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10HP Honda year?

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Hockeyguyjohn

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Hi,

I am looking at this 10hp Honda short shaft for sale on-line. Do you have an idea of the year (age of it)?

Are they a decent motor? Anything I should check out first?







I am replacing an 1982 Mercury 9.8hp.

Thanks in advance for any advice or input!

John
 
I'm guessing mid to late 80's by the color scheme but m70 is right. If you can post the frame number then hondadude may be able to give you EXACT info on it.

GREAT little outboards BUT....please know that some critical parts may not be available new anymore. Specifically ignition items. Check out the parts page link below and note the items that you cannot purchase because they are marked "OBSOLETE"

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...0/BF100Z SA/IGNITION COIL FLYWHEEL/parts.html

That's not to say that you can't keep one of these old girls going....FOREVER!

There are still TONS of these around and many are starting to become "parts motors" simply due to age and neglect. So there are DEFINITELY spares out there. It's just a matter of finding one when you need it and the competition can be fierce.

Also, some of the "obsolete" parts may PROBABLY be substituted for with parts off of later model Hondas which are STILL stockpiled.

So, don't let me scare you off of a good deal....I just wanted to make sure you go in with eyes wide open.
 
#3 is the ignition "magneto" coil and #6 is the charge coil. You can get by without #6 but the engine won't fire if anything goes wrong with #3.

On the VERY bright side.....these things seem to be fairly trouble free and last forever. But...if something did go wrong it MIGHT be difficult to find a replacement. Not impossible...just difficult.

In addition....these type coils COULD be repaired. Although...it's getting harder and harder to find someone with the little wire wrapping machine with wrap counter and the expertise to do it. They are basically pieces of iron with a precise amount of specifically sized, insulated copper wire neatly wrapped around them.

If you can verify that the outboard runs, goes easily in gear and doesn't smoke....the only thing left is the price. Around where I live these things have shot up in price the last couple of years. Going from an average of $400 for a nice one to up over $650 or more now. Still a pretty good deal for a VERY reliable and quiet running outboard when compared to what a NEW 10 horse of ANY brand costs.
 
To answer your question I went..hmmmm. Then I checked the parts page below.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...F100Z LA/PROPELLER SHAFT PROPELLER/parts.html

As you can see....all the parts in the transmission are still available. For ME...a fairly experienced mechanic with MANY tools....THAT is the one criteria that makes the total repair of this lower end...EASY.

For some folks though....it may be a daunting task. Even though the "whole shebang" pretty much comes apart after removing two 6mm bolts....replacing the shaft seal (item #18) AND the forward bearing (item #21) "PROPERLY" requires some special tools....and a good degree of care. Most people will "booger" up that shaft seal 2 or 3 times before getting it in there right. But...some get REAL LUCKY. The removal of the forward bearing requires the use of a slide hammer with inner jaw attachment as it is pressed into the housing.

There are TWO "selective" shims (items #7) and TWO selective "washers" (items #16) available that are used to space the forward bearing and reverse gear to obtain correct shaft end play. Fitment of these is a trial and error deal requiring some fairly fine measuring.

THEN...any transmission that has been opened up...needs to be ACCURATELY TESTED for leaks.

It will do you VERY LITTLE good to put new parts in the bullet....measure and adjust everything so that it shifts easily....and then put it in the water only to have all the lube leak out and then fill with WATER!

I would advise MOST to not even BEGIN unless they are willing to obtain the proper TESTING equipment. WHICH ARE:

A fitting that will screw into the drain and fill plug holes that you can attach an air hose to. (NOT easily found). I made mine.

An air pressure regulator with a gauge capable of regulating compressed air down to 3 psi.

A simple hand vacuum pump with gauge. (which can be used as the air compressor and air regulator in most cases IF equipped with a "compound" gauge that measures vacuum AND low positive pressure.)

And...so you replaced a bearing or two...got a good install on the shaft seal....got the prop shaft end play in the "zone"...put it all together and....... IT WON"T HOLD A VACUUM!

"HUH?"...... "WHAT did I do wrong?" you ask!

Well...maybe you did everything right...but didn't do ENOUGH!

Read on;

Refer to the link below to see that the main shaft seal (item #17) is also responsible for keeping the lube in and the water out of the gear case.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...F100Z LA/WATER PUMP VERTICAL SHAFT/parts.html

In addition to the mainshaft water seal is the shift shaft water seal....THAT could be your culprit that is letting the lube out. Refer to item 23 in the link below. It is replaced in conjunction with the "seal holder", item #6.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...EXTENSION CASE GEAR CASE SHIFT ROD/parts.html

OR...it could just be a bad seal on the fill screw sealing washer...item #19.

So....I hope you see....that the answer to this question is RELATIVE. Is it hard?....not necessarily....is it EASY?....well, I wrote all this down so that YOU can be the judge.
 
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Hi jgmo,

Great information!!!

I bought the motor for $840.00 Canadian (about $630.00 US). The motor looks great, engine bay is spotless!! I put the motor on my boat and it starts and runs okay, stalls when it is idling when warm, maybe a carb issue?

The serial #tag has been painted over and I can't read any numbers, is there any other way to figure out the model? The guy I bought it from says it does not have a engine oil filter, does this sound correct?

I will be bringing it home to my house in a few weeks, I am building a stand for it so I can work on it over the winter.

Again thank you for being so helpful!!!

John
 
The idle issue could well be resolved with a proper carburetor cleaning.-------Bought 2 motors like that with idle issues.-------Owner could not find a shop that knew / wanted to fix that issue.-------Both ran good after cleaning them.----Keep an eye on oil level as there have been issues with water getting / leaking into the oil.----And replace the impeller now before using this motor.
 
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The guy I bought it off of said he did the impeller last year but I plan on going over the bottom end this winter and will change it then.

Water in the engine oil?

Thanks!

John
 
racerone is right...it may need a carb cleaning.

Water CAN get in the oil....but I'm not aware of it being a prominent issue with these outboards.

Yes...NO oil filter. Well...there IS an oil filter in the sump but it is not serviceable unless you take the power head off of the oil case. That is something that I don't like about these outboards. After MANY years....the ones I've taken out and cleaned when doing engine work were pretty gunked up. I don't think Honda EVER expected these outboards to last as long as they have. But... they built them well and they built them tough!

One thing these are fairly notorious for is developing an exhaust leak at the manifold to head gasket. You will know yours is leaking if the engine tends to die out after a bit and then re-starts and runs ok for a while and dies out again. Well....you won't know it's an exhaust leak UNTIL you pull the engine cover off and the outboard runs FOREVER. That is the test: If it dies out running but then doesn't die out with the cover off....the gasket needs replacing.

Doing the gasket is "major surgery" but these are so easy to work on that most guys don't have a big problem doing it.

Replacing the exhaust gasket requires that the power head be removed from the oil case.

The good thing about having to do this "chore" is that it also allows you to rectify and prevent future failure.

Remember where I said to clean the oil filter requires removing the power head? Well this is the time to clean it! Also...there is an oring "nestled" inside a circle cut out of the oil pan gasket that seals the water entering the block from getting in the oil....the water in oil issue previously mentioned. Well, if you have to go in to fix the exhaust gasket and clean the oil screen....you will be replacing that oring and using a new oil pan gasket.

So, I have always looked at repairing the exhaust leak as an OPPORTUNITY to do some much needed PREVENTATIVE maintenance.

If you have to do it....and you have the WHOLE winter....it is not too hard at all.

Just be aware that there is a "hidden" bolt securing the oil case to the power head. If you don't get it out and TRY TO FORCE THE CASE AND BLOCK APART....you will CRACK the oil case! They are still available but at around $1000 us replacement cost....it pretty much makes your outboard toast. But if you DON'T FORCE anything...you will be alright.

Another thing that can be addressed is the oil filler adapter seal/gasket. It is another way water can enter the crankcase. Check out Items #15 and 16 in the link below.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF100F SA/OIL PUMP/parts.html

What happens is that, over time, the plastic housing that is the oil filler "body" will warp. When it does....water CAN enter the oil through the poor seal at the #16 gasket. Just replacing the gasket will NOT fix the problem. It would be VERY WISE to replace the filler body and gasket if you have the power head apart.

Another issue you may encounter when pulling one of these apart is the erosion of the aluminum where the water tube connects up to the oil case. There is a BIG rubberized seal there but on engines that were used heavily in salt water...I have found the metal has suffered a great deal and a good seal can be impossible to obtain. UNLESS...it is repaired. I have carefully removed all of the oxidized metal in that area and applied epoxy to "reform" the hole for a good seal. So far so good. My first one was about 4 or 5 years ago and it is still holding. Hopefully...you won't encounter that little problem on your outboard. But...if you do...I'm here to tell you it CAN BE FIXED.

If you want to be fairly independent in your work....get the shop manual...it's not the greatest but it will tell you what you need to know. This one:

http://www.amazon.com/Honda-Marine-...s=honda+10+horsepower++outboard+repair+manual
 
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Yes, THAT manual shows a diagram of the bolt pattern and lists the lengths of the bolts so that you can put them back in the proper order. With some being longer than others, getting them in their proper place is CRITICAL a good block to pan seal.

As far as my knowledge goes....like I said...these outboards are fairly simple and straightforward to work on. You will be a "pro" on them too after doing an exhaust seal job.
 
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