2004 Sea Ray 185 Sport with 4.3l Mercruiser, Thunderbolt V ignition.
As a preventative maintenance routine, I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, ignition sensor module in distributor, and ignition coil. The boat ran fine the day before this maintenance. I started the engine immediately after the maintenance and it started. Now the engine won't fire the day after. Cranks strong but no spark. Also have new starter battery. I followed the Thunderbolt V troubleshooting flow chart, with the following results. Gray tach lead not shorted. 12.4 volts at the positive terminal on coil. 11.6 volts at the wht/red lead coming from the ignition module. No spark when striking wht/grn lead against ground. Kill switch was bypassed years ago. Carb getting fuel. Spraying carb cleaner and cranking gives no results. I can't believe the ignition module could have gone bad in one day. Disconnected the gray tach wire from coil and still no spark. Is 11.6volts from the ignition module a problem? Is there a neutral or other switch I'm overlooking that would allow cranking with no spark? Hoping to avoid replacing the ignition module if not necessary.
As a preventative maintenance routine, I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, ignition sensor module in distributor, and ignition coil. The boat ran fine the day before this maintenance. I started the engine immediately after the maintenance and it started. Now the engine won't fire the day after. Cranks strong but no spark. Also have new starter battery. I followed the Thunderbolt V troubleshooting flow chart, with the following results. Gray tach lead not shorted. 12.4 volts at the positive terminal on coil. 11.6 volts at the wht/red lead coming from the ignition module. No spark when striking wht/grn lead against ground. Kill switch was bypassed years ago. Carb getting fuel. Spraying carb cleaner and cranking gives no results. I can't believe the ignition module could have gone bad in one day. Disconnected the gray tach wire from coil and still no spark. Is 11.6volts from the ignition module a problem? Is there a neutral or other switch I'm overlooking that would allow cranking with no spark? Hoping to avoid replacing the ignition module if not necessary.