trynhooker
Regular Contributor
Initial problem, engine wouldn't start, usually, but sometimes it would, very random.
Checked spark etc, wasn't getting any. Tested out to be power pack.
Since I don't have the optical Tester, I replaced PP with one from CDI which came with new optical sense as well. It is ALSO designed to enable checking of timing with timing light and grounding out Quickstart via Port tan temp sensor wire.
Replaced PP, engine started, but I kept smelling burning plastic.
I removed the key switch, started engine and could see the ignition switch arching and burning...doh!!
So I replaced ignition switch with the OEM version which it had.
Engine started, runs fine.
Then, the engine wouldn't turn off all the time via ignition or kill switch.
Tested good, but same issue.
*What I noticed was that when it wouldn't turn off, the engine actually turned off half the cylinders, as you could hear how quiet it got.
So I knew the black/ yellow wires weren't grounding out completely.
Started checking wires on engine from PP, the kill wires and also the kill wire from the shift interrupt switch (which by design only momentarily kills one side of the ignition). If you are knowledgeable of these this will start making sense to you. *
So I tested black/yellow from PP to 6 wire plug on engine that feeds the the ignition switch, and had intermittent connectivity.
Removed all the tape on these wires, and found there are 2 blocking diodes in the system. One on kill wires and one on temp sensor wires.
Started engine, couldn't kill it. Went back and wiggled the kill wires, engine stopped. Restarted, tested kill switch and ignition switch, engine stopped!
Found that the black/ yellow from end of diode to 6 wire plug was the issue where it connected to diode. Diode checked good.
I believe that when the original ignition switch was shorting out, it must have damaged that kill wire.
Other than that I have no idea since those sites on engine are all taped up and don't bend/ move easily.
So I fixed the wires to diode on both ends, and now everything works... almost.
The only thing I can't figure out now is why the idle rpm on the hose and in my 55gal drum doesn't seem to increase as expected.
The original timing settings were both almost on the - end of the adjuster.
When I do static timing via CDI's method with this type PP, the WOT is 20° BTDC (books calls for °19-°21) as it should be, but the idle timing adjuster is on the + end second to last notch or about 5°ATDC (which should be increasing rpm quite a bit). Book calls for °5-°7.
If I move timing around the rpm barely changes? It did move from about 8-9 when I first checked to 5 where I have it.
Also, carbs have been cleaned, floats set correct, no fuel leaks etc and S&L done. Adjusted mixture screws 5.5 turns out which didn't help much.
What baffles me is when I read other threads and ppl have idle rpms anywhere from 600 -1100 (precluding those that are stuck in Quickstart lol), yet I can't get that increase even on the muffs!
The only other thing I can think of is the fact that the fuel in tank is almost 2 years old, but engine starts right up! There is no water in gas and it doesn't smell sour either.
Thoughts?
Checked spark etc, wasn't getting any. Tested out to be power pack.
Since I don't have the optical Tester, I replaced PP with one from CDI which came with new optical sense as well. It is ALSO designed to enable checking of timing with timing light and grounding out Quickstart via Port tan temp sensor wire.
Replaced PP, engine started, but I kept smelling burning plastic.
I removed the key switch, started engine and could see the ignition switch arching and burning...doh!!
So I replaced ignition switch with the OEM version which it had.
Engine started, runs fine.
Then, the engine wouldn't turn off all the time via ignition or kill switch.
Tested good, but same issue.
*What I noticed was that when it wouldn't turn off, the engine actually turned off half the cylinders, as you could hear how quiet it got.
So I knew the black/ yellow wires weren't grounding out completely.
Started checking wires on engine from PP, the kill wires and also the kill wire from the shift interrupt switch (which by design only momentarily kills one side of the ignition). If you are knowledgeable of these this will start making sense to you. *
So I tested black/yellow from PP to 6 wire plug on engine that feeds the the ignition switch, and had intermittent connectivity.
Removed all the tape on these wires, and found there are 2 blocking diodes in the system. One on kill wires and one on temp sensor wires.
Started engine, couldn't kill it. Went back and wiggled the kill wires, engine stopped. Restarted, tested kill switch and ignition switch, engine stopped!
Found that the black/ yellow from end of diode to 6 wire plug was the issue where it connected to diode. Diode checked good.
I believe that when the original ignition switch was shorting out, it must have damaged that kill wire.
Other than that I have no idea since those sites on engine are all taped up and don't bend/ move easily.
So I fixed the wires to diode on both ends, and now everything works... almost.
The only thing I can't figure out now is why the idle rpm on the hose and in my 55gal drum doesn't seem to increase as expected.
The original timing settings were both almost on the - end of the adjuster.
When I do static timing via CDI's method with this type PP, the WOT is 20° BTDC (books calls for °19-°21) as it should be, but the idle timing adjuster is on the + end second to last notch or about 5°ATDC (which should be increasing rpm quite a bit). Book calls for °5-°7.
If I move timing around the rpm barely changes? It did move from about 8-9 when I first checked to 5 where I have it.
Also, carbs have been cleaned, floats set correct, no fuel leaks etc and S&L done. Adjusted mixture screws 5.5 turns out which didn't help much.
What baffles me is when I read other threads and ppl have idle rpms anywhere from 600 -1100 (precluding those that are stuck in Quickstart lol), yet I can't get that increase even on the muffs!
The only other thing I can think of is the fact that the fuel in tank is almost 2 years old, but engine starts right up! There is no water in gas and it doesn't smell sour either.
Thoughts?