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HELP with Espar heaters

Brian,

I have an ESpar heater on my boat. I do not know the model. I am interested in finding out due to the fact it is not working now. The boat was built in 2016. Newer boat and heater. I think it has only ran for one tank full of diesel fuel. Any help would be appreciated.


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Hello! I recently bought a 43' boat in the PNW. It has an approximately eight year old D10W Hydronic heating system on it the previous owner installed. It seems to be in tip-top shape externally, and the owner paid good money to have it installed. He said it worked fine 9 months ago when he was last on the boat. However, it is no longer working. When the thermostat is turned on, the main unit just clicks ... then ... nothing. No heater, blower, fuel metering pump, etc. I checked to ensure both the fuel pump and the fuel metering pump were in good working order and they are. I've turned it on enough times now I'm pretty sure it is "locked up". It just clicks once every time. Do I need to get the Digimax controller to unlock it and read the faults? Any help would be most appreciated. I've plenty of pictures.
 

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As a hvac tech get a manual and follow the sequence of operation. Are you getting power to the blower motor? Turn the thermostat up and put a large screwdriver on the heater and see if its making any noise when you put your ear on the handle of the screwdriver. Normally there is a pressure switch to prove it has air flow before advancing to the next sequence of operation. If the pressure switch is stuck closed at startup it may also stop the sequence disconnect the switch and then turn the thermostat up if it comes alive connect the switch and see if it fires up?
 
I just looked at the manual check all connections good it will lock out with improper voltage. Under 10 volts or over 15 volts. You can get the 7 day timer it can pull the fault codes.
 
Thankskimcrwbr.

I have checked voltage the control board and am good to go there. I have amulti-max f1000 but it has no LCD display and I've really no idea what theblinking lights mean. The manual is WORTHLESS in describing what the sequencesshould mean. I’ve been told I can use the SD card in my computer to read thefaults, but I can’t find where in the software. The four windows are all forprogramming starts and stops, etc. Nowhere do I see a description of the mostrecent codes. I’ve actually now ordered a digi-max d1000 because it has ascreen and will hopefully be more instructive on unlocking and displayingfaults. The Espar parts of Michigan sales rep says the digi-max will work onthe hydronic systems. I’m sure it’s a simple issue like glow plug or something,but the diagnostic process has been a pain. Below is the startup sequence fromthe manual, I’m not getting past the control unit systems check. Any idea whatthe initial ‘click’ sound is –


Once switched on, the following sequence occurs:
• Control unit does a systems check ( flame sensor,
temperature, safety thermal sensor and various other
control unit checks).
• Water pump starts circulating coolant fluid.
• Combustion air blower starts.
• Glow pin begins to preheat 20-30 secs.
• After about 20-30 seconds the Fuel Metering Pumpstarts
delivering fuel and the combustion air blower ramps upgradually.
• Once ignition takes place the flame sensor alertsthe
control unit and the control unit shuts off the glowpin
(ignition time: 1.5 - 2 minutes).
Note: If the heater fails to start the first time itwill
automatically attempt a second start. If
unsuccessful the heater will shut down completely.
Note: On initial start up the heater may requireseveral
start attempts to self prime thefuel system.
 
Until the experts chime in maybe pull the thermal temp cutout and test it for proper operation its not passing the system tests start testing individual components. Just because the previous owner said it worked if you have not seen it work it means little.
 
As a hvac tech get a manual and follow the sequence of operation. Are you getting power to the blower motor? Turn the thermostat up and put a large screwdriver on the heater and see if its making any noise when you put your ear on the handle of the screwdriver. Normally there is a pressure switch to prove it has air flow before advancing to the next sequence of operation. If the pressure switch is stuck closed at startup it may also stop the sequence disconnect the switch and then turn the thermostat up if it comes alive connect the switch and see if it fires up?

As an ex espar tech of twenty years, be advised hvac guys, these are very different than house furnaces . No pressure switches. It is all electronic resistance based tests by the ecu. It is almost impossible to diagnose this model without espar diagnostic tools.
 
Brian silk here. Previously running avalon bay marine in vancouver. Just wanted to let everyone know that ive been out of the business for a year now. Moved to 100 mile house B.C.. ive been absent on the forum but never made it official. I will not be monitering the forum and my old email will be gone very soon. If you need assistance call the tech help line at Espar canada, espar od michigan, or in vancouver call Roton industries. Be carefull of the advise you get here unless it is from someone with direct knowledge of espar. The reason I joined in the first place was because of the bad information given out. All the best to you. Sorry for leaving
 
Yea just like i thought they are similar to the new tankless hot water heaters. They do not want joe blow working on them and that is understandable. If you feel comfortable just take it apart and give it a complete service alot of times the issue will be obvious. Poor maintenance or installationis 90% the cause of unit failures. Make sure there is no restriction in combustion and exhaust air? Just give it a complete once over before you call a tech rep if necessary.
 
I just wanted to put it out here that I can give service advise on ESPAR brand heaters. I have been an Espar Marine tech for 16 years and know them inside out. You can message me privately if you wish. I will check the General forum regularily.

Hi Brian,
I have an old D7L. I'm not very experienced with these machines. Yesterday I pulled the glow plug, noted that it was dirty and put one in from the spares on board, not new but looking good. The engine started fine after that. (still warm from previous run though).
Today I tried to start it and it failed 4 times to start. I pulled the glow plug again and noted that it was wet with diesel. I left it open to dry out, (forgetting that diesel doesn't evaporate like gas) and put a new plug in this evening. It started right up but quickly overheated, evident by the temperature of the exhaust pipe at the unit, and shot sparks and flames out the exhaust pipe overboard. I shut it down and of course realized that I had a burner fire due to excess fuel pooled therein. My question to you is, how should I go about removing the excess fuel in the can before I try another start?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Keith
 
Great,
Just thought I would post this here for a reference.
This is from their web site:
For technical support, contact us via email at
[email protected] or by phone at 1-800-387-4800 ext. 2299.
Or
Mississauga, Ontario L5T 2B2
Phone: 905-670-0960
 
i am going to install a new Airtronic D4 on my 30' powerboat, but I am unsure of the best place to mount the unit. I have loads of room in my engine bay but have gassers so no go.
I ideally I would like to install under my salon floor which is a waterproof bulkhead way from the engine compartment. this area houses all the boat systems including electrical, holding and fuel tanks. I have plenty of room to install without being near the fuel tank and separate diesel tank i will install for heater. intake and exhaust routing would be easy and ducting would be so easy.

just not sure about installing in same compartment as fuel tank, even though they are vented properly....
 
Espar fuse blowing.jpg

We have a Espar D7L on our trawler. I have two questions, in order of importance:

1. There is a small "Volkswagon" type fuse mounted on the side of my Espar heater. The fuse mount says 8 Amps. This fuse keeps blowing after the unit runs for 15 minutes. Even with a 10 amp fuse. What should I do to correct this problem?

2. The wiring to the furnace from the house bank is 8 gauge to a bus bar close to the heater, then changes to 3 foot piece of wire that is either 10 or 12 gauge from the bus bar to the heater. Is this 10/12 ga. sufficient, or should we change the 3' section out to the larger 8 gauge? In the past, when voltage got lower the 30 amp fuse would blow.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. This is my first posting on this forum. I am thankful for it.

My best,

Sam Nigro
(360) 600-2202
 
I have an Espar D5LC installed in my sailboat that has been working fine up until yesterday. When I turn it on nothing at all happens, no fan motor starts, nothing. I have an old controller, (not digital) that shows green flashing error code. Looked in manual and it says overheat check blocked vents.
No vents blocked. I removed unit, cleaned, checked and cleaned glow plug, checked and replaced 25 amp fuse. Still nothing. Any ideas?
 
M
I have an Espar D5LC installed in my sailboat that has been working fine up until yesterday. When I turn it on nothing at all happens, no fan motor starts, nothing. I have an old controller, (not digital) that shows green flashing error code. Looked in manual and it says overheat check blocked vents.
No vents blocked. I removed unit, cleaned, checked and cleaned glow plug, checked and replaced 25 amp fuse. Still nothing. Any ideas?
Hi Don.
did you check both the intake combustion air and the intake ventilation air? Other than that I can’t think of anything. My Espar didn’t have that warning light. I eventually threw my espar away and bought a Planar. It’s the same dimensions and fits right into the same place using the same intake, exhaust and ventilation infrastructure but for about half the price. Best of luck!
 
Hello,
I have liveaboard customers with a recently serviced D8LC, service performed by a very reputable shop, however they are over the border. After service it was operational without issue for weeks as their main heat source. Customers reported that it suddenly just stopped working. Lights at the controller indicate the unit is operational however there is no response at the unit whatsoever, no fans or fuel pump.

As far as I can tell voltage is everywhere it should be and the controller is operational. The unit is not particularly accessible, any service within the unit itself will require it to be removed fully, even to remove the access plate. The fuel pump and wire harness is accessible.

I found a troubleshooting guide for a similar model that suggests, based on what I have found, the problem may be with the ECM. My gut feeling is the problem is with power supply, but it seems all good. At this point I am about to pull the unit down and have a look, I would very much like to avoid it if possible though.

Any advice is appreciated, thank you,
Mitch
 
Brian,

i have an older (I think) D5L C

i changed the Racor filter and did my best to fill it, but I obviously left air in the system because the system would not start up. The fan came on and I could hear the pump clicking. I cycled the power at the thermostat a few times thinking that this would bleed out the air. I believe that I’ve locked out the system. I found your instructions in an earlier post... power off, jump terminals 9 and 11 on the ecu, then power on. Remove jumper after the unit starts up. I tried this a few times without success. Checked fuses all good.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
SOLUTION

Did more troubleshooting and found that the input voltage was just over 15 volts. Apparently, these heaters have a high voltage cut out that prevents startup when the voltage hits that level. I disconnected the shore power and the heater started up.
Bleeding the air out took a little time, but disconnecting the fuel pump wires and manually applying power did the trick.
Time now to check out the high charge rate...
 
Hi Brian!
I have seen that you have knowlage on Eberspächer D5LC, I have a strange fault during start attempt!
It was working last spring 2020 and was not used until I tried it last December (2020) no light up! (Decarb done about 50hrs)

It's a D5LC 12 V (25 1861 01) from 1998 with a 7 day timer/modulator (401 00 191) with (indoor) temp sensor, (no diagnostic).

When starting it turns slower than normal, after 20-40 secunds fuel pump start "ticking" and diesel flow visable in the 1,5 mm transparent tube (small air bubbles).
At this time only ~4 A on the charger Amp meter, 14,2 Volt. This indicate that glow plug is not "ON"
At the exhaust there is a smell of unburnt fuel. and I turn off the heating "mode" before logging any fault, and it goes into "ventilation" mode (4 min), and the RPM increases but not to full!

Perf soo far;
Glow plug has 0.6 Ohm measured from the Current regulator plug, bench tested with 13,2 V in and 12.08V out, without load.
All conectors free from corosion
Flame sensor 1016 Ohm at control unit, Safety thermal switch Ok
The two resistors on PCB 12 ohm and 1,5 ohm is checked Ok
Control unit, Current regulator, PCB checked for corosion Ok.
Do you have any experiance with this kind of fault? Could you give a hint what would be your next step?

With Best Reg
Peter
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I just wanted to put it out here that I can give service advise on ESPAR brand heaters. I have been an Espar Marine tech for 16 years and know them inside out. You can message me privately if you wish. I will check the General forum regularily.
Hi Brian. My name is Bill Howell. I have a lot of air bubbles in my fuel line, I have no idea how they got there or how to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated. My email address is [email protected]. my cell number is 1-541-218-6278.
 
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