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2.3 removal & install

markhoenig

New member
I have a 86 galaxy with a 2.3l aq131a that i have been told has worn rings(no compression), i found some longblocks on the net but am leery of pulling and installing the engine, i've been a diesel mech. for some years, so i know my way around engines but am not sure about boat engines. are they much trouble to pull and install, and should the outdrive be pulled with engine or not? i would appriciate any help, thanks
 
Not a hard job.
The upper drive must be removed to pull the flywheel housing.
You can pull the motor without that but while it's out replace the bearings in the bellhousing.
It would go back together easier while the whole thing is out.
 
how is the flywheel attached to the upper drive, is there an access cover? i dont have posession of the boat at the moment and cant look
 
........... are they much trouble to pull and install, and should the outdrive be pulled with engine or not? i would appriciate any help, thanks
Mark, these are a piece of cake to remove.
There is no need to remove the drive as to remove the engine only.
Just separate the engine from the flywheel cover (aka Bell Housing in the auto world) and leave the Flywheel Cover attached to the "Transom Shield".
Baring no rust at the PDS and Borg Warner drive coupler, the engine will separate just as though it's a car/truck installation.

NOTE: if you were to remove the flywheel cover with the engine, it will require a new forward rubber cushion when going back together. The FWD cushion provides the seal between the F/C and Transom Shield. Both together provide engine support.
These generally will NOT go a second time around.
If good now.... there is no reason to disturb any of this, IMO.

Now, after having said that...... there is a darn good reason to pull the transmission ONLY (not the entire out drive).
  • Universal drive shaft bearing cross assessment/replacement (aka U-joints).
  • Drive shaft bellows replacement.
  • Water Neck fitting and special beaded gasket.
  • Last but certainly not least.... PDS bearing replacment.
  • Eccentric piston seal replacement.
I would do all of the above if you have no recent history showing that these have been replaced.

The cost to do so will be one 6206 brg, five new O-rings, piston seal, drive oil, fill plug gasket, bellows, water neck kit, two 5-1306X bearing crosses (unless a later shaft was used), and a small amount of your time.
Peace of Mind!

The PDS is the Primary Drive Shaft that connects the universal shaft to the engine's drive coupler (looks like a clutch disc minus any friction material).
There will be a single 6206 bearing on this shaft.
Should this bearing fail, the damage can be severe.
I'd strongly encourage you to replace this bearing and seals.

Your call!
 
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Thanks both of you for your advice, if anyone else has any tidbits of info that may help me please let me know. I think I'm gonna try this project, the boat mech. just told me he would charge $1500 to $1600 for the labor only to pull my engine, dress out the longblock and install engine, not flywheel bearing or seal, just the engine. Maybe I'm crazy but that sounds outragous.
 
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