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1993 johnson 40hp vj40tletf only revving to 1/2 rpm at wot

Jeffplue1

New member
I have a 1993 vj40tletf that has been a work in progress. I finally had it running at full RPMs end of last season after dialing in prop pitch and changing out my ignition coil. It's always had a very hard start unless I raise the throttle (in neutral) to at least 1/2. Doesn't like to idle very long (without stalling) without raising the throttle, but I've been told this is common for 2 strokes. Tends to cut out sometimes when shifting from forward to reverse (navigating to the boat launch). Biggest issue: This year it has been progressively losing rpm at WOT, to where I'm now at about 2600rpm (from 5000 beginning of the season). It will rev to full RPM in neutral, but from what I've read this doesn't really mean anything since it could be running on 1 out of 2 cylinders and still get full rpm in neutral...

What I've checked so far:

Fuel system was losing prime, so I've replaced all fuel lines, filters, pickup, and primer bulb. Pumping fuel bulb during low rpm condition does nothing.

Rebuilt both carbs, no change

Pushing in enrichment (choke) button changes nothing

Replaced plugs and wires with proper champions and sierra wires

Performed throttle sync and linkage adjustments

Set proper timing at idle, timing light loses signal at higher rpm
which had me check spark gap...

With my spark tester, it did produce a 7/16" spark on both cylinders, but at varying strength. How strong looking is a good spark?

Video of spark test, harder to see on video than in person but it's the best I got...
https://youtu.be/ii3VrCsaBzg

The spark seemed to come in and out, could this be an indicator of something deeper in the ignition such as the power pack or timing base? I've read the timing base can specifically cause this type of issue, and that may explain my timing light losing signal on either ignition wire at elevated rpm.

Is there an easy way to test these components since they are under the flywheel?

I've also read of a pinhole in the vro fuel pump diaphragm causing problems like this, I purchased a rebuild kit but haven't dug into it yet.

If anyone has any insight on where to go next, I would really appreciate the help.
 
Those motors will idle all day long if in good condition !!!----The first step is a compression test.----Post your numbers.----Do not listen to those who say these motors are not designed to idle.
 
Those motors will idle all day long if in good condition !!!----The first step is a compression test.----Post your numbers.----Do not listen to those who say these motors are not designed to idle.

Sorry, forgot to include those. Both cylinders are at 130psi
 
Ready to do some real trouble shooting ?----Or what else did you forget to add in post #1 ?

I think that's about everything, now just looking for the next steps. I'm confident in my mechanical and electrical diag skills, but I'm competent with automotive engines; outboards I'm still learning. I'd really rather not start shooting from the hip with parts replacement ��
 
I offer clues ( no money spent ) advice.----Check flywheel key.---Pushing in the key to activate the primer should slow the motor down or even stall the motor.----What fuel pump is on this motor ?----Or is the VRO in service and has oil consumption been tested and verified.----Water pump impeller replaced like it should be every 5 years or so ?
 
I offer clues ( no money spent ) advice.----Check flywheel key.---Pushing in the key to activate the primer should slow the motor down or even stall the motor.----What fuel pump is on this motor ?----Or is the VRO in service and has oil consumption been tested and verified.----Water pump impeller replaced like it should be every 5 years or so ?

Checked the flywheel key last year, but plan on doing it again if u have to check the stator or timing base. VRO is in service and is definitely consuming oil but I have no idea of its the correct amount. Certainly doesn't appear to be under oiling. Impeller was done right before I purchased it 4 years ago, was planning on doing it when I put it away for storage. No overheat warning, pee tube water is steady and warm (not hot) and disconnecting the tan temp sensor wire doesn't change anything. As far as the primer switch, it clicks when I push the button and I can see the fuel level drop in the white fuel filter under the cowl when pressed so I assume it's working, but it did not cause the motor to stumble at wot
 
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