy and i wanted to go fish for silvers. i put my boat in the water, tied it to the dock and started the motor to warmup. after about 20m, we got in the boat and my buddy cast us off.
when i went to throttle up, it died. i restarted it and put it in gear. when i was throttling up, it sounded like it backfired once before it died a second time. it wouldn't start again after that and hasn't started to this day.
 
Please understand that I don't have any service information for this outboard so what I am saying is a GUESS on my part.

I'm GUESSING that 5 volts is much too low to fire the injectors. My GUESS is that they need 12 volts supply voltage to reliably operate.

I have never known any fuel injector to operate on 5 volts.
But please do NOT. apply 12 volts to them as I don't know for sure. Verify anything I say because I am GUESSING.

Also, check supply volts to your coils. I'm GUESSING that it may be low as well.

This might be a main relay problem. But I DON'T KNOW.

Good luck.
 
you're correct on the voltage (my bad) it is 12 volts. i got carried away with what the sensors run at. you did give me an idea however. the main starter relay.
earlier this year, i blew out the #2fuse. apparently, when hooking up the battery, i forgot one ground wire that was hanging in the bottom of the boat.

i didn't think of checking that🤞
 
Hope you find the problem.

As to listening for the injectors clicking while cranking, a mechanic's stethoscope or a thick wooden dowel held against an injector and to your ear sometimes works well.

Good luck.
 
hello jgmo,
(i got the username came from an old cheech&chong skit entitled "lets make a dope deal")
as for my engine, i checked out 4 of the 8 terminals on my starter relay and it tested "continuity" with 12v attached and "no continuity" without 12v. which is correct. i then repeated it with the other 4 terminals. it passed. I'll attach a (low-res) video that shows the MIL codes that I'm getting. if you wouldn't mind, I'd like to get your interpretation of the codes. thanks for letting me welcome you to my nightmare

pete
 
btw, this post caught my eye...

BF 130 Main Relay???

Help! Need some advice from a Honda smartperson. I have a 2003 BF130A3LA. Ran great until I spent 90 minutes removingmarine growth from it with a scrubby. Tilted it down and it started right up and ran for 30 seconds andquit. Squirted ether into the intake andit started immediately, i.e...
www.marineengine.com
 
Ahhh! Creech and Chong! I remember the LP "party records" and "Up In Smoke" and "Nice Dreams". Two of my all time favorite movies. I have to watch them both again!

And a post with the Great hondadude too! Loved that guy!
He seemed to know everything Honda and helped so many people here....including me. Miss his presence here a bunch.

Too bad that post didn't have a resolution.
You have to be careful too about doing electrical testing based on a different outboard because it would be easy to fry something expensive. But you probably know that.

Are you using a shop manual? If so, you should have the wiring diagrams.
You sound like you have some mechanical background. Do you have experience using wiring schematics?

I wish I could afford all the shop manuals so I could be of more help here but NOPE, don't have the cash.

That post you sent does raise some very good points though.
Like the lamps coming on briefly and then going out. And, the fuel pump running briefly with key on then stopping.

Let me back up....
Is your outboard a remote control or tiller? And, just what sort of information/warning lights do you have?
If you have the manual, you should read the fuel injection operation section and go through the trouble charts.

Sorry, plenty of questions...with no answers but....
....that's part of the nightmare!
I don't mind being in it though. :unsure:
If nothing else, I can offer bad ideas that you can shoot down and maybe something will click for you in the process.
 
Yeah, I know, it's frustrating.

Hey! Just went back over what you wrote before about the testing you did. I missed the fact that you said that you measured 5 volts at the O2 sensor. If that's correct, that doesn't seem right to me.
Again, I don't know what the O2 heater voltage should be but I don't think it's 5 volts.
And, there shouldn't be any volts on the other sensor wires while cranking cold. You may want to look at that again.
5 volts registering where it shouldn't be sometimes indicates that the reference circuit is connected (shorted) to that test point. Usually due to wire chafing in the harness someplace.
 
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