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Milky oil SHOOTING out of valve covers!!!

A

Agarabedian

Member
Video below. It’s a mercruiser 260/v8. Some people told me it’s a cracked block and I need a new engine. Others have said it’s just a head gasket. Any ideas before I spend the money on rebuilding a new block??? Dipstick is milky oil/water to the top as well. Hopefully someone has seen what is happening in my video before!!

 
cracked block is my opinion considering how fast the mix is coming out the valve covers
Start by pulling the intake , I`m sure you will see the cracks in the sides of the valley
Who winterized it, when winterized, and how it was winterized
 
I just got this boat so I am not sure about winterization. Took it out it ran fine but was running slightly hot. I replaced the thermostat and impeller and then took it out again. Temperature was perfect all day. Opened my engine cover and it was covered with the milk. Still ran perfect and didn’t skip a beat. Slight hesitation on the water on the way back. I haven’t ran it since. Would a compression test tell me a cracked block vs head gasket?
 
So you just got the boat?
Please explain..............really want to hear this story...........

I bet you didnt lake test it first did you? Did you buy it after seeing it start and run on the hose on the trailer for 2 minutes?

Bet the seller said it ran perfect all last season...........

Based on the video.................I would suggest getting your money back........
 
With that amount of water coming out, the intake manifold water cross over has a rot hole in it. Pull the thermostat housing and look straight down into the hole.... You will see it.
 
kghost said:
So you just got the boat?
Please explain..............really want to hear this story...........

I bet you didnt lake test it first did you? Did you buy it after seeing it start and run on the hose on the trailer for 2 minutes?

Bet the seller said it ran perfect all last season...........

Based on the video.................I would suggest getting your money back........
Click to expand...

To add, Boaters, looking for a boat? Purchase a boat that is no more than 15 years old. There is nothing free about a free boat. Same thing goes for an old boat or a cheap boat.
 
Agarabedian said:
Dockside, if it’s the intake manifold water cross over, is there any way to weld it?? Or am I looking at a new block?
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If the manifold is bad, you change it.

If you find a hole in the manifold and you want to save your engine(if it is salvageable) You have to change that manifold and get the engine running ASAP. Good luck finding one fast. They are not repairable.

If you drain all the water and oil your rotating assembly will rust fast. I have filled a wet engine crankcase with diesel fuel and it saved the internals from rust.
 
Agarabedian said:
I just got this boat so I am not sure about winterization. Took it out it ran fine but was running slightly hot. I replaced the thermostat and impeller and then took it out again. Temperature was perfect all day. Opened my engine cover and it was covered with the milk. Still ran perfect and didn’t skip a beat. Slight hesitation on the water on the way back. I haven’t ran it since. Would a compression test tell me a cracked block vs head gasket?
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A compression test will only let you know if a cylinder is producing the correct pressure or not.
You would ultimately want to perform a cylinder pressure leak-down-test.

Agarabedian said:
Dockside, if it’s the intake manifold water cross over, is there any way to weld it?? Or am I looking at a new block?
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If (key word "IF") the intake manifold ONLY is bad, you would simply replace it.

However, understand that would require some form of pressure escaping from the cylinder(s) in order to produce enough crankcase pressure that would be capable of blowing the milky oil out from the valve covers...... especially at that rate as seen in your video.

.
 
RicardoMarine said:





However, understand that would require some form of pressure escaping from the cylinder(s) in order to produce enough crankcase pressure that would be capable of blowing the milky oil out from the valve covers...... especially at that rate as seen in your video.

.
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This is wrong.

The raw water and circ pumps will push enough water into the crank case through the hole in the manifold for the downward piston movement to pump it out in pulses.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
This is wrong.

The raw water and circ pumps will push enough water into the crank case through the hole in the manifold for the downward piston movement to pump it out in pulses.
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Chris, I did preface my comment by saying "IF" the manifold was bad....... but you are correct, "IF" the manifold was bad in this area, it would indeed push enough seawater into the block/heads to produce the milky oil that is seen escaping from the valve covers!


In retrospect, I should have worded that differently.


.
 
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Not even crankcase pressure , the waters pouring into the block and has to go out somewhere when the block is full of water,
Remove the therm housing and just look.Hole should be the size of a quarter
 
Jack, this is your FINAL WARNING.

I told you before you're welcome to stick around if you can be civil. If you are not capable of being civil then you are done here.
 
The water jacket surrounding the cylinders has cracked allowing cooling water to flow into the crankcase at a massive rate. The spinning pistons create pressure inside the crankcase that is pushing the water up the oil drain holes in the heads and out the vent tubes.
This engine is done even if the problem is limited to the intake. The water/oil mix has eaten all the babbit from the bearings and the engine is a useless lump.
 
FOUND THE CULPRIT!!!! Took the thermostat housing off and sure enough there was a penny sized hole. Gonna clean it up nicely and slab some JB Weld on it so I can take her out again this season in my local pond. Only question now is....how the hell do I remove all the water out my engine? Drain oil, take plugs out and turn engine over....any tips??
 
Agarabedian said:
FOUND THE CULPRIT!!!! Took the thermostat housing off and sure enough there was a penny sized hole.

1...... Gonna clean it up nicely and slab some JB Weld on it so I can take her out again this season in my local pond.

2..... Only question now is....how the hell do I remove all the water out my engine? Drain oil, take plugs out and turn engine over....any tips??
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1.... Do yourself and your engine a favor, and DO NOT make a JB Weld repair on this!
Find a new replacement intake manifold and install it.
Before removing the distributor, bring the crankshaft around so that the #1 cylinder is at approx 6* BTDC on the Compression Stroke.

2.... This will become a rather long and involved process.
Yes, remove all spark plugs and turn the engine over ASAP.
Drain the engine oil, and remove the oil filter.
After installing the NEW intake manifold, replace the oil and filter. You can use cheap oil and a cheap filter.
Supply water and start the engine and bring it up to near operating temperature.
Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Replace both oil and filter.
Supply water and start the engine and bring it up to near operating temperature.

Repeat the process.

Repeat the process again.

Repeat the process until the oil is clear and clean.
At this point, you will want to have installed a good quality oil and a good filter.

With any luck, you will have not damaged any bearings.
 
JB weld will not hold. Get a manifold Change it.

Change the oil a bunch of times, Just use 3 quarts of the cheapest crap you can find, Pull the filter and drain it in between changes, do this at the dock. For the last oil change, use good oil, fill to capacity, change filter and run it out on the water to burn off any left over moisture in the engine.
 
Slowed down the vid...and saw a Quadrajet 4bbl carb...so I'm guessin' you have an older Pre-vortec 12 bolt manifold...you'd need either a cast iron GM spread bore 4bbl manifold (should be a lot of used ones around) or if not available used...then an aftermarket Edelbrok with the lined water passages to prevent corrosion...
 
FWIW... about buying older boats... Been doing it all my life and what I've learned..

1) Don't buy "no name" or "clone" boats, regardless of price ( unless you want a "practice your skills" boat...which hopefully you'll scrap)
2) Factor in a new engine/drive into your cost of ownership before you make an offer to buy.
3) Epoxy and fiberglass cloth cost the same installed in a top tier top quality boat as in a "no name".
4) Deck/hull repairs actually cost more than engine repairs and rarely turn out as well.
5) Its a labor of love, not an investment.... although there are some folks in my neighborhood who have a business case of buying "cheap" boats, doing a quick fix up and reselling them. Caveat Emptor!!!
 
its obvious to me that the OP has no idea watsoever and providing technical advice to him is a waste of time and potentially dangerous to those that will go to sea on his badly repaired vessel.

My non technical advice to him is to take it to someone. someone qualified.

PS i support kghost original comments, tough they were but so true.

PPS just noticed this guy has another post on same issue, after reading that post i now know he has no idea.

i think sometimes we who try to help, (us) with advice, take a step back and read between the lines, and ask ourselves "is this guy capable of doing what we advise?" wake up Australia/USA! hes cruising around for hours not knowing his donk was imitating an airport runway foam truck and concludes his problem can be fixed by glueing a patch over the hole in his inlet manifold. run a mile guys this bloke is a class action waiting to happen.

Mark
 
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tuna_man said:
its obvious to me that the OP has no idea watsoever and providing technical advice to him is a waste of time and potentially dangerous to those that will go to sea on his badly repaired vessel.

My non technical advice to him is to take it to someone. someone qualified.

PS i support kghost original comments, tough they were but so true.

PPS just noticed this guy has another post on same issue, after reading that post i now know he has no idea.
That is very likely why he decided to post his questions and concerns here.

i think sometimes we who try to help, (us) with advice, take a step back and read between the lines, and ask ourselves "is this guy capable of doing what we advise?"
While that is not necessarily up to us, we do our best to be clear and helpful!

wake up Australia/USA! hes cruising around for hours not knowing his donk was imitating an airport runway foam truck and concludes his problem can be fixed by glueing a patch over the hole in his inlet manifold. run a mile guys this bloke is a class action waiting to happen.
See ** below.

Mark
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Mark, please understand that most people who post their questions (on this or any forum) are looking for suggestions simply because they are not skilled or up to speed on a particular issue. They are here asking for our help!

We are here to help them generously and politely, ** and without being condescending.





.


 
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tuna_man said:
its obvious to me that the OP has no idea watsoever and providing technical advice to him is a waste of time and potentially dangerous to those that will go to sea on his badly repaired vessel.

My non technical advice to him is to take it to someone. someone qualified.

PS i support kghost original comments, tough they were but so true.

PPS just noticed this guy has another post on same issue, after reading that post i now know he has no idea.

i think sometimes we who try to help, (us) with advice, take a step back and read between the lines, and ask ourselves "is this guy capable of doing what we advise?" wake up Australia/USA! hes cruising around for hours not knowing his donk was imitating an airport runway foam truck and concludes his problem can be fixed by glueing a patch over the hole in his inlet manifold. run a mile guys this bloke is a class action waiting to happen.

Mark
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I totally agree. Why listen to a professional when your Mailman has a good idea.
 
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