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1989 Johnson GT150 - Tachometer Issues

JACK LOWE

Member
I have noticed lately that my tachometer won't respond, well...responds intermittently. All of my fuses are good and seated and from what I can see all my wiring connections to the tach look okay. Now, I'm not an electrician and I may missing something easy for someone who 'knows' what to look for. Once it does respond it doesn't drop to zero and then back to the RPM's I'm running at. What might I begin to check on? Thanks in advance!

Jack
 
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(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
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Thanks all...hmmm, reckon I'll take a look at some You Tube videos to try an understand what some of these components, recommended to check/test, look like and where they are located, etc. I don't like to assume, so, IDK if the tach (the gauge on the dash, right?) is factory or AM. All of gauges appear to be of the same make and my boat guy (who's absent until next April) is straight up an OEM factory guy and I've never had an issue with this in my ownership of this boat/motor requiring him to check it out. Thank you for you very quick and very detailed instructions and I'll be reading it again (and again) until it I get the "A HA" moment of understanding. I will most certainly heed the warning of quickly finding out... "fire and disastrous consequences" has my utmost attention now and I don't want to experience that.
 
Making it short!...... If the tack works properly when its gray wire is jumped to one of the stators yellow leads... the regulator/rectifier is faulty.
 
Making it short!...... If the tack works properly when its gray wire is jumped to one of the stators yellow leads... the regulator/rectifier is faulty.

Everything worked perfectly today when I was on the water...straight from the start, each time, low & high RPM's... Never failed once, hmmm...
 
Experiencing similar Tach issues and in looking up the parts diagram to determine what cost I might expect for a rectifier / regulator for my '85 90 hp Evinrude it points out a warning not to use an AGM, Maintenance free or dry cell battery with this part. Can someone explain the why/danger of this combination?
 
Question: If you measure voltage on the red terminal coming from the regulator, you could see if the battery is charging, correct? The water-cooled rectifiers, Positive to red and negative to ground.
If voltage goes up with RPMs then the rectifier is good?
 
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