I retired in 1991 and am not familiar with the 1997 130hp design or circuitry so some of what I have to say may not pertain to your engine.
Compression sounds okay.
Spark (with "all" spark plugs removed) should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)
You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:
A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.
Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:
..........X1..........X2
.................X..(grd)
..........X3..........X4
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The timer base under the flywheel that rotates to advance or retard the spark advance may be sticking in a retard position. Inspect it closely while having someone slowly advance the throttle... it should move smoothly throughout its entire movement range.
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If all of the above checks out okay, the usual cause of the problem you describe is a fouled carburetor.
Let us know what you find.
