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04 Honda 130hp intermittent start

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Armycane

New member
Had engine troubles on the Honda last month believe they are fixed but now having starting troubles. Started the boat four times before taking it out. No problems, then started fine when we got to the water. Ran smooth. Anchored for approximately 90 minutes wouldn’t start thought it was battery problem because there wasn’t even a tone start tone. changed to second battery still wouldn’t start not even a tone, a few minutes later tried again fired right up. I have changed every fuse in the last two week and cleaned the battery connections in the same time frame. Also both batteries we above 12v we I got home.
 
Do I understand that when you turn on the key, you are not getting two quick beeps from your alarm? If so, then it sounds like a problem with your key switch. Remove it, check all of the connections, and spray innards with WD-40 or a good electrical contact cleaner.
 
chawk_man said:
Do I understand that when you turn on the key, you are not getting two quick beeps from your alarm? If so, then it sounds like a problem with your key switch. Remove it, check all of the connections, and spray innards with WD-40 or a good electrical contact cleaner.
Click to expand...
Yes that is happening when it will not do anything at all
 
Hi,
I think chawk_man might have the solution.He has plenty of experience.

I just wanted to add that while cleaning your battery connection was a good move, don't forget that the other end, or "engine side" of those cables could need attention too. The positive cable typically connects at the battery isolation switch and, from there, another cable connects to the starter motor.

Those positive cable ends are usually fairly easy to access for periodic cleaning but the ground cable end is bolted down on the engine block and can be difficult to get to. That "main ground" connection almost never gets cleaned but is often the source of problems, especially in marine environments, and should not be ignored.

Those 1-2-BOTH battery switches do go bad and can cause problems like this as well.

There are many tutorials on-line about a handy trouble shooting procedure known as 'Voltage Drop Testing". A volt drop test allows you to use a digital multimeter to "look inside" an electrical wire, cable or component AS THE CIRCUIT IS BEING POWERED to read directly the amount of volts it is consuming. Well worth the time to learn and use in a case like this.

Switches, wires and cables should consume very minimal power in a circuit and connection points should "rob" even less power as electrical current flows.
<0.30v for a switch
<0.20v for a cable
<0.10v for an individual connection

Of course, those numbers are for reference and are general upper limits. They can be variable from circuit to circuit but the closer to 0.00v, the better.

Good luck.
 
jgmo said:
Hi,
I think chawk_man might have the solution.He has plenty of experience.

I just wanted to add that while cleaning your battery connection was a good move, don't forget that the other end, or "engine side" of those cables could need attention too. The positive cable typically connects at the battery isolation switch and, from there, another cable connects to the starter motor.

Those positive cable ends are usually fairly easy to access for periodic cleaning but the ground cable end is bolted down on the engine block and can be difficult to get to. That "main ground" connection almost never gets cleaned but is often the source of problems, especially in marine environments, and should not be ignored.

Those 1-2-BOTH battery switches do go bad and can cause problems like this as well.

There are many tutorials on-line about a handy trouble shooting procedure known as 'Voltage Drop Testing". A volt drop test allows you to use a digital multimeter to "look inside" an electrical wire, cable or component AS THE CIRCUIT IS BEING POWERED to read directly the amount of volts it is consuming. Well worth the time to learn and use in a case like this.

Switches, wires and cables should consume very minimal power in a circuit and connection points should "rob" even less power as electrical current flows.
<0.30v for a switch
<0.20v for a cable
<0.10v for an individual connection

Of course, those numbers are for reference and are general upper limits. They can be variable from circuit to circuit but the closer to 0.00v, the better.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Ok, I don’t have a battery switch, I physically moved the cables from one to the other when I changed them… but I will be cleaning the connections asap
 
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