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Special Tools 1969 Evinrude 33 Ski Twin

Hi all,

Been awhile since I've been on the Forum. I acquired a 1969 Evinrude 33HP Ski Twin. Model # 33952A. Short Shaft, Electric Start.

I was also able to obtain the Factory Repair manual and Parts Listing. The Lower Unit needs a reseal. I have the seal parts kit and other parts needed in hand. Was able to get all parts taken apart W/O any Frozen hardware issues. Here's my Problem.

Special Tools (REMOVAL):

# 304514 - Bushing Punch for the Drive shift Rod bushing, washer and "O" ring removal.

#'s 378445 and 308093 - Drive shaft thrust bearing and pinion removal tools

#'s 377565 and 301927 - Oil retainer from top of gear case removal tools

#301196 - Upper gear case bearing removal tool

Special Tools (INSTALLATION):

#"s 378737 and 308099 - Upper pinion bearing driver and collar

#308098 - lower pinion bearing in upper gear case tool

#304515 - bushing mandrel for the Drive shift Rod bushing, washer and "O" ring install

#'s 378737 and 309915 - Upper gear case bearing installation tools

# 308103 - oil retainer installation tool

Has anyone out there done the reseal on this type lower unit before and if so can you tell me what "Work around" tools you used or fabricated. The shift rod tools look like they are just steel rods. If I know the diameter of them these I could fabricate them. The upper seal I can Tap in with an impact socket.

The other items are my major concern. Once I fabricate these tools they will also Aid me in resealing the two 1964 40HP Big Twins I have here.

Any Help would be appricated. One of the screw holes for the waterpump housing is stripped out. Found another gearcase housing and it is inbound. Was not to sure about putting a heilcoil in this one.

Does anyone know of a Member or Company that I could sent the lower unit to to have this reseal done if I cannot get the tools required to do this? Thanks in Advance.. Brian...:)
 
I do not think you have to buy any special tools to repair one of those motors.----------------Post your location as one of your " neighbors " might be able to help.
 
I'm located in Atlantic Beach (Jacksonville) Florida.

I put about 24 miles over 2 hours on the motor on the first outing. Kept an eye on the water discharge the whole trip both at speed and idling in the No Wake Zones. Only time I did not check is when I putted back into the Dock. That was about three minuets of idle time. Got home and put the engine in the tub, fired her up and no water out of the exhaust.

Pulled the lower unit and opened up the pump. Housing and impeller condition were fine but the inside of the pump housing was slick with a white milky / oily substance. Lower unit oil that I had just replaced (which was black and showed no signs of water intrusion) now was a light brown with no signs of water intrusion. I did use Type "C" Lube.

Pressure check showed leakage from the shift rod seal and below the water pump at the drive shaft.

Link to parts breakdown :

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase+Group

Two tools are used to remove and install the 3 parts for the shift rod seal. Items 18, 19 and 20 which are mid section of the gear case. They look to be just 2 different diameter rods. One to punch them out and one to set the new parts back in place. As for the stack on the drive shaft under the water pump items 28, 29, 30 and 31, a bearing puller tool is needed to remove item 31 to access the other three. As per the OMC Shop manual, item 31 (lower bearing race) will need to be replace "as the thin steel case housing the 16 needles are housed in will be damaged upon removal". Have this part inbound.

Gearset teeth look fine (all three). Rear bearing looks fine but I am going to replace it anyway. FYI. It is a Timken 12580 bearing Assy. Was actually used in a 1956-1957 Lincoln Mark II.

Only thing that shows wear on the propshaft stack is item 38 (CRADLE, CLUTCH DOG) which I have inbound.

I retired from the NAVY in 1997. Was an Avionics Tech on both Fixed Wing Jets and Helicopters. New job after retiring was an Auto Repair Mechanic. (Finally got my hands Dirty) In 6 years worked myself up to an ASE Master Mechanic. Built quite a Tool Box during that time. I have several OTC, Mac and Snap On bearing pullers / installers ranging from AC Compressors to Full size rear Axle Bearings and Ball Joints. Also a press stand which uses bottle jack and adjustable mount for height . None of these will do the Job removing / item 31. The correct deepwell impact socket and the press stand I feel will install the new one. The upper seal item 12 can be removed by drilling and installing 2 tap screws and connecting them to a mini slide hammer or just using a seal puller tool. Can be pressed back in again with the correct socket and press stand.

Now just beaacuse I'm a former Master Auto Machanic. (Back went out:mad:. Working on NAVY Avionics again as a Contractor at the Local Mayport Naval Base on the SH60B and new MH60R Sikorsky Helicopters) does not mean my "thinking" on Fabricating tools stated abouve will work in the Marine Outboard Engine World.

If I am wrong in any of my Thoughts above, Please those of you in the know set me straight and on the Right Course.

I want to fix this Right the First Time...:)

Also, just though about one other problem I found. Three screws hold down the water pump housing. 1 small and 2 are larger. One of the larger thread holes in the gearcase housing I found Stripped with the screw I believe Scotch welded into it. The bore of the hole is smooth with no threads what so ever. Could this be heilcoiled? (if the diameter of the hole is not too blown). Have not Miked it out yet to fit a heilcoil. Was not sure so I found another gearcase on the Bay and it is also inbound.

Thanks Again All. Brian...
 
You can replace the shift rod o-ring without removing the bushing.---------- I have done this !!!----------For most folks it is easy to run a 5/16" -NC tap in there for 3 threads and pull it out with a bolt.---------Then again you can use the factory tool.--------------I have used all 3 methods and no problems.------------No need to use Type-C oil in that gearcase.-----------Just drill out the waterpump screw and use the next size bolt up ( # 12-NC )
 
HI racerone and Thank You for your Reply. So to keep me on the same page I, (I'm Polish) :rolleyes:, Tap the o-ring with three turns and then screw in a bolt to grab it and pull it out.

Press the new o-ring back in with ??? Manual does not state to "Oil it" first. Oil it or press it in Dry?

Something I forgot to ask. The Stack under the water pump accessed from the bottom side of the gear case. Items :

28 - WASHER, PINION, UPPER
29 - BEARING, THRUST, PINION
30 - WASHER, PINION, LOWER

Are any of these actually Seals? I know item 12 in the base of the water pump section in the gear case is. If this is the only seal Keeping the Oil In and Water Out then there is no need to tear apart the lower stack. Is my thinking on drilling 2 holes, inserting tap screws and use a small slide hammer to remove it pan out or just use a standard seal puller and pry it out?

I will Tap out that hole to a # 12 if the diameter of the blown hole in the gear case is not too enlarged. If this works looks like I have a spear gear case inbound. (Spares are a Good Thing):D

Last question Sir. You mentioned, "No need to use Type-C oil in that gearcase".

Your reason for that? I ask because the Factory OMC repair manual I have states to use Type "C".
Some Pictures of Das Whaler :

100_2755 (Large) (Medium).jpg100_2756 (Large) (Medium).jpg100_2758 (Large) (Medium).jpg100_2760 (Large) (Medium).jpg100_2763 (Large) (Medium).jpg
100_2764 (Large) (Medium).jpg

Links to the two Videos I made on her First Voyage. :



The second video I was still adjusting the Tilt Pin. Was still a Bit to high up Hence the Chopping. Boat was delivered from NY with the pin set Full Out. The first Take Off I thought I was in the last Space Shuttle Launch. Turns out the second hole is the Sweet Spot.

Thank You Again for the Help...:)
 
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Those 3 parts are bearings !!---------------No need to use type C oil in that unit at all.-----------------Type C was specified as a MUST USE for electric shift.--------You pull the bushing out and install a new o-ring ( splash of oil on it ) then but the bushing back in.
 
Wow...Cable Steering! We just sold our 13 foot whaler that we had owned for 25 years...the motor was a 1962 evinrude 40 and the transom pin was adjusted out 1 click from the bottom...a great boat and motor but the manual start and rough ride were getting a little hard on our 1945 bodies...best of luck!
 
semi_retired You got comfortable working for the Govt.!! where all special tools were supplied,If you bought every special tool for the motors you'd be broke and couldnt buy parts!!;)
Take your time get creative like racerone says use a tap,a long punch,prybar.on lots of seals I started using a rotary tool and just cut them in two places.Might take abit longer but its better than the cost if you can even find some of those special tools.Good luck!
 
Those 3 parts are bearings !!---------------No need to use type C oil in that unit at all.-----------------Type C was specified as a MUST USE for electric shift.--------You pull the bushing out and install a new o-ring ( splash of oil on it ) then but the bushing back in.

Got the Bushing out per your Advice. Thank you. Have a new bushing inbound with all other seals so going to wait on it. Seal under the water pump lost the battle with a # 1000 Straight slot screwdriver. Seal in the prop shaft cover no longer lives in it's home Via a small punch in the two small holes.

Have not looked at the diameter of the Blown hole for the water pump yet. Next on the list. Another upper gearcase housing (in case) is also on the way. Since I'm waiting on parts as soon as the second gear case arrives, (first part to arrive) it, the original one (if I can oversize Tap that hole) the lover skeg and prop shaft cover that holds the o ring and pressed in seal are all going to a local shop to be sand blasted, (internals will be sealed) primed and repainted. These Guys can reproduce the original paint.

"Fix it right th first Time" Took a bit of time but my McGuiver "Mode" has kicked back in. :)
 
Wow...Cable Steering! We just sold our 13 foot whaler that we had owned for 25 years...the motor was a 1962 evinrude 40 and the transom pin was adjusted out 1 click from the bottom...a great boat and motor but the manual start and rough ride were getting a little hard on our 1945 bodies...best of luck!

This 69 was in storage for close to 30 years. Person I purchased it from estimates 100 to 120 hours on the motor. Going to do a compression check on it this weekend. The original plastic steering wheel was cracked at the Hub that slides onto the steering shaft. Found that Nice Stainless Steel replacement here :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOST...9122320QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

It too came from NY where the Whaler was. This Whaler only does it's time now on the San Pablo River. So not Too much of a Rough Ride for this Old Man.

One click out and it runs on rails. Two clicks out and she rides a little higher and more speed but cavitation will happen in a hard turn. Have not checked WOT RPM yet. From what I remember Way back when it sounds a bit high. Have two more prop's here with an extra 1/2 inch pitch. Will check on this next time she is back in the Water.

Yessss. Cable Steering.

I remember once as a young Lad who just replaced the cable and took my boat out. I had wound it Bass Ackwards on the Drum. Being the "Rebel W/O a Clue" back then I said to myself "Go For It" Took a bit to remember the reverse steering. Other boaters I passed Freaked out as I was passing them and saw me turn into them when the boat actually went in the other direction.

If you could master this it would be a great Safe Guard if anyone ever tried to Steal your Boat. :D
 
semi_retired You got comfortable working for the Govt.!! where all special tools were supplied,If you bought every special tool for the motors you'd be broke and couldnt buy parts!!;)
Take your time get creative like racerone says use a tap,a long punch,prybar.on lots of seals I started using a rotary tool and just cut them in two places.Might take abit longer but its better than the cost if you can even find some of those special tools.Good luck!

Thank You.

Yea I know. But when you work on a $33,000,000 Helicopter for the Government you use what "They" say on it.

Back in the saddle now with this. Just too awhile to get back into my "Backyard" Mechanic Mode.:)
 
Update on the Fix,

Two of the three screws that hold the water pump housing were already Drilled and re tapped. Unfortunately the Blown hole is one of the two that were already enlarged.

While cleaning up the upper section found out that the passage for the Weep hole was fully impacted from the hole to the open cavity. 5 inches of "Packed" in sediment ! ! ! Found another case on the Bay. This one has three good OEM holes. Put another order in for a new Pump housing and screws.

Since I have time on my hands I'm spending it sanding down the two halves, Priming and repainting.

There is a little meat left around the blown already up sized hole. Not enough to up size again but may be able to Tap and put a Heil coil in. If that pans out I have a spare upper case.

Slowly cleaning out that 5 inches of sediment. Now that I have the replacement case in hand I have a Road Map as to getting the Job done.

What are the "Ill Wills" of a plugged Weep hole? Seeing that there is no gasket between the Pump housing and the upper case cavity all this nasty oily byproducts may have invaded the pump housing, Slicked it up and caused the impeller not to pump water. Any Thoughts?

Seeing the age of the engine I should have torn this all down when I received the boat. Will know Better Next time. :)
 
These are simply " casting cavity drains "--------has to do with water collecting in there in freezing climates and cracking the casing, and nothing else !!!--------Has nothing to do with operation of the waterpump , none whatsoever !!
 
Thank you Sir. :)

Sanding is done. Priming and Painting this weekend on both lower unit parts.

Back to the Gear Oil. :rolleyes:

I looked in the Factory Manual for my two 1964 40 Big Twins and it also states "Type C" for both electric and Manual Shift models. My thinking is that this is a Thinner blend of oil. What is the designation of the lower unit oil that you recommend I put back into the gear case?

This is probably a thicker oil. By using this oil will it provide better "Wear" properties for the lower unit assembly?

Going to also Mike out the enlarged Blown hole in the original upper housing. If it will Tap and thread a heil coil in to fit the larger replacement screw what are your feelings on this procedure?

Hope to get her back in the water by the first of the month. The Help here on the Forum is Very Much Appreciated. :D
 
If you can drill it out for a helicoil (large hole),Why not drill and tap forget the heli. I have had bad experiences whit heli,s
 
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