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1969 Mercury 500 50HP No Spark

VipzRipz

New member
Hey guys, I recently purchased a boat/motor/trailer Motor serial #2627290 from a guy a little over a month ago and I have been fighting with it ever since. I have yet to be able to get any spark from any cylinders. Motor turns fine btw. I have so far ran a compression test which came out 104PSI on all 4 cylinders. Ordered a newer wiring harness since the wires that were in there were all frayed and useless. I did have to cut and splice some wires on the newer harness and put in new 12 gauge wire in its place. I have cut back and spliced older wire down to the point where it was good again on wires from distributor to switch box. I have put in new spark plugs which are NGK 3922. I have eliminated a possible ignition ground by jumping starter directly from battery and still no spark. I have disconnected the rectifier and tried to crank but still no spark so I figures it is good? I took a multimeter to the switch box (which I believe it could be 1 of the 2 possible culprits) and I was getting readings when key is in the neutral position on red terminal and on blue and white when key is turned to ON position all @ 135.79v. When I tested with the coil (2nd possible culprit, single coil) it was not putting out anything. Does it not read in the neutral or on position or only can get readings while it is trying to be cranked? Am I testing the switch box correctly by connecting positive needle from multi-meter to each terminal while touching switch box ground with other needle? Is anyone able to tell me what each terminal on the switchbox does/how to test it? I will including a pics of what mine looks like. Also I will include pic of before and after I re-ran wire. I ended up going back to original harness because of the way the prongs lined up which made the plug on the outside sit upside down instead of on its side (less stress on the cable going to control box.) Any help and input is welcome I have no boat motor experience what so ever but I am pretty handy when it comes to fixing chainsaws, gas weed-eaters, leaf blowers, etc. but this is getting this best of me.
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Did you have any luck fixing this ? I have the same engine with a no/weak spark, My kid took the cover of it for some reason and a flag got sucked in and wrapped around the fly wheel. I had to replace the timing belt and now it won't start. I replaced the orange wire as it was pretty bad. I'm not sure the flag could effect the control box ? I think I installed the belt correctly, as long as its turning I would think I should get spark ?
 
If the tilt switch is not the culprit, I suspect the switch box is shot. Can't really test one with an ohm meter--you need a DVA meter.

Jeff
 
did you manage to fix the No spark issue? I have the same engine same problem




Hey guys, I recently purchased a boat/motor/trailer Motor serial #2627290 from a guy a little over a month ago and I have been fighting with it ever since. I have yet to be able to get any spark from any cylinders. Motor turns fine btw. I have so far ran a compression test which came out 104PSI on all 4 cylinders. Ordered a newer wiring harness since the wires that were in there were all frayed and useless. I did have to cut and splice some wires on the newer harness and put in new 12 gauge wire in its place. I have cut back and spliced older wire down to the point where it was good again on wires from distributor to switch box. I have put in new spark plugs which are NGK 3922. I have eliminated a possible ignition ground by jumping starter directly from battery and still no spark. I have disconnected the rectifier and tried to crank but still no spark so I figures it is good? I took a multimeter to the switch box (which I believe it could be 1 of the 2 possible culprits) and I was getting readings when key is in the neutral position on red terminal and on blue and white when key is turned to ON position all @ 135.79v. When I tested with the coil (2nd possible culprit, single coil) it was not putting out anything. Does it not read in the neutral or on position or only can get readings while it is trying to be cranked? Am I testing the switch box correctly by connecting positive needle from multi-meter to each terminal while touching switch box ground with other needle? Is anyone able to tell me what each terminal on the switchbox does/how to test it? I will including a pics of what mine looks like. Also I will include pic of before and after I re-ran wire. I ended up going back to original harness because of the way the prongs lined up which made the plug on the outside sit upside down instead of on its side (less stress on the cable going to control box.) Any help and input is welcome I have no boat motor experience what so ever but I am pretty handy when it comes to fixing chainsaws, gas weed-eaters, leaf blowers, etc. but this is getting this best of me.
epZs66Ch.jpg
DP3dcpph.jpg
9NcbQR2h.jpg
Nuc7UWJh.jpg
 
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