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1995 Yamaha 25hp: Idle speed adjustment, electric start conversion, console controls

Frankman815

New member
Hey guys I was referred to this website by a friend while we were talking about some work I want to do to my boat and outboard. I've got a '95 yamaha 25hp 2 smoker (model # C25MSHT) and there are three main things I want to do. 1) Clean and tune the carburetor to fix the starting and idling issues. 2) I'd really like to convert it to electric start. 3) Switch the throttle controls in the side console around because the guy I got the boat from has it setup backwards. I'll dive into each issue separately.

1) Cleaning the carb is straight forward so I think I'm good there. When it comes to adjusting the jets/air mixture screws, are there any tips I should know? Quarter turn at a time? More/less than that? Will I need to adjust anything else after the idler jet has been adjusted?
I've tried tweaking the carb before and it seemed to work for the next two times I had it out but it went back to pitching a fit after that.

2) I've done a lot of research on the electric start conversion and I feel like I just went in circles with it. I couldn't even determine if it was possible with my model because I'm not sure if they make a rotor assembly with the gear teeth on it or if the extra parts would fit under the cowling. I'll tell you what I do have. I already have a battery and master switch and the engine itself does NOT have the push button for electric start on it. I have two small solar panels charging the battery while I'm out on the water but I'd like to have it charging off the engine when running. Those panels can't keep up with the trolling motor and lights.

3) The guy I got this boat from did a DIY side console mod. Well I'm not sure why he set it up like this but the throttle lever controls the gear shifting and the gear shifting lever controls the throttling. I'd like to change this around but it's not entirely necessary. I also want to put the kill switch assembly in the console. Am I right in thinking that I only have to splice in wire sections and move the assembly? Because that is a NO (normally open) switch and putting the kill switch in it closes the circuit to allow current flow? Only need to extend the wires to reach the console and maybe seal the hole on the front face of the engine.

Any insight on any of the three subjects will be greatly appreciated. I can send pictures and give more information if anyone needs it.

Thanks
 
Running issues ?---I would start with a compression test.-----Need to determine overall health of the motor before spending coins on electric start.
 
It runs fine once I get it started and warmed up. It's hard to get it warmed up with the idle speed being off. I have to sit there and play with the throttle for a several minutes before it reaches normal operating temp. Then it runs strong as long as I'm on the gas but as soon as I pull up to the dock and let the revs die to idling speed, it dies.
 
I would say the motor needs more than carburetor work.----Some will argue that concept.----No money spent trouble shooting is a lost art.
 
I got the controls swapped around without issue. Now going to tackle the idling issue. Starting with a good top to bottom cleaning. Then I’ll start tuning the carburetor if it’s still not right.

No ideas on the electric start?
 
I got the controls swapped around without issue. Now going to tackle the idling issue. Starting with a good top to bottom cleaning. Then I’ll start tuning the carburetor if it’s still not right.

No ideas on the electric start?
Any luck with electric start / remote steering conversion? I have same model. Interested.
 
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