2007 115 TLR fuel problem I believe

[rips]

Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs

 

[johnnygjr]

Possible air leak in fuel system, Might need to pull carbs. and disassemble them,soak over night, clean thoroughly and rebuild with new gaskets,needle+seats,reset floats carefully,then bench test with fuel pressure with primer bulb in a vise to test seats

 

[ClassicAQ]

after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again.

The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb.

With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets?

By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html

 

[rips]

The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb.

With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets?

By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html

thanks guys and wow thanks for the explanation makes total sense, i do not know the last time if ever they where cleaned i purchased the boat about two months ago.... also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks

 

[rips]

The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb.

With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets?

By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html

thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again

 

[ClassicAQ]

thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again

Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet.

A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20

Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing.

also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks

Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.

 

[ClassicAQ]

thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again

Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet.

A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20

Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing.

also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks

Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.

 

[rips]

excuse my "noobness" but i noticed around the internet people talking about similar issues being caused by a clogged VST filter??? Does the motor have both two carbs and a VST filter???

 

[ClassicAQ]

I don't believe your engine has a VST filter.

 

[rips]

so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ???

 

[ClassicAQ]

so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ???

Does your engine have a "F" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket.

If your model does not have this "F", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs.

If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs.

 

[rips]

Does your engine have a "F" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket.

If your model does not have this "F", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs.

If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs.

Yes sir, sorry for the confusion, its a F115, followed by the serial number and the letter J