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2000 Johnson 90hp. PLEASE HELP. Long detailed description of what is wrong and what we have done

kboater

New member
This is a very long post, i have tried to be as detailed as possible. PLEASE read it and give me your opinion….Please


I recently purchased a 2000 key largo with a 2000 90hp Johnson Ocean Pro on it. (with VRO)
The seller was upfront with me that at low idle (when throttling down) sometimes it would die, but it would always fire right back up. I sea trailed the boat and it did exactly as the seller described. After, I had a reputable mechanic come check out the motor before I actually purchased it. The mechanic did a compression test and all 4 cylinders were over 100psi and all even. he found no other problems, but he could not repeat the dying at idle on muffs (as it only did it on the water). He said it was probably a warped float bowl chamber and would be a fairly easy fix.


I feel like he is a good mechanic, been doing this for 30 years, familiar with this motor, and he is not just a parts changer.


Well, it turns out that a few of the float bowls were warped, but not causing the issue. he found out that On number 4 cylinder the spark plug was getting wet with water, which is why he thought it was dying and not sucking the fuel properly. He tore about all 4 carbs and adjusted float bowls and found nothing wrong. So then he pulled off the heads and noticed that the head gasket o rings were not in good shape, there was some rtv sealant plugging some of the water openings, and the heads were not in great shape. So he thought that water was leaking from the water jackets (i think thats what they are called under the heads) so he had the heads machined so they were in good shape and nice and flat again. then he put new head gasket o rings on and it was a little better, but cylinder 4 was still not pulling fuel at low idle and the plug in that cylinder was still wet with water. all 3 cylinders, except number 4, actually picked up about 10 psi of compression after doing the heads. number 4 had stayed about the same. So now he thought the rings on the piston in cylinder 4 were stuck which was causing cylinder 4 not to pull enough fuel at idle, but also let a little moisture from the exhaust port, inside the cylinder, be pulled into the intake port which was causing the wet plug. So he did some ring free and let it soak. Well that freed up the ring and now that cylinder has the same compression as the other cylinders, but the plug in that cylinder 4 is still wet causing it to die at idle. He said when he manually chokes cal 4 it picks up as it is pulling more fuel and the spark plug start firing again……


so, that is where we are at now. He has fully checked out the VRO, fuel and oil are both 100% free from water, and carbs are 100% he says. he said there are only 2 other places that water could be coming into cylinder 4 causing the plug to get wet which is causing it to die at low idle. He said 1 place could be block rot, but be is 99% sure this is not the case as he has found no evidence of it and he says that these motors were not at all prone to it. The only other place he thinks water may be coming in is from the lower main seal. I think he said that is near the crank….


I think he is a very good mechanic, not just a parts changer, and he really wants to fix this as we are both frustrated at this because it seemed like a simple problem at first and now we are about to tear down the motor to get to the lower main seal as that is where he thinks the water is coming in, causing the plug to get wet, and causing 4 cylinder to die at low idle….


does this sound like we are on the right track? we both think we have tried the simple, cheapest things first, now we are left with this lower main seal….Can someone chime in and let me know if you think we are on the right track? Any suggestions?
 
Edit: just spoke to the mech, and to clarify about the lower main seal he said:
The power head base gasket is the mounting surface and the lower main is the sealing surface between the bottom cylinder and the water in the exhaust. the base gasket and the lower main seal are the two that will be replaced, you cant pull the power head and reinstall without a new base gasket you can however pull the power head and reinstall without replacing the lower main seal. we will of course be replacing them both
 
Your description and explanation of your mechanic's character and knowledge has him coming across as an honest and knowledgeable person. I suggest you stick with him and take his advice.

Some problems can be caused by more than one engine flaw... the slight bit of water in #4 cylinder is one of them. This can be due to faulty head gaskets or O Ring seals, deterioration/corrosion of the aluminum surrounding the cylinder sleeve at its sealing surface, the bottom main bearing seal, the powerhead base gasket or the adapter plate gasket, or at the exhaust plate baffle gasket area "if" the engine is so equipped with the older type removable exhaust baffle plate setup.

Keep us in the loop as to your progress.
 
Your description and explanation of your mechanic's character and knowledge has him coming across as an honest and knowledgeable person. I suggest you stick with him and take his advice.

Some problems can be caused by more than one engine flaw... the slight bit of water in #4 cylinder is one of them. This can be due to faulty head gaskets or O Ring seals, deterioration/corrosion of the aluminum surrounding the cylinder sleeve at its sealing surface, the bottom main bearing seal, the powerhead base gasket or the adapter plate gasket, or at the exhaust plate baffle gasket area "if" the engine is so equipped with the older type removable exhaust baffle plate setup.

Keep us in the loop as to your progress.

Thanks, I'll pass this along and let you know progress. Any other ideas?
 
Here is an update. The mechanic pulled the block to look at the lower seal. It was toast from being over heated at some point and also has a crack in it where we think it was letting water leak into #4 cylinder.*
So lower seal has to be replaced. Mechanic (who I trust) said that the block had to be split to change out that lower seal.

Now here is my question, if the block had to be split to change this seal, would you have go ahead and have the mechanic pull the crank and pistons to inspect and and check rings since he will already have the block split? Remember there was a light coat of surface rust in #4 cylinder so we don't know long it was leaking. It will cost more money to pull and inspect everything, but mechanic is suggesting this so we can be 100% sure there is nothing else wrong. Obviously money is the problem (like usual) or I would of course say yes.

What do you guys think? Go ahead and pay more to pull crank and pistons to inspect since already have to split the block?
 
Having retired in 1991, I'm not familiar with the design or circuitry of your 2000 model. However, I have never had to split the crankcase to remove the bottom seal housing. It's a snug fit due to dual O Ring seals, if that's still the rule, but the housing is easily removed. That's a lot of work and $$$ which is usually not required.

Hopefully more knowledgeable members will jump in here with their opinion on the matter.
 
Thanks joereeves.
As you mentioned, I would definitely like to hear from someone who knows this engine. I Had another mech tell me he also thinks you have to split the case....but I would Def like to know for sure
 
I myself would like to know how the seal overheatecd and where water comes from to enter crack, Yes it will need to be split to replace it.
 
This is a 10 years old post so I have verry little hope but I'm getting desperate. I have EXACTLY the same problem. Did you ever figure it out ? Thanks.
 
There is no separate seal housing.----Block needs to be split to replace seal.---An example of " modern motors run nice "----But it costs a fortune to repair them !
 
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